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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So i asked the guy at 4 wheel parts if he can take a look at my titan and if he can help me figure out what lift is on this truck i bought....got it off a lot 18K w/ 47k miles, great shape but of course the lot wasn't much help determining what was installed....anyway, he looks at it and believes it is a stock suspension. then we go inside and i ask for a set of tow hooks (which were missing off the truck) and turns out he sold me some jeep tow hooks so those are going back. anyway, here is some info. 2011, cc, SV, 4x4, had stock 265s and wheels. i put on american racing ansen offroads (zero offset) and cooper Pro Stts 285/65 18 (33x12ish)....no rubbing. but i would like to know what i have on the truck. i am going to need some new UCAs since they are now kissing my coil buckets. any feedback on suspension is appreciated. on the front coil you will see a tag...the numbers on the tag are 2A21463-1 and 5401040A, on the front shocks there are stickers...numbers are 56100 ZR40A and 1106210134. i'll include pics. the rear has some kind of procomp and lift blocks 1.5" Also since i put on the new tires, the UCAs are kissing the coil bucket so that is an emergent swap out...looking for recommendations.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Re: "SME" at 4wheelparts store says OEM lift? Pt2 rear

here are pics of the rear....block is 1.5"
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
here are a few pics of the front w/ upper shock and what looks like spanner adjustment maybe? you can see where my UCA is striking the bucket too
 

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Any assistance with identifying the lift is appreciated. i have more info and pics if needed. my goal is to get this daily driver reliable enough to take into the rough stuff (hunting, fishing, camping on back roads / trails ) but hopefully not have to build an armor tank....maybe just a armor bradley....lol ....need to get some UCAs asap....Thanks in advance....
 

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Most likely a 2" spacer up front with the 1.5" rear block. Front struts appear to be OEM Nissan as well as the coils. Rears are Procomp shocks extended length to accomodate the rear block The reason why I am saying 2" up front is typically with a 1.5" spacer, you will not get any contact between the UCA and the coil bucket, with a 2.5" spacer your going to get a LOT of contact. so 2" seems to be the right answer A really good setup would e very similar to what I have, Bilstein 5100's up front set to the middle setting and the 2" spacer for 3" of total lift, then throw on some aftermarket UCA's (Love my bushing Dirt King arms). My guess would put you at about about 39.5-40" measured from the ground up to the fender at the center of the wheel. The tires should have zero affect on the UCA's touching the coil bucket,as you have not changed the suspension at all.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Fishnalaska - thanks for the reply! makes sense....i am measuring the front fender - center tire at 39.25 and the rear at 40.75 - I've been looking at bilsteins, good to know you are at mid perch there. i'll look into the UCAs first, the bucket kissing is making me nervous. Did you do the Dirt King UCAs, pretty much pull off the OEM and swap em ....did you end up getting an alignment done after that? i'll do my own wrenching but gotta give it another few days, still recovering from an internal mod (gallbladder removal surgery)....but it didn't stop me from stumbling down to the truck and getting up under there for some pics...lol. Thanks again and i look forward to learning and sharing insight with the folks on here.
 

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Those measurements sound about right. I did do the UCA swap myself (twice now) originally had RC UCA's ran those for about 4 years, then switched over to the DK's (along with the coil swap from OEM stuts to the Bilsteins, there is a very good detailed DYI thread here on the Bilstein swap). RC's barely gave me the clearance to run my set up, the DK's are a much better product, and give more clearance. I would definitely get an alignment when done, any time you mess with the front suspension. Good luck with the recovery!
 

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Truck looks great!
 

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Told you these guys knew more and could steer you right
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
hey - Fish, honda, Lee - thanks a bunch....you guys and this site are a god send....thank you! i'll let you know how i progress along with the truck....gotta get that UCA sorted out and swap out the OEM front shocks. Then get this beast dirty and see what breaks! Thanks again!
 
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Hitting this topic back up.... Got my DK UCAs today, have a set of Bilstein 5100s (gonna set on the mid perch), have a set of cam adj bolts for proper alignment, have my new sway bar end links. I got the all clear from the Doc - should be ok to wrench and fish post Gallbladder removal Mod... Question about the droop travel. Have you had any problems with bilsteins extending too far ? do you have limiting straps? if so, where did you install them on stock LCAs? Alaska, Lee, Honda - you guys have been a great source. and yes i have been reading through a bunch of threads looking for anyone who has needed or installed straps ...no joy, except for the higher lifts and aftermarket LCAs. Any insight / experience is appreciated.
Respectfully
12 Titan
 

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No straps needed at all, I have a 1.5" spacer on top of my bilsteins and there is still plenty of room for movement. I would suggest some extended bump stops (energy suspension 9-9101G $12-15) because they could possibly be over compressed and cause issues especially if you end up putting a spacer on top.
 

