RC 3" Lift - Simple job turned in a nightmare

6175 Views 31 Replies 13 Participants Last post by AZPRO4X, Oct 20, 2011

mkw87

Discussion Starter · Feb 21, 2011 (Edited)

2

I put a 3" rough country lift on my 2010 Titan Pro4x 4x4 this weekend, what a nightmare that ended up being.

Things I learned:
1) Make sure you have a 19mm box end wrench
2) It's a good idea to own a tap set
3) The kit gave me ~3 1/4" of lift at the fender flare

Measurements Before / After:
-Fender height: 37 1/8" / 40 3/8"
-Front bumper: 31 3/4" / 35 1/2"

For starters, 3 out of the 6 grease zerks would not thread into the threads they cut. I ended up having to clean them up with a tap to get the zerks in properly. While that took time, it wasn't near the problem I ran into later.

The next problem I had was getting the driver's side rear UCA bolt broken loose. I got an impact gun on the front one and broke it loose fine, but there is too much stuff in the way of the rear one (steering column, brake line coils, etc) and ended up using a 3/8" drive breaker bar and a lot of elbow grease to get it broke loose.

After that was done, getting the lift in was no problem. All the hardware was there, the parts seemed of good quality until it came time to torque the spacers into the coil bucket. At this point I set my torque wrench to 25 ft-lbs and went around and hit all 3 to snug them evenly, then moved it to 35 ft-lbs (the lower end of the recommended 35-40 ft-lbs). I ended up breaking one of the studs, which greatly angered me and I almost took the kit off at this point. Instead, I went to Advanced and O-Reilly's but couldn't find anything comparable but a grade 8 bolt, and had to use that with a lock washer on top and bottom. Got it snugged in there finally. Drivers side took me about 6 hours including assembly of the UCA's, which ended up taking a while because I tried cleaning the threads without a tap set, ended up just buying a tap set because it was easier. Passenger side took about 1.5 hours.

Now I have a question for you guys as I look to buy rims and tires - what have people fit under this 3" lift? I am looking at xD Monster rims, 18" diameter with +18 offset and Nitto Terra's at 295/70/18. Has anyone done this or a larger setup without issue? I don't mind doing the PWM if necessary, but want to make sure I have the offset other clearances met properly before worrying about cutting plastic out of the way.

Also any recommendations on where to buy? www.rimzoneonline.com has great prices, anyone have anything good/bad to say about that site?

Before:

After:

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senecak19

· #2 · Feb 21, 2011

Anxious to see who chimes in. I've read somewhere the 295/70/R18 setup works with a Minilift and NO PWM. I haven't the slightest idea, but I'm watching as I look to do a similar arrangment.

Sorry to hear about your woes... sounds like hell. But look on the brightside... YOU GOT IT DONE!

mkw87

Discussion Starter · #3 · Feb 21, 2011

senecak19 said:
Anxious to see who chimes in. I've read somewhere the 295/70/R18 setup works with a Minilift and NO PWM. I haven't the slightest idea, but I'm watching as I look to do a similar arrangment.

Sorry to hear about your woes... sounds like hell. But look on the brightside... YOU GOT IT DONE!

Yeah, the passenger side was fun to do, the drivers side was not. Just really hard to get to the UCA bolts. Looking at how much it lifted it seems I could run 35's, might need to lift rear a little. Even if I had to get bilsteins I'd consider that to be able to run 35's.

stryker125

· #4 · Feb 21, 2011

35" will fit, there are a lot of guys including myself who are running 35" tires with just a 2.5" in the front. You will need to do the PWM though.

Reactions: 1

mkw87

Discussion Starter · #5 · Feb 21, 2011

stryker125 said:
35" will fit, there are a lot of guys including myself who are running 35" tires with just a 2.5" in the front. You will need to do the PWM though.

Thanks, I figured they would fit. I saw a white one on here that had 35's on stock rims. Is there any offset rim I can get to try to minimize cutting or is +18mm the best option? Also, any problems with torque converter lockup? This is a Pro4x so I have the BT gears.

grpape

· #6 · Feb 21, 2011

Just make sure your backspacing is close to stock (5.5"-5.71"), and you should be fine. If your backspacing is anywhere near 4.5" (like mine), break out the Sawzall and a BFH

and modify things till it fits. I'm trying to decide if I wanna do some cuttin' to fit 35"s or just some minor cuttin' for 315/70/17.

