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shutter / vibration at 45 to 55 mph

32K views 31 replies 14 participants last post by  Firemt27 
#1 ·
Not really sure how to describe this other then when I am going down the road and stay at a steady speed between 45 to 55 mph more around 51mph I get a shutter almost like the truck is bouncing going down the road. Anyone else have this issue and have any ideas what would cause this? I have a 04 CC Big Tow w/ 100K on it exactly. It rolled today on my way to work :)
 
#8 · (Edited)
Me too - front shaft U-joints. I'll post a picture tonight.
On mine it was the aft joint - one of the bearing cups had _zero_ needles in it - another had just a few. Obviously the rubber seals failed a while back and the bearings just rusted to bits. I believe the front joint is a lot better shielded from road spray and probably that's a factor in the aft joint.

Since you have to pull the shaft to replace the joints, and they're cheap - why would you not just do both ?

The OEM joint doesn't have a grease Zerk fitting - the replacements I bought do. OK - the factory joints were Spicer and good stuff, but even good stuff won't last long with no lubrication. I also flushed out all the grease that came with the new (Federal Mogul) joints and pumped them full of Swepco 101, a moly-disulphide grease that's excellent in CV joints. If they can handle Rzeppa CV joints, Universal-joint needle-bearing cups should be a walk in the park...

_This_ will cause vibration...
 
#10 ·
When I had my transmission replaced with another used unit, I noticed that I have a vibration from about 40 to 50, but only in 4th gear.

Is it possible that the u-joints could still be the problem?

Any idea on what the dealer charges to change them vs buying the parts and doing it myself?
 
#11 ·
Yeah...I would still think front u-joints. Mine were bad at 80k. Vibration/shutter from 45mph to about 65mph. Replaced the tires, had the alignment done twice before I found the TSB. The aft joint (closest to the t-case) was actually clicking at parking lot speeds. Once I got to speed the road noise drowned out the clicking, but the vibration was steadily getting worse. Once the front drive shaft u-joint were replaced (and the drive shaft balanced) all was smooth again.

Dealer wanted +$800 to do it, local Goodyear shop did it for $200...but I had just dropped nearly $1k on new rubber with them so I guess I might have gotten a deal.
 
#12 ·
I'm also getting a driveline vibration at similar speeds and conditions. I have a 2008 with 44k on it. Would it be out of the norm for a worn u-joint with my year and the miles it has on it?
 
#13 ·
i had a vibration between 35-55mph and it turned out to be a bad rear pinion angle. w/ the miles i would guess u joints as well
 
#14 ·
I tried a 1* pinion shim w/ no change at all. What year is yours? Do you know what degree shim was used?
 
#16 ·
Billaj...from your description I bet you had mud or something stuck to a wheel or ? that finally worked its way free.

The fact that the stock u-joints lack a zerks fitting so they can be greased is surprising. I think ArtechnikA is right that the aft joint on the front shaft is doomed to fail due to the added exposure to the elements combined with the lack of a means to appropriately maintain/lubricate it.
 
#18 ·
The fact that the stock u-joints lack a zerks fitting so they can be greased is surprising. I think ArtechnikA is right that the aft joint on the front shaft is doomed to fail due to the added exposure to the elements combined with the lack of a means to appropriately maintain/lubricate it.
I've done a bit of research on this and there is quite the controversy on 'sealed/lifetime' vs greasable U-joints, each method with its advantages and drawbacks. After reading the discussions, I'm still comfortable with my decision to use grease-fitting joints, but I'm not in a position to recommend them to everyone in every circumstance.

On my failed joint (especially) and to some extent the others too, it was obvious that the elastomer seals had hardened and failed. Once the seals fail it's really just a matter of time before the joint fails, no matter what kind you've got. Ozone and heat are contributors to the seals hardening and failing, which may be another reason the aft joint has a hard time - I think it probably runs hotter.

I also believe good grease can help the situation, and that you won't be getting the very best grease in a bargain joint. I have no idea what Spicer is using in their premium joints so I can't speak to those. But when I did my joints, I did flush the factory grease and use a product I have confidence in.

Yes, I have promised myself I'll get under there every autumn and grease them, and accept the consequences if I don't keep that promise...
 
#20 ·
47k miles, front driveshaft aft u-joint. yanked it, brought it to rhode island driveshaft, 100 bucks they did both (spicer) with grease fittings, and balanced the shaft. wish I had thought about this before I had my rolling gear balanced 3 times.. fml
 
#21 ·
For those following this thread or maybe someone else who can help me out, here is a little update regarding my vibration. I'm getting the same vibration between 40-60mph while goosing the gas a bit just enough to keep it going. I'm not sure if this forum helps or hurts me at time. Apparently my vibration can be anything from unbalances tires, bad u-joints, or a bad tranny. Its so hard to pinpoint with no 100% fix. So in order, here is what I did

1: Balance tires - no change
2: Force balance tires - no change
3: Shims. Tired 1*, 1.5*, and 2* - no change
4: Dealer # 1 check while in during recall fix - no issue found
5: Dealer # 2 in for the vibration - "yeah its there, must be normal"
6: New rear shocks - no change
7: Replaced both u-joints on the rear shaft - no change...maybe a slight reduction
8: lubed slip yoke - no change
9: Pulled front drive shaft and road tested to rule in/out shaft - no change


I'm running out of things to check, fix, or look into with out assuming its something major like the rearend or tranny. Next up is a set of those helwig helper springs...after that I'm s.o.l. :confused:
 
#25 · (Edited)
Haha, those are nice looking trucks. Issues aside, I like the Titan the best. If it did in fact come to a new ride it would be something smaller and better on gas. This truck is killing me with my 90% city driving and $90 pocket emptying gas fills.

