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Dubyam you’re mistaken LOLLLLL
I’m in the south myself you turd what I’m saying is there are DEFINITELY people in AMERICA-I DID INCLUDE NORTH DAKOTA!! That simply have never gone on an automotive forum in their life. They drive a Titan and their mechanic in BFE says they need headers they get headers and drive off into the sunset no tune. THAT is what I’m saying not some turned into hateful asinine comments but if that’s how you live your life, misconstruing simple sentences that’s fine.

BTW my heads never cracked so all that jargon about bits back in the cylinder save it.

So I take titan14s advice and don’t tune it, what happens?

SURELY THERE ARE TITANS IN THIS WORLD THAT HAVE HEADER INSTALL WITHOUT TUNE AND DROVE ANOTHER 100K WITHOUT ISSUE.
 

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What happens? Well, as i said above, there are some trucks (flex fuel) which dont end up too lean after headers. And the rest end up running lean to whatever degree. They make less power, and its hard on the motor. Many of those burn a valve, or a piston. Sure, there may be a small percentage which aren't flex, and run fine for 100k, just like there are a few people every year who get killed in a car wreck because they are trapped by a seat belt which won't come loose. Those are the rare exception, and the smart money is on the higher probability that it helps rather than hurts.

It's your truck, man. You run it however you want to. Tune or don't tune. Cats, or no cats. Burnt oil smell and all. Its your truck and your money. Some folks are lucky, and even a blind squirrel will find a nut every now and then.
 

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Thanks for the reply I was just curious. I haven’t really drove it much and have a new truck. I’ll probably be selling my T in the next 3 months so I’ll just let the new owner figure it out.
 

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Headers in place of stock manifolds and deleting the cats will not remotely make the truck run rich. Rich doesn't smell like a boat, either. Rich will smell like fuel, and have fairly thick black smoke and tailpipe deposits if it's strong enough to smell. If you're smelling something like a boat motor, you're likely burning some oil, and previously that smell was getting filtered out by your cats. Probably cause of burine oil is cylinder wall scoring from cracked manifolds drawing micro bits of your disintegrating cats back into the cylinders after they started failing from the rich condition in your exhaust due to the bad readings from the O2 sensors due to the crack.

The Titan doesn't always require tuning to avoid leaning out after headers, but just like a carb'd engine, it will run best when tuned. And most Titans need tuning to aboid running too lean. It's not true that the Titan will self-tune because it has O2 sensors. If that were the case, you could switch between alcohol and gasoline, or add turbos, superchargers, or whatever, and the truck would self-tune. But it won't. All the stock parts and stock programming have a range within which they will adjust, but it does not always (or even frequently) cover the proper tuning for a stock truck with headers added. Just like back in the day, when you added headers to your motor, you re-jetted the carb or swapped it out for one with more flow, you need to retina your Titan when you add headers to make the best power.

As for all the guys in the southern states, most of us know enough about motors to know you have to tune when you add headers. Your assumption of our ignorance is hateful and asinine. As for what happens to trucks which don't get tuned with headers, most of them very likely go along fine right up until they burn a valve or piston from the heat and lean condition, and the owners chalk it up to hard use rather than poor tuning.

You do whatever you want about your truck, and take Titan14's advice if you like. But don't be surprised if it costs you a whole lot more than $500 downrange.
I didnt say it will make it run rich. I said it will "smell" like its running rich. At least thats what I associate a car with no cats to smell like...a strong odor which resembles fuel smell. You do not need to have tailpipe deposits and a black smoke to smell like its running rich. This is from cat converter removal.

It does self tune with the O2 sensors, but within limits, of course. What you can or cant do safely without tuning depends on each specific manufacture, model and year and oem programming. Some cars have wider factory parameters to allow for this, others are more tight. You cant compare a carbed car, they didnt have computers adjusting the air/fuel ratio for you.

Rest assured there are many running headers with no tuning and no problems. If you are concerned with absolute maximum performance, drop your $750. I have nothing against uprev, I just think its not a good value.
 

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Dubyam you’re mistaken LOLLLLL
I’m in the south myself you turd what I’m saying is there are DEFINITELY people in AMERICA-I DID INCLUDE NORTH DAKOTA!! That simply have never gone on an automotive forum in their life. They drive a Titan and their mechanic in BFE says they need headers they get headers and drive off into the sunset no tune. THAT is what I’m saying not some turned into hateful asinine comments but if that’s how you live your life, misconstruing simple sentences that’s fine.

BTW my heads never cracked so all that jargon about bits back in the cylinder save it.

So I take titan14s advice and don’t tune it, what happens?

SURELY THERE ARE TITANS IN THIS WORLD THAT HAVE HEADER INSTALL WITHOUT TUNE AND DROVE ANOTHER 100K WITHOUT ISSUE.
Nissan used to sell headers themselves, Nismo branded. There was no mention of requiring "a tune" when buying these headers.
 

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Working my way down the list! Thanks for this thread.

Radiator is next up.

Also I’m concerned about doing too much with the transmission fluid. I’ve read horror stories


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If the tranny fluid needs changed, change it. If it doesnt, dont. If your not sure, change it. Forget horror stories.
 