Reactions: 1

boardboy

· #7 · Feb 21, 2011

I had the same problem with the threads on my titan

RoyJl42

· #8 · Feb 21, 2011

took me about 35-45 mins both sides to do my 3" rc setup with uca's without an impact...i have the same truck as you so not sure why the difference. heres a pic of mine with 35/12.50 nitto trail grapps on 18" xd monsters 5.71 backspacing and +18mm offset. just word to the wise i had to do a lot of cutting and trimming in order for this to work and it still never really worked it would rub under turning and suspension articulation in the turn otherwise it was awesome look.

Land vehicle Vehicle Tire Car Automotive tire

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gusman

· #9 · Feb 21, 2011

i have the wheels youre talking about with 325/60-18s. get the 325s, theyre so wide and look so mean esp on the monsters. check my sig pic

mkw87

Discussion Starter · #10 · Feb 21, 2011 (Edited)

gusman said:
i have the wheels youre talking about with 325/60-18s. get the 325s, theyre so wide and look so mean esp on the monsters. check my sig pic

Yours looks awesome! How much cutting did you have to do, if any? I don't mind doing a little, or even a lot, but I don't want to get too creative.

Also, do you guys order a spare one for the spare if you go 35's? Will a 35" even fit under the bed? Carry fix-a-flat? Pray to not get a flat? Just wondering.

Here is a pic of it in the driveway:

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dwoelper

· #11 · Feb 22, 2011

mkw87;2332689 For starters said:
To loosen those stupid bolts on the UCA i used the link the old link two box end wrenches together trick and a pipe on a ratchet for added leverage and everything broke pretty easy. I also soaked the bolts in PB blaster which most definitely helped. My grease fittings all went in easy i just had to clean the holes out a little with a wire brush. I just added 1.3" wheel adapters so that my 35s will clear on my stock wheels without a problem. Not 100% sure if they are necessary or not but i like my stock wheels better then most aftermarket ones and the spacers give it the cool offset look. Hope this helps a little.

-dave

Reactions: 1

Corbin

· #12 · Feb 22, 2011

dwoelper- do your have any pics with your wheels spacers installed? I'm interested to see how that looks.

honda250xtitan

· #13 · Feb 22, 2011

mkw87 said:
Also, do you guys order a spare one for the spare if you go 35's? Will a 35" even fit under the bed? Carry fix-a-flat? Pray to not get a flat? Just wondering.

Here is a pic of it in the driveway:

Truck looks good. I had a 325/60/18 (33/12.5/18) spare i would carry under the bed. It went up a little crooked, but if you tightened it up, it'd stay snug and you wouldnt be able to tell at all, except that it was a big f'ing tire under your bed.

Reactions: 1

dwoelper

· #14 · Feb 22, 2011

Heres a picture of the driver side. Sorry about quality its a cell phone pics.

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Reactions: 1

mkw87

Discussion Starter · #15 · Feb 22, 2011 (Edited)

Nice to know honda250xtitan, thanks.

RoyJl42 the rear bolt was just tight as ****. They all were, but with the steering knuckle where it was it was not easy to get a socket onto that bolt and get leverage on it. I didn't have a pipe, so used patience, hammer, persistence.

Here is an interesting one, I went to get it aligned today and the guy at the shop said I needed cam alignment bolts. I haven't seen anything regarding them being required for the RC level kit, so I called RC. The guy acted like I was an idiot and the guy at the shop was an idiot. Although he also said that none of those studs ever break too, and I know for fact that's a lie =/

Anyways, has anyone else who installed this required the cam alignment bolts? I don't mind buying them (38 $ per pair @ O'Reilly's, I assume I need 2 pair, 1 for each side right?), but don't want them if all I really need is a toe adjustment and that will fix the camber.

Also what size bump stops do I need? O'Reilly's has 2 1/8" ones, I assume I just install those or do I need to jack the wheel up and measure the distance then find ones that match that?

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Corbin

· #16 · Feb 22, 2011

Greg told me that he strongly advises to get cam bolts even with a level kit. I plan on getting cam bolts as well.

mkw87

Discussion Starter · #17 · Feb 22, 2011

Corbin said:
Greg told me that he strongly advises to get cam bolts even with a level kit. I plan on getting cam bolts as well.

Any idea if my assumption that I need two sets (4 bolts total) is correct?

ricepow

· #18 · Feb 22, 2011

http://www.titantalk.com/forums/tit...dict-nitto-trail-grappler-prg-ext-travel.html

RoyJl42

· #19 · Feb 23, 2011

mkw87 said:
Any idea if my assumption that I need two sets (4 bolts total) is correct?

just order them from prg 69 bucks i think and you get all four...its what i did...

mkw87

Discussion Starter · #20 · Feb 23, 2011

RoyJl42 said:
just order them from prg 69 bucks i think and you get all four...its what i did...

I looked on his site, didn't see them tho.

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