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Discussion Starter #1
So my RC lift has 6" blocks in the rear. These blocks actually use 4 u-bolts. 2 inner u-bolts connecting it to the axle and two outer u-bolts that go to the block. My question is how tight are the outer u bolts supposed to be? Are they there just as precaution to keep the leaf in line? I ask because I have a squeak and I feel like these are the culprit because if I loosen them, the squeak gets less audible. (About to throw the things in the scrap pile) lol

I've searched but can't find any info on these types of blocks




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is that to prevent axle warp? seems the outward U bolts compress the spring pack if tightened not allowing them flex...?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
is that to prevent axle warp? seems the outward U bolts compress the spring pack if tightened not allowing them flex...?


That's exactly what I was thinking. Seems they would be hindering the springs more then helping


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but on the other hand, that is a good leverage point for the axle to want to work the area around the axle tube with every on off of the gas.

I`d bet traction bars would help alot with stabilizing the rear axle.

then if it were possible. double nut the outboard U bolts. one above the plate and one below if threads allow. keeping them up a little, or less taught, if that rids your squeek...

not sure though if that negates RC`s way of lifting the axle safely...
 

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Discussion Starter #5
but on the other hand, that is a good leverage point for the axle to want to work the area around the axle tube with every on off of the gas.

I`d bet traction bars would help alot with stabilizing the rear axle.

then if it were possible. double nut the outboard U bolts. one above the plate and one below if threads allow. keeping them up a little, or less taught, if that rids your squeek...

not sure though if that negates RC`s way of lifting the axle safely...


That's a good point. That could be their way of using the leafs as a stabilization point. I recently installed traction bars so I'll try the nut on top to keep them more or less just hovering over the leafs vs resting on them.


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That's a good point. That could be their way of using the leafs as a stabilization point. I recently installed traction bars so I'll try the nut on top to keep them more or less just hovering over the leafs vs resting on them.


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my other concern would be, if those outers were "tight", couldn`t that be a weak point preventing the springs from working correctly and eventually cause them to crack.

I`ve seen springs broken within the pak and cracked between the axle tube and plate... weird sh-t...

could you swap out that block for another? and get rid of the bottom plate.

I guess the most the axle could articulate from play would be from the type of joints in the T bars...

I have heims on both ends, so it`s not going anywhere...
 

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I think you guys are on the right track, but those bolts need to be tight, if I understand RC's reason for the design. Having the outboard u-bolts will stiffen a length of the spring pack, reducing leverage at the leaf's center from the tall block, especially on start-stop, as you surmised, PR. That should reduce fatigue-breakage at the middle of the pack. The outboard U-bolts can't do that very effectively if they aren't tight. That design will also stiffen the ride a bit, but with the relatively short length between the outboard u-bolts, mid-pack, probably not by too much.

Seems an odd design to me, nonetheless...
 
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I think you guys are on the right track, but those bolts need to be tight, if I understand RC's reason for the design. Having the outboard u-bolts will stiffen a length of the spring pack, reducing leverage at the leaf's center from the tall block, especially on start-stop, as you surmised, PR. That should reduce fatigue-breakage at the middle of the pack. The outboard U-bolts can't do that very effectively if they aren't tight. That design will also stiffen the ride a bit, but with the relatively short length between the outboard u-bolts, mid-pack, probably not by too much.

Seems an odd design to me, nonetheless...
agreed yessssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssss.....

all of that...

he does have T bars to offset any twistage. but probably the best results come from changing out or adding to the spring pak to suit the correct height.
 

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Yep, Deaver C30's and a shorter block or changed spring pack would be better than a tall block, IMO.

But assuming the tall block needs to stay, OP, have you tried lubing the spring pack? There are a few threads on that (and some controversy about what works best, of course). If the squeak is from the U-bolt to spring pack contact point, you could try a very thin sheet of delrin cut to the width of the leaf and inserted under the U-bolt (which would then need to be retightened). Don't know how long that might last, but could be worth a shot.

Good luck!
 
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Discussion Starter #10
Well an update guys I figured it couldn't hurt to loosen them up all the way as I have the traction bars and axle wrap isn't a horrible concern.

ALL of my creak and squeak is gone. Truck rides 10 times smoother in the rear as well. I might just keep them loose and if I have an issue later down the line I'll re-tighten them. I have to say not having that creak after years of hearing it makes me so happy lol


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good deal... was gonna say.. I have them.. they are for axle wrap and breakage. def help with the wrap as i have no t bars, just a cst carrier drop bracket. the blocks are more pia than worth. got in the way of my airlift addbags, so had to offset brackets some. Ive used lithium grease to shut em up.
 
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