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Discussion Starter #1
I've been wanting to do this for awhile and finally did it on Saturday. I wanted to wait until I did some "real world driving" to see the impact before I posted up the thread and I have to say, so far, I'm impressed. I wish I had something other than the OEM gauge for exact numbers, but it's visibly different.

Normal, in town driving, the OEM gauge would run a little over half and now it's under half (just before the "gear")...where I was shocked was on the highway (60-70 MPH and it's about 80 degrees out) this morning into work. Before, it would always run halfway, but on my 30 minute trek down the highway it barely broke 1/4 of the way the whole time.

Anyway, on to what I did.

I purchased the Hayden Rapid Cool Transmission Cooler from my local Autozone and 10' of hose. I got the one that was made for vehicles that tow over 10k lbs, don't remember the exact model number but I believe it was this one:

Compressor Works/Transmission Oil Cooler (911678) | AutoZone.com

For the install because it is a little large, I had to be a little creative.

1. Removed the grill, horn, and front fan to give me a little room to move.
2. I was able to slide it in and mount it to the back side of the bar that the lower part of the grill clips into using wire ties, so essentially, it would sit between the fan and the AC
3. Removed the assembly on the passenger side of the radiator that runs from the lower portion of the radiator up into the OEM cooler
4. The metal tube that runs up the passenger side of the radiator, I wanted to reuse on the drivers side since it's no longer needed and I don't want the rubber transmission line getting crushed, so I slid it up along the drivers side of the radiator in between the radiator and the plastic casing. Make sure you cover the ends because you don't want dirt getting in the tube.
5. I cut a new length of tube to run from the transmission outlet to the bottom part of the metal tube I just slid up the side of the radiator and fastened it together.
6. The Hayden cooler has larger inlets than the OEM tube so I used the larger tube that came with the kit to run from the top of the metal tube on the drivers side into the transmission cooler.
7. I then ran the larger tube from the outlet on the Hayden into the OEM Transmission cooler.
8. From there, everything else remains the same.
9. Tightened everything down and reinstalled the fan and the horns
10. Capped the inlet and outlet on the bottom of the radiator and started the truck to check for leaks
11. Reinstalled the grill and went for a cruise :thumbsup:

Here are a couple pics that I took:

This is where the cooler is installed


This is the inlet on the drivers side, you can see the top of the metal tube that I reused from the passengers side of the radiator


This is the tube from the outlet on the Hayden into the OEM Transmission cooler


Here is the underside of the truck. I didn't think to snap the pictures until after I soaked the bottom with Simple Green and hosed it off :lol:



Unfortunately, I didn't take pictures all the way through the process, but if any of the steps are unclear, feel free to hit me up.
 

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Was this because you thought it was needed or because of the past radiator failures?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Was this because you thought it was needed or because of the past radiator failures?
Past radiator failures...plus I saw a couple fresh drips of transmission fluid on the lower radiator shroud and don't know if something happened to the new CSF I just put in a couple thousand miles ago.

Even if it wasn't, I wasn't taking the chance of blowing another one. Part of me thinks that for some reason, my transmission fluid pressure is up. Robkar mentioned that the BD Performance Tune increases the pressure, but I haven't had the BDGT on in over 10k miles, so maybe when you go back to stock it doesn't reset that setting? :dunno:

Either way, the decreased temps are never a bad thing.
 

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What was the cost for this? I'm going to install my CSF in a couple of weeks and am considering doing this while I do the radiator install?
 

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What was the cost for this? I'm going to install my CSF in a couple of weeks and am considering doing this while I do the radiator install?
The cooler was $60 and 10 feet of hose was just under $20, and that should be enough for you to do this and replace all lines. If you want to do it, it would definitely be easier when you have the whole front end apart anyway.
 

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I'm going to bookmark this page. Thanx bills.
 

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I am getting some kind of leak myself. Not major, but cant really tell what it is. I took off my skid plate/pan and cleaned the lower front of my motor yesterday. First...Is it ok to run a while without this pan (mostly highway/secondary roads)?

I am seriously considering ordering the CST and a cooler, maybe this one. Can you post more pics of your cooling setup? Maybe with flags for I.D.? I am quite experienced mechanically, but have spent very little time with a Titan, any help would be greatly appreciated.

I am looking for longevity and a little more power/economy. DTLT are in my near future, with UPREV. I plan on putting 250-300k miles on this thing in the next 4 years, I average ~60k/year now. I may decide to buy a mileage whore and save the T, but that will eliminate mod money.

Thoughts. (BTW, unintentional hijack, please feel free to answer coolant relevant questions here, and any other advice via PM)

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I am getting some kind of leak myself. Not major, but cant really tell what it is. I took off my skid plate/pan and cleaned the lower front of my motor yesterday. First...Is it ok to run a while without this pan (mostly highway/secondary roads)?
It's fine to run without the skid plate. Not sure if you've seen the threads with the issues around cooling that I've had, but I'm on my third radiator in 10k miles. When the second one cracked it was similar to the what you're describing. It was a slow leak of transmission fluid that was getting splattered on the underside of the truck. When I pulled the radiator, the whole bottom corner of the fins in the front of the radiator was covered in transmission fluid.

