30k is about right to replace it, so I wouldn't say it's prematurely worn. It was just time. And this reminds me. I'm right at that mileage, so I'll put that on the short list of maintenance items. 
Serpentine Belt
I was wondering if anyone here has had to prematurely replace their serpentine belt? Mine started squealing at 30,000 miles (4 years) I replaced it this weekend and was shocked at how thin the belt is. It looks to be in perfect condition but I suspect it has stretched. My truck is a daily driver.
The replacement was straightforward, just move the tensioner out of the way with a 14mm socket and a breaker bar, remove the old belt, thread the new one on.
Cheers,
...Colin
www.flyinmaclean.com
The replacement was straightforward, just move the tensioner out of the way with a 14mm socket and a breaker bar, remove the old belt, thread the new one on.
Cheers,
...Colin
www.flyinmaclean.com
1 - 20 of 27 Posts
That seems premature to me... I have 62k on mine and not a peep. I think its scheduled at 90k? or is it 95?
Someone posted that they changed theirs for 'peace of mind' at 109k recently, and that it looked just fine!
It's only a $12 belt at the dealer. I bought a Gatorback a long time ago, just in case.
I guess I'm just conservative. Like TitanBlue says, it's 12 bucks. I'll be danged if I'm gonna let a 12 belt strand me.
Yea this is an old thread, but bringing it up just in case anyone searches for serpentine, like I did.
Anyways, My 2006 started squeeling (only when cold of course) at about 16,500 miles. I took it to the dealer the other day (17,600 miles) and got it replaced under warranty.
Anyways, My 2006 started squeeling (only when cold of course) at about 16,500 miles. I took it to the dealer the other day (17,600 miles) and got it replaced under warranty.
The money of the belt shouldnt dictate if it needs changed or not. However, that said, it's NOT the cost of the belt but the effort of removing the tensioner that sux. This is why people wait till 90-100k to change them. I have one waiting myself.......just not ready to mess with that tensioner yet.
I think I'll go and buy one just to have on hand, in the truck, should it decide to go bad.
You could use your pants belt prolly 54? :jester:54warrior said:I think I'll go and buy one just to have on hand, in the truck, should it decide to go bad.
I just did mine and it was easy.You just need a breaker bar or ratchet with a 14mm socket.put it on the nut of the tensioner pulley and push down on it.You will see a 1/4"hole in the arm of the tensioner and one on the engine side, line the 2 holes up and stick a short phillips or allen wrench,bolt etc... in the hole,I used a phillips.Once you put it in the hole you can release your breaker bar.This will keep the tensioner held down.Just slip the belt off put the new one on.Push back down on the tensioner and remove the phillips.The tensioner will adjust itself .Make sure you have a diagram of how the belt feeds thru the pulleys.Thats the hardest part.roy365 said:The money of the belt shouldnt dictate if it needs changed or not. However, that said, it's NOT the cost of the belt but the effort of removing the tensioner that sux. This is why people wait till 90-100k to change them. I have one waiting myself.......just not ready to mess with that tensioner yet.
OK, I'm just lazy, I admit it. I think I need to adjust the tension on mine - my alternator is putting out a weak 13.5v's and I think that's just a matter of a slightly loose belt. But anyway - I haven't really looked - where is the tensioner and how is it adjusted?roy365 said:The money of the belt shouldnt dictate if it needs changed or not. However, that said, it's NOT the cost of the belt but the effort of removing the tensioner that sux. This is why people wait till 90-100k to change them. I have one waiting myself.......just not ready to mess with that tensioner yet.
Nevermind - boya544 answered all my questions before I clicked 'post'...
If your facing the engine the tensioner is on the left side.(passenger).Tensioner is not adjustable, if its bad a new one cost like $45-$50.You can tell if your belt is going bad by shining a flashlight on it.You will see metal specs/particles on the inside (ribbed part) of the belt.Kinda like the metal you see when the steel belts start showing thru tires.Clancy said:OK, I'm just lazy, I admit it. I think I need to adjust the tension on mine - my alternator is putting out a weak 13.5v's and I think that's just a matter of a slightly loose belt. But anyway - I haven't really looked - where is the tensioner and how is it adjusted?
Nevermind - boya544 answered all my questions before I clicked 'post'...
Good info Booya!!! Thanks bro!!!! :cheers:
Hey, I'm just tall, not FAT, lol!!!roy365 said:You could use your pants belt prolly 54? :jester:
:upsidedow Oh my bad.......I don't know what I was thinking?!?!?!? I had to get you back for the dumptruck question.54warrior said:Hey, I'm just tall, not FAT, lol!!!
13.5 volts is about right, it is only a 12 volt system.Clancy said:OK, I'm just lazy, I admit it. I think I need to adjust the tension on mine - my alternator is putting out a weak 13.5v's and I think that's just a matter of a slightly loose belt. But anyway - I haven't really looked - where is the tensioner and how is it adjusted?
Nevermind - boya544 answered all my questions before I clicked 'post'...
Actually, I think it was about 13.2, but I really expected 14-15v, especially at 2000 rpm or higher - but it never wavered off a low 13. The only reason I expect that is that my battery seems to be all over the place. Sometimes it's strong, other times weak. I'm not running anything out of the ordinary (no amps, big lights. ect.) and it's 4-5 month old Optima Red Top that passes load tests like a champ...helomech said:13.5 volts is about right, it is only a 12 volt system.
I just changed mine using this method and didn't take anything off as the repair book states. Took longer for the engine to cool down then it did to replace the belt, I would say 8 minutes start to finish. I took the 14mm wrench with a 3 foot breaker bar and facing the engine with knees on the bumber I turned counter-clockwise then slipped a small phillips screwdriver in the holes, piece of cake... Old belt had 81,000 miles on it and it still looked good but I knew it would need it sooner or later. Replaced it with a Duralast Serpentine Belt from Autozone...Thanks fo the help...Jeffboya544 said:I just did mine and it was easy.You just need a breaker bar or ratchet with a 14mm socket.put it on the nut of the tensioner pulley and push down on it.You will see a 1/4"hole in the arm of the tensioner and one on the engine side, line the 2 holes up and stick a short phillips or allen wrench,bolt etc... in the hole,I used a phillips.Once you put it in the hole you can release your breaker bar.This will keep the tensioner held down.Just slip the belt off put the new one on.Push back down on the tensioner and remove the phillips.The tensioner will adjust itself .Make sure you have a diagram of how the belt feeds thru the pulleys.Thats the hardest part.
1 - 20 of 27 Posts
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