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Are you sure you should be doing this right now?
I've taken a massive amount of body damage and I don't want to see anyone get hurt.
Not even Honda when he says "hold my beer and watch this."
 
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Alaska - yeah, meant to mention the bump stops. Gonna replace the stocks, good catch (pun?). thanks for the continued sage advice and guidance. no limit straps = one less thing... Walrus - hahaha, i'll spread it out over a couple days if my body can't keep up with my motivation. thanks again fellas!
 

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are you sure you should be doing this right now?
I've taken a massive amount of body damage and i don't want to see anyone get hurt.
Not even honda when he says "hold my burrito and watch this."


fify
 

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Alaska - yeah, meant to mention the bump stops. Gonna replace the stocks, good catch (pun?). thanks for the continued sage advice and guidance. no limit straps = one less thing... Walrus - hahaha, i'll spread it out over a couple days if my body can't keep up with my motivation. thanks again fellas!
I was in the same boat as you 7 years ago when I bought my Titan new, learned a crapload from the guys here on the forum (and still do). It will most likely take you a couple days the first time anyhow, took me about 2 days the first time. I can do a strut swap (including coils) in about 2 1/2 hours, UCA swap in about 1 1/2, rear shocks in about an hour. I actually swapped my fronts out this weekend, because I got a new set basically for free. In the past 3 months I started out with 5100's in March, at the end of March, put in a set of used ICONs, pulled those out, put the bilsteins back in, ordered some new bearings, bushings and C clips for the ICONS, got those reset, put them back in, then ended up with the free set of 5100's so swapped all the hardware from my old 5100's to the new ones and put them back in this past weekend. Then when I was putting on the drivers side strut, noticed I have a blown boot on my cv axle, so now that has to be pulled out and replaced...





 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
yeah....i've done a bunch of wrenching on my other trucks just new to nissan titans. this is my keeper truck. six years old but new to me. your truck looks great! it looks like it is really well put together for some out in the sticks weekend or week long trips. thought about a cap, that would make my outdoor adventures a little easier but then again, i throw so much crap in the back of mine, i like keeping it open to air it out....do a lot of fishing and hunting. before i traded in my last truck 2004 GMC (Government Motor Corp) Sierra, i had changed both hubs, CV axles, water pump and the dang way the cam bolts are set up for the front alignment, i could never get it to stay right, they use pressed in tabs that guide the cam bolts....which was probably good for the first 10 years but that stuff gets exposed to the elements and they would never keep an alignment. kept eating front tires no matter how much i rotated, even cooper AT3. Been happy with my titan so far these last four months. after this CB contact fix, i'm probably onto exhaust headers...then breaks and i'll be where i want to be for a reliable take almost anywhere kind of truck. Good thing you caught your CV while it seems to be in good shape still....i would ask if you are gonna swap out the whole thing or just the boot but they aren't too expensive to replace and the work required is actually less just changing out the whole kitten and cabootal....so i assume you are just changing the whole thing. i am in the military and have access to a lift at the on base shop but i can't drink a beer and listen to music while i am in there so i think i will be doing this at the house....in the garage if i move out the boat, kayak and bikes and on and on....lol. anyway, thank again for the insight and good luck with your CV replacement.
 

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Yeah going to do the whole axle, gotta take it all out anyhow and a new isn't that much more than the boot kit. My truck is setup as my weekend (or week long) getaway ride if I'm by myself, as well as my daily driver. Usually take one long road trip out west to Wyoming, Montana, or eastern Idaho for a fly fishing trip in September. Ultimate goal is to have it set up as a overland vehicle, with some speed/performance. Good luck on the work, keep us posted.

 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Got the DK UCAs and bils installed....it was a pain cranking down on the spring....the first one i cranked down and compressed the spring as good as i could and of course the nut on the strut wouldn't break free so i went ahead and cut it off...i Highly do NOT recommend this unless 110% of the spring pressure is released from the top plate. maybe i just got lucky...i put the thing on the floor of the garage and cleared my firing lanes...when she finally gave up the ghost, strut when one way, top assembly went the other...bam, done. i work with military big guns and explosives, not sure if that qualified me to attempt it but i knew i would be riding the lightening when i engaged in the cutting and took precautions (if there is such a thing for that move)... the next one i did on a spring compressor machine....much different and i Highly DO recommend this method. still had to cut the top stud off but not bad with all the spring pressure off....had that one swapped out in a matter of minutes. i ended up going with the bottom perch mostly because the first one i was doing in my garage with spring compressors. i didnt' want to try to torque the spring anymore. so both are on the bottom perch for now. QUESTION - should i still go ahead and add the bigger bump stops? i am thinking i should since i dont' want to top out the shock at full compression. Oh...and i ditched the sway bar for now. headed for an alignment. any inputs on the bump stop is appreciated.
Thanks again fellas!!!
 
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