Next time you have the vibration, try dropping out of OD or manually changing gears while keeping speed and throttle the same. If it goes away, it could be a transmission issue.
I have tried that. It does go away somewhat but its hard to tell of its going away or the rpms and gear change are just masking it. I'm gonna do my tranny fluid this spring either way b/c its time. Maybe that will help. This software issue you talk about....is there a fix or just gotta deal with it? I'm pretty sure like most of us on this forum we are anal about our trucks. I've had my uncle who is a mechanic (and unbias opinion) state he feels it but its not a big deal. It may be a small vibration normal people might not even realize is there but since I feel it I feel it is a big deal.
 
#23 · (Edited)
Next time you have the vibration, try dropping out of OD or manually changing gears while keeping speed and throttle the same. If it goes away, it could be a transmission issue.

I had a problem where my transmission would shudder at low speeds in 5th gear with lockup. Changing the fluid seemed to help.
Might be worth a shot and even if it doesn't solve the problem, at least you get some transmission maintenance out of the way. :)

Another thing to consider is that it might actually be a software issue. On the newer Titans, the transmission seems more eager to engage lockup at low speeds. If you are driving with light throttle when this happens, you could get a shudder similar to when driving a manual transmission starting off in too high of a gear.

Anyways, that's my theory. Hope you find the problem. :cheers:
 
#24 ·
mine did it at around 55-60 mph when I got the truck with 45k miles on it.. balanced tires helped but still had it so i cranked the Ranchos up to 9 on the rear end and it stopped... so not sure if shocks were worn on the 5 setting or what but I'm not gonna question it now... my Ford used to bounce on the freeway when it was unloaded and I replaced the rear Ranchos with 30k miles on them to some Gas Magnums and problem went away... Ranchos were already worn on the passenger side
 
#28 · (Edited)
http://www.titantalk.com/forums/titan-problems-dealer-service/66913-08-death-wobble-vib.html
Read , Read & Read .... I have been down this road from mile 1 ... From page #23 , permalink #339
Well here you go guys : Test drove with TSM and verified concern,vib through truck at 40 to 80 mph. Swapped wheels with stock unit and test drove , vib still there. Removed front drive shaft and test drove, vib still there but found front drive shaft u-joint binding.. Was told by TSM to replace front and rear drive shaft plus diff assy...Replaced front and rear drive shaft plus diff assy vibration still there.... CLOCKED REAR DRIVE SHAFT 90 DEG, AND REAR DIFF ASSY , CONCERN RESOLVED...... I dont no how much of a help that will be, its just not really clear to me as what really fixed the problem besides turning the rear drive shaft 90 deg sense the problem was still there after the new shafts and diff assy.... I'm kinda at a loss.... All i can tell you is my truck is 100% fixed...
__________________
 
#29 ·
Can you explain what that means? Just rotate the shaft from where it mounts up to the bolt holes on the rear diff 1 set over??
 
#30 · (Edited)
Ok, I think I found my issue but I'm not sure what's causing it. As I said, I'm get a rear end vibration that feels like an unbalanced tire at certain speeds/rpms. I first thought it was a driveline or tranny issue but that hasn't panned out yet.

I've been noticing the truck feels wierd going over potsholes and bumps. I poke around a bit and decide to give a nice downward jolt to the rear bumper while parked. You would expect for the rear to compress and bounce back up but it didn't. Instead the whole bed/rearend bounced and vibrated up and down a bunch of times before it finally stopped. Its not like a missing or blown shock bounce. Its very short and choppy. There is no way its normal. Pushing on the rear bumper or jumping up and down in the bed can reproduce it 100% of the time. It looks like its from the rear half of the truck. No cab bounce and if you look at the seem between the cab and bed its very noticeable.

To just isolate the cause I jacked the truck up with the jack under the rear diff to rule out crappy tires. Bounce/vibration is still there. I then jacked the truck up and supported the rear with jackstands under the frame. I dropped the axle so its hanging from the rear w/o the tires on the ground so the truck is now unsupported by the rear axle. Its still there and maybe worse now.

My guess is at just the right speed and gear, an other wise normal hard shift or gas stab for example, makes the perfect storm. Instead of the truck taking it like its supposed to and being unaffected its being transfered to the rear and the bed vibrates and bounces. I gave the rear frame rail, bed mounts, and bolts an once over and found nothing abnormal. Any suggestions based on what I found?
 
#31 ·
I've been noticing the truck feels wierd going over potsholes and bumps. I poke around a bit and decide to give a nice downward jolt to the rear bumper while parked. You would expect for the rear to compress and bounce back up but it didn't. Instead the whole bed/rearend bounced and vibrated up and down a bunch of times before it finally stopped.
Did I understand you to say that the springs & dampers do not compress under load?

Could be one or both dampers is broken or siezed inside. I'd guess this is fairly unusual, but I suppose it could happen.

If the spring and damper mounts are _really_ siezed stuck so they have no rotation on the bushings it would keep them from working like they should, but with all the rubber in a stock suspension, I think that would be even more unusual than a siezed damper.
 
#32 ·
Yes, they do compress but it's what happens afterward that doesn't seem normal. When you push down on the rear it does compress but then it does the choppy bounce/vibration thing instead of rebounding like normal. The rear shocks are new and it did this before I got the new shocks.
 
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