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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
1) I just installed some 6.5s in my front doors (infinity component system). I used 5/8" MDF to build the adapters for the speakers and of course the adapters were too thick (door panels won't press into place).

Do I have to use that flimsy 1/4" MDF for the adapters? Anyone know how thick you can go?

I *wanted* to use roughly 3/8", but couldn't find any small sheets (didn't want to buy a 4'x8' sheet for two little adapter plates, so I used a piece of 5/8" MDF shelving.

There was regular plywood available in the lesser thickness but - why is MDF the material of choice? Better density?

Also - Is it advised to enclose the entire baffle? I was sealing the mounting surface of the adapter to the plastic OEM baffle, then the speaker to the adapter, but all that seems somewhat overkill when the baffle is open in the rear, allowing the speaker to bounce all over within the doors.
 

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kgMoto said:
1) I just installed some 6.5s in my front doors (infinity component system). I used 5/8" MDF to build the adapters for the speakers and of course the adapters were too thick (door panels won't press into place).

Do I have to use that flimsy 1/4" MDF for the adapters? Anyone know how thick you can go?

I *wanted* to use roughly 3/8", but couldn't find any small sheets (didn't want to buy a 4'x8' sheet for two little adapter plates, so I used a piece of 5/8" MDF shelving.

There was regular plywood available in the lesser thickness but - why is MDF the material of choice? Better density?

Also - Is it advised to enclose the entire baffle? I was sealing the mounting surface of the adapter to the plastic OEM baffle, then the speaker to the adapter, but all that seems somewhat overkill when the baffle is open in the rear, allowing the speaker to bounce all over within the doors.
I actuallu use 1/4 inch masonite . Its hard board and works great . you can use the 5/8s as well but you have to mount the 5/8s from the back onto the factory baffle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Oh...from the inside. I didn't think of that at all.

I'll give that a shot; if still isn't up to snuff, I'll grab a sheet of 1/4". I wasn't sure if that would be to flimsy.

Thanks.
 

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Yeah but he is using the factory plastic piece to mount the MDF too not just the door.
 

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Yeah I realize that, the intent was to show a method of using a more rigid mount than the flimsy factory plastic.
 

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This is what I did.
I made the adapter like Sammy, I also added a spacer ring to get the speaker closer to the grill on the door panel.

 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Yeah Chad that setup looks more solid than the OEM plastic housing. Is your spacer ring made of the same wood? And where did you get the black coated MDF? (that doesn't look like it was just painted, although Sammy's looks as though it was)

Is anyone sealing these off though? It seems odd to put all that effort in, only to have the sound bounce around IN the doors. Or is it unnecessary?
 

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I just made a spacer ring out of MDF and glued it to the adapter. When I screwed the speaker to it I made sure the screws went through both pieces of wood. I also used some foam weather stripping on the back side that seals the adapter to the doors. Very similar to what Sammy did.

Also, that is just regular black spray-paint. I did this because MDF can get moldy and I didn't want my door panels to start to smell. The picture was just a test fitting. I added washers to the bolts when I did the final install.

I didn't make a special pod that goes behind the speaker but I did add a lot of Raamatt inside the door and a bit of the ensolite foam behind the speaker to help deaded the sound and stop the waves. I used this setup for a while but got sick of the door panel vibrating so I sealed the doors. It made a huge difference for the midbass. The CDT M6's have some pretty good output!
 
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