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The guy said he did a service at 200k. That was 35k ago. Diff fluid was clean


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Back on the road! All the squeals and groans from toasted bearings and hubs gone. Now on to exhaust


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The guy said he did a service at 200k. That was 35k ago. Diff fluid was clean


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These days, with "lifetime" transmission fluid manufacture claims, I would change it at least every 100K miles based on a couple things, so if you trust the guy, you should be good. Its kind of hard to tell by looking at it ....wipe some on a paper towel....as long as it doesnt look really dirty and smell nasty, your probably fine
 

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This is a great write up and sorry if this is a dumb question but if you order the frozen rotors big brake kit, does it come with any special brackets for the calipers and bigger rotors or could i just go to a parts store and order 08 calipers, pads, rotors and bolt them right up on my 05?
 

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I have no idea, but am interested in why you want to do this. Do the factory brakes not stop you?
OEM brakes on earlier models weren't very good. Upgrading to the larger rotors helps. The downside is that that 17" wheels don't fit with the upgraded rotors.
 

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I have on 06', i admit the brakes aren't super, but they do the job. Girlfreind had an 04' Armada, no problems stopping that beast with OEM brakes either. Im of the opinion people would be better off upgrading other areas of their vehicles, and brake upgrades dont return a lot of value. As long as the wheels lock up, you aren't going to stop any faster with bigger brakes which do the same thing. Brake upgrades only make sense if you need to dissipate heat more quickly, like a track car doing a lot of braking, or maybe you are hauling heavy loads down mountains frequently. For day to day, normal use, waste of money.
 

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I think there’s a sticky post about upgrading to 08 brakes. Ive not found it incredibly necessary and I’m pulling a 5k lb boat with 5 passengers and gear too. They aren’t the best brakes ever though for sure.


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I have on 06', i admit the brakes aren't super, but they do the job. Girlfreind had an 04' Armada, no problems stopping that beast with OEM brakes either. Im of the opinion people would be better off upgrading other areas of their vehicles, and brake upgrades dont return a lot of value. As long as the wheels lock up, you aren't going to stop any faster with bigger brakes which do the same thing. Brake upgrades only make sense if you need to dissipate heat more quickly, like a track car doing a lot of braking, or maybe you are hauling heavy loads down mountains frequently. For day to day, normal use, waste of money.
That's the problem. I couldn't get my ABS to kick on at all trying to do a panic stop on dry pavement. In winter they would kick in, no problem. The ABS isn't the problem. It was like that the day I drove off the lot until I replaced the rotors and pads with aftermarket. That was a significant change. It would have been interesting to see what the larger aftermarket rotors could do.

I believe that the Armada brakes are larger than the Titan brakes. Instead of buying an aftermarket big brake kit you could get the Armada components. I could be wrong on this. A friend of mine has an '07 Armada and he said the part numbers between his Armada and my Titan were different. That could just be the parts store making stuff up.

From a safety standpoint, I think brakes are one of the best investments you can make, second only to tires.
 
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The armada brakes are identical. I just compared them to the titan, same model years. Of course brakes are important from a safety stand point. They have to work and be in serviceable condition. They don't have to be "upgraded"
 

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I have no idea, but am interested in why you want to do this. Do the factory brakes not stop you?
ive been hauling and towing alot lately and living in the pittsburgh area it is all hills, i can feel the brakes getting really soft/spongy when i had a bed full of mulch and flowers over the weekend, i didnt like that. figured the brakes were a weakpoint and if i was upgrading rotors and pads soon, and i could upgrade to the bigger 08+'s with just purchasing calipers on top of that then its worth looking into.

OEM brakes on earlier models weren't very good. Upgrading to the larger rotors helps. The downside is that that 17" wheels don't fit with the upgraded rotors.
i have an LE with 18's so i dont have to worry about that.

I think there’s a sticky post about upgrading to 08 brakes. Ive not found it incredibly necessary and I’m pulling a 5k lb boat with 5 passengers and gear too. They aren’t the best brakes ever though for sure.
cool, ill go look for that sticky now.

From a safety standpoint, I think brakes are one of the best investments you can make, second only to tires.
agreed, brakes and tires are two things i will always look at as a saftey standpoint and therefore its worth the extra couple bucks to get good stuff.

and im not one to worried about return on investment with vehicles. i bought this titan (05 with 49k miles) 3 months ago and plan to see the odometer roll 200k
plus my "fun car" would have never happened if i was worried about return on investment LOL
 

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ive been hauling and towing alot lately and living in the pittsburgh area it is all hills, i can feel the brakes getting really soft/spongy when i had a bed full of mulch and flowers over the weekend, i didnt like that. figured the brakes were a weakpoint and if i was upgrading rotors and pads soon, and i could upgrade to the bigger 08+'s with just purchasing calipers on top of that then its worth looking into.





i have an LE with 18's so i dont have to worry about that.





cool, ill go look for that sticky now.





agreed, brakes and tires are two things i will always look at as a saftey standpoint and therefore its worth the extra couple bucks to get good stuff.



and im not one to worried about return on investment with vehicles. i bought this titan (05 with 49k miles) 3 months ago and plan to see the odometer roll 200k

plus my "fun car" would have never happened if i was worried about return on investment LOL


An 05 with 49k??? Did you mean 149?


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