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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all. I have a 2011 Titan SV that I bought about two years ago. Having spent 10+ years going through snowy winters, much of it has rusted and needs replacement, the most urgent of which is the front suspension. I don't know much about mechanical repair, so I'm just hoping for some guidance. I'm possibly looking to buy Mevotech's kit with lower control arms, upper control arms, stabilizer bar end link / bushing, and tie rod ends. Based on the picture, is there anything else I should look into replacing? Given I'm don't have much mechanical experience I'll probably have to bring it to a shop to be professionally done (sadly), but I'd like to at least buy the parts to avoid that expensive markup, and just pay for the labor. I'd certainly prefer to do it myself, but with how much needs repair, and how I've read the rusted bolts can be a handful to remove, I probably lack the tools and expertise to do it myself this time. Thanks in advance for any help!
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How much mileage is on it?

Safe to assume swaybar bushings are in need of replacement. Get OEM. Avoid polyurethane. How are the wheel bearings? The brakes? Just because things are rusty doesn’t mean they’re tired.

Spray some penetrating oil on bolts first to help get things moving. Do not spray it in your pads or rotors or even calipers. They usually release easily. I mean swaybar bolts, endlinks, control arms, ball joints, etc.

I’m not sure about that brand you cited. Never heard of them. Might be great… might be trash.

If your objective is to set yourself up with a bunch of new parts, you might be very upset to find out the stuff you bought was garbage with a thin coat of paint.

Really what you should do is develop a relationship with a local garage with good history. Ask at a local parts supply that isn’t a chain (unless NAPA or equivalent) for a recommendation.

Then, knowing the price see if you can get them to work with you on it by asking if they ever install customer supplied parts.

You might be told no, or that the work isn’t guaranteed. But it may help by seeming to know what you’re doing… or not. They might even save you some dough by not doing work you don’t need.

Also I didn’t look but always go for premium listings on Rockauto. They’re cheap enough and these days “premium” might get you roughly OEM quality.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
How much mileage is on it?

Safe to assume swaybar bushings are in need of replacement. Get OEM. Avoid polyurethane. How are the wheel bearings? The brakes? Just because things are rusty doesn’t mean they’re tired.

Spray some penetrating oil on bolts first to help get things moving. Do not spray it in your pads or rotors or even calipers. They usually release easily. I mean swaybar bolts, endlinks, control arms, ball joints, etc.

I’m not sure about that brand you cited. Never heard of them. Might be great… might be trash.

If your objective is to set yourself up with a bunch of new parts, you might be very upset to find out the stuff you bought was garbage with a thin coat of paint.

Really what you should do is develop a relationship with a local garage with good history. Ask at a local parts supply that isn’t a chain (unless NAPA or equivalent) for a recommendation.

Then, knowing the price see if you can get them to work with you on it by asking if they ever install customer supplied parts.

You might be told no, or that the work isn’t guaranteed. But it may help by seeming to know what you’re doing… or not. They might even save you some dough by not doing work you don’t need.

Also I didn’t look but always go for premium listings on Rockauto. They’re cheap enough and these days “premium” might get you roughly OEM quality.
Just hit 120k miles. Brake pads still have plenty of miles left but rotors, calipers, and pads are next on the list for replacement. But good point, I should probably get a more in-depth check before I go buying a bunch of parts. There's definitely some rattling when going over bumps, and when I was at a shop for a different reason they said it needed to get looked at. You can't see it in the picture but the bottom of the LCA is closer to corroded than just rusted.
 

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welcome to the site!!

it really doesn't look horrible. it is for sure rusting but not like some people's pictures.
 

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That looks very familiar to me:(. When I bought my 2010 Titan in 2016, 101K miles, the front suspension was a rusted, crusty mess like yours. After a while I couldn’t stand looking at it. I’ve since gone through two iterations of suspension components. I started out with the Mevotech upper/lower control arms and Bilstein 5100 shocks/struts. I also had to replace the main front spindles due to rust and chunks missing in spots. It was ugly. I got the spindles from a local salvage yard. The price was cheap and they were in perfect condition. I painted the spindles with POR paint so they would stay black. I don’t do most of my work either. I helped two mobile mechanics do the new struts, springs and shocks in my driveway. Had to get all new nuts and bolts due to all the rust. All the parts we took out were just trash. I got the spindles, new hubs and control arms done at a local shop that doesn’t mind us bringing our own parts. There have been tons of other parts since that time too. Basically restoring/upgrading all of the systems. Getting close to the end I hope. Luckily parts aren’t expensive for our trucks. It’s worth doing. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
welcome to the site!!

it really doesn't look horrible. it is for sure rusting but not like some people's pictures.
Thank you! Glad mine's not the worst out there haha.