I am seriously considering ordering the CST and a cooler, maybe this one. Can you post more pics of your cooling setup? Maybe with flags for I.D.? I am quite experienced mechanically, but have spent very little time with a Titan, any help would be greatly appreciated.
I can take some more pics later and tag them, but for the radiator replacement itself, there is a great thread on here that was what I followed on here when I replaced the first radiator.

I'm now running the CSF radiator and bypassed the lower portion for transmission fluid and it's being routed through this new cooler instead.

I am looking for longevity and a little more power/economy. DTLT are in my near future, with UPREV. I plan on putting 250-300k miles on this thing in the next 4 years, I average ~60k/year now. I may decide to buy a mileage whore and save the T, but that will eliminate mod money.

Thoughts. (BTW, unintentional hijack, please feel free to answer coolant relevant questions here, and any other advice via PM)

Thanks!
I'm in the same boat, I want to run this truck for a long time...I'm looking to have it paid off soon and once it is, it'll be used for towing my boat and weekend use. I'll probably buy a 370 for everyday use.
 

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I just finished this mod about a week ago, with the Hayden Rapid-cool 679.. I just got done towing a 6000 pound boat to and from Lake Havasu, from LA... The hottest my transmission ever got was 150* while going up the Cajon Pass on the I15, doing 65mph the whole way up. (BDGT specs)

Last year during the same trip, I was seeing temps in excess of 180* while climbing this grade.

The only difference in my install vs yours is that I ran mine in series with the coolers already on the truck instead of bypassing it. What are the cons & pros of having it my way vs yours?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I just finished this mod about a week ago, with the Hayden Rapid-cool 679.. I just got done towing a 6000 pound boat to and from Lake Havasu, from LA... The hottest my transmission ever got was 150* while going up the Cajon Pass on the I15, doing 65mph the whole way up. (BDGT specs)

Last year during the same trip, I was seeing temps in excess of 180* while climbing this grade.

The only difference in my install vs yours is that I ran mine in series with the coolers already on the truck instead of bypassing it. What are the cons & pros of having it my way vs yours?
I kept the OEM transmission cooler so the pro with doing it your way would be keeping a third cooler being the radiator.

The con would be my main reason for doing it like this and that's running it through the radiator. I didn't want my transmission fluid running through the radiator any longer because of all the issues I've had.
 

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Nice Mod Bill! Look's to be a little bit larger than the cooler i have:

Long Tru-Cool LPD Cooler SR4588
Medium Duty Driving, full size cars
GVW Rating - 19,000 lbs.
BTU Rating - 14,400 btu.
11/32" Hose Barb
 
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Discussion Starter #14
Nice Mod Bill! Look's to be a little bit larger than the cooler i have:

Long Tru-Cool LPD Cooler SR4588
Medium Duty Driving, full size cars
GVW Rating - 19,000 lbs.
BTU Rating - 14,400 btu.
11/32" Hose Barb
Thanks man, it was a tight fit getting it behind the bar...I got a little nervous at first, but after I removed the fan, I was able to get it in from the bottom.
 

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I wonder if there will be an issue with this setup in cold weather? Not for Delray Beach but for colder weather areas.
 

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I wonder if there will be an issue with this setup in cold weather? Not for Delray Beach but for colder weather areas.
Not sure why there would be, just keep the temps even cooler...just replacing the radiator cooling mechanism with another...
 

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I wonder if there will be an issue with this setup in cold weather? Not for Delray Beach but for colder weather areas.
Not sure why there would be, just keep the temps even cooler...just replacing the radiator cooling mechanism with another...
If anything, I think it would take a few minutes longer to warm up the trans in the winter time. The hot water from the engine block warms up the radiator thus warms up the trans more quickly if using the trans cooler in the radiator. My logic is the entire radiator warms up faster this way.

Thats just my thinking process, I could way off though so correct if I am.
 

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If anything, I think it would take a few minutes longer to warm up the trans in the winter time. The hot water from the engine block warms up the radiator thus warms up the trans more quickly if using the trans cooler in the radiator. My logic is the entire radiator warms up faster this way.

Thats just my thinking process, I could way off though so correct if I am.
My thoughts also. I'm no transmission expert. I'm just wondering if the transmission fluid can be too cold.
 

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My thoughts also. I'm no transmission expert. I'm just wondering if the transmission fluid can be too cold.
Exactly my thoughts.

But for us up north, it could be. I'm thinking that if its too cold then moister could build up in the fluid? And, what about the clutches engaging. How does it affect them as well if too cold.

For you all-around summer folks external coolers shouldn't be an issue.

For us northern folks I believe there is external trans cooler with a temp valve that will keep the trans around 150F~170f.
 

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Exactly my thoughts.

But for us up north, it could be. I'm thinking that if its too cold then moister could build up in the fluid? And, what about the clutches engaging. How does it affect them as well if too cold.

For you all-around summer folks external coolers shouldn't be an issue.

For us northern folks I believe there is external trans cooler with a temp valve that will keep the trans around 150F~170f.
That's my situation.
 
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