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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys,
So I am getting some procomp coilovers saturday and I want to know what I have to do to install. Everybody tells me it is as simple as unbolting whats on there now and bolting up the coils. Is this right?

Here is my setup. I have the fabtech 6" stage 1 and I am getting the coilovers from a procomp 6" stage 2 kit. First question is will these fit? second question is what is the install process. once the wheels are off...lol then what haha?

Thanks guys, let me know what you can!!!
 

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It's really easy.. Parts of this should help:

How To install PRG Mini-Lift - Nissan Armada Forum: Armada & Infiniti QX56 Forums

Disconnecting the anti-sway bar end links was the toughest part. I had to take mine to a shop to have them use some industrial thread breaker with a huge breaker bar to loosen them then I drove home with them loose and did the rest by myself.

You can pickup PB Blaster, a 1/2" Breaker Bar for $25, and a Husky a 1/2" MM Hex Socket Set for like another $12 from Home Depot. You'll likely need it to break the Anti-Sway Bar loose, those 12-point or 24-point Socket Bits do not work, they'll round off the bolt heads.


Gotcha #1: Make sure to tie the Spindle in place with a Bungee Cord, Wire Coat Hanger, or something. If the spindle drops too low, the seal in your knuckle joint will break and you'll leak fluid. If this happens, you should be able to push the boot back together to reseal then have your fluids checked.



I used a Clothes Hanger to support my Spindle.... You'll want to remove the nut from the lower bolt but leave the bolt in place, then unbolt the TOP first and push down on the current coilover to slide the top out of the top hat, then slide out the lower bolt to remove it.. The install is just reverse, insert the lower bolt first leaving the nut off, push down on the new coilover to slide the top into the top hat, put on the lower nut, then attach the top into the coilbucket...

If you pick up a can of Rustoleum Bed Coating from Home Depot or wherever, you can spray touch up over any rusted parts while you're doing the install.

 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
your knowledge never ceases to amaze me! thanks a lot buddy some real good info!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
oh hey will this require a re-alignment?
 

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Not necessarily, but it never hurts... With all jacks and stands removed, measure both sides fender heights before and after the install... Also measure the distance between the center tread of your left and right tires on the front and back of the tires, that's your TOW alignment... If the fender heights are under 2" difference before and after and the Tow measurements are within 0.5" of before the install, you should be fine.. Camber is very visible by eye, you can stand about 10' behind the truck and stare alongside the outer edge of the rear tires and line up the front tires within view to eyeball the Camber (Tilt Angle) of the tires.
 

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Box them up, ship them to 85353 :)

Good luck with the install! Take pics! should be easy to install, 3 bolts up top, one on the bottom. than put the coilover in. take off the sway bar, tie rod ends, and uca from spindle. makes it all easier.
 

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So u don't make the same mistake I did. Torque the upper control arm ball joint per spec. The torque spec should be in the manual under front suspension. Or somehow mark the original position of the ball joint nut on the bolt before you take them off/loosen. What happened to me was I overtightened the nut and I ended up busting the ballpoint seal and grease started leaking. I am now planning on replacing both sides as I don't know how extensive the damage is.
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
One more thing I forgot to ask... How do I adjust them? I will be have the weird shaped wrenches but how to I know where zero is and how high to make them? How high can I set them?
 

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Has anybody ever used a ball joint separator (the threaded kind, not a pickle fork) instead of a hammer? If so, which one? I was looking at one at Harbor Freight, but it looked pretty fragile.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·

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Has anybody ever used a ball joint separator (the threaded kind, not a pickle fork) instead of a hammer? If so, which one? I was looking at one at Harbor Freight, but it looked pretty fragile.
I've always just used a hand sledge... For anything it doesn't get, I stick a pry bar or a 3/4" steel pipe in there and pound on it with the sledge... :dunno:
 
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