That looks very familiar to me:(. When I bought my 2010 Titan in 2016, 101K miles, the front suspension was a rusted, crusty mess like yours. After a while I couldn’t stand looking at it. I’ve since gone through two iterations of suspension components. I started out with the Mevotech upper/lower control arms and Bilstein 5100 shocks/struts. I also had to replace the main front spindles due to rust and chunks missing in spots. It was ugly. I got the spindles from a local salvage yard. The price was cheap and they were in perfect condition. I painted the spindles with POR paint so they would stay black. I don’t do most of my work either. I helped two mobile mechanics do the new struts, springs and shocks in my driveway. Had to get all new nuts and bolts due to all the rust. All the parts we took out were just trash. I got the spindles, new hubs and control arms done at a local shop that doesn’t mind us bringing our own parts. There have been tons of other parts since that time too. Basically restoring/upgrading all of the systems. Getting close to the end I hope. Luckily parts aren’t expensive for our trucks. It’s worth doing. Good luck.
Yeah, I can't stand looking at it, plus it's rattling which is quite annoying. I'm going to get a quote from a local shop soon and see if it's somewhat reasonable and go from there.
 

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I have a 2005 Titan SE RWD with over 200,000 miles and just replaced the front hub assemblies with Mevotech and front strut assemblies with FCS, both are standard replacement quality from Rock Auto. I have used Mevotech parts before. The build quality and packaging are very good imo. The FCS springs do not look the same as OE, there are more coils and thicker but all the other after market brands look the same as the FCS so I installed them. The ride is not the same. Front end bounces 2-3 times when I go over a bridge or dip in the road. The quality of the parts looked good and the packaging was very good. I know packaging has nothing to do with the parts but I am of the opinion that the company might care a little more about the customer when they go further to make sure their parts arrive in the same condition they left the factory. Or I could be wrong and it's just a marketing thing to make me think that they care.

Has anyone else had a problem with replacement shocks/springs for RWD replacements?
 

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First question is did you torque all the bolts with the front suspension hanging while on jack stands or did you get it sitting at ride height by putting weight on the suspension (either with a jack stand under the lower control arm or sitting on the tires on the ground)? If you torqued everything with it up in the air, you may have binding. If that doesn't solve it, I'd be contacting RockAuto about what qualifies for warranty return/replacement. Could be like what happened with my wife's 2017 Expedition with the OEM rear shocks. Truck got a little bouncy in the rear suspension early in its lifespan, and got worse over time. Ford wouldn't warranty the shocks because they weren't leaking. I ended up having to replace them myself. I went with KYB and did the spring swap in my shop at home. Once I got the springs off the OEM shocks, I could see what was wrong with them. The valving inside had either become clogged or blown out, because when you actuated the shock rod it compressed easily at first, then pushed back hard, in small increments. So I'd get a little compression, and the shock rod would rebound hard, then go soft into compression again, then rebound hard. Contrasting that with good shock behavior of a long, consistent compression force and a long, consistent and controlled rebound. Changing the rear shocks totally renewed her Expy.

Now, that said my guess is you're out the $75 or so each on the FCS shocks as a painful lesson not to buy chinesium shocks. For the Titan, it's tough to beat the Bilstein 5100s, but those aren't in everyone's budget and don't offer a pre-assembled option. If I had to go for a budget option, I'd strongly consider a known brand with a good track record like KYB, Gabriel, or Monroe, but reality is, you're going to spend what you would on a 5100 or nearly so, begging the question, why not just get the best for the truck? It's not terribly hard to swap the springs if you have a vise, but if you don't, find a local tire shop who will do it for cheap and go that route.
 
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