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Jacking them out with 1/2" bolts looks good, at least in the movie:


"I changed them so almost 4 years ago (200k miles ago)! Man time flies.
Anyways, last time I used Timken and they run about $250 a pair. Found some TRQ on 1AAuto for $139 for the pair"

Gets 200K miles service life, wants to use something else!?!
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Pulling the hub assembly can be a PITA. I used a three-prong gear puller, a BFH and a health dose of swear words. Banging on it from the back side while someone on the front side keeps tension on the gear puller helps. I did it solo, so I was busy on both sides.

Hopefully you put some anti-seize between the hub assembly and the spindle when you last did the hubs. I sanded the spindle and then applied the anti-seize. If the guy that bought my truck ever has to do the hubs again, he'll thank me.
When we replaced them before we were able to get them off without a puller surprisingly enough. Hoping for the same luck this time lol
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Jacking them out with 1/2" bolts looks good, at least in the movie:


"I changed them so almost 4 years ago (200k miles ago)! Man time flies.
Anyways, last time I used Timken and they run about $250 a pair. Found some TRQ on 1AAuto for $139 for the pair"

Gets 200K miles service life, wants to use something else!?!
Lol I know I know. Just a little short on money right now so I was just curious.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Update: So I replaced the hub and it fixed the problem AND got rid of all the abs lights!!! Did I just get lucky with that being the bad sensor?
 

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Update: So I replaced the hub and it fixed the problem AND got rid of all the abs lights!!! Did I just get lucky with that being the bad sensor?
Not luck you did the correct inspection it proved true simple as that. I but a piece of metal between hub and suspension arm towards the back of hub in an area that won’t give then start truck and turn the wheel lightly to pop it off less labor intensive. Glad you seem to get it off easy


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Discussion Starter #26
Not luck you did the correct inspection it proved true simple as that. I but a piece of metal between hub and suspension arm towards the back of hub in an area that won’t give then start truck and turn the wheel lightly to pop it off less labor intensive. Glad you seem to get it off easy


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Yeah man both times I’ve replaced my hubs they’ve came off easy. I literally just grabbed it with both hands last night and wiggled it back and forth and within 5 seconds it came right off lol
 

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Yeah man both times I’ve replaced my hubs they’ve came off easy. I literally just grabbed it with both hands last night and wiggled it back and forth and within 5 seconds it came right off lol
You must not live in the northern part of the country lol


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Discussion Starter #28
You must not live in the northern part of the country lol


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Nope, East Texas lol
 

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Yeah man both times I’ve replaced my hubs they’ve came off easy. I literally just grabbed it with both hands last night and wiggled it back and forth and within 5 seconds it came right off lol
This sounds like the auto parts and plumbing parts vendor sponsored how to videos that I watch on the net. No corrosion, no hard water, the old parts still look brand new and everything can be basically removed and installed by a frail spinster with a crescent wrench and a screwdriver.
 

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This sounds like the auto parts and plumbing parts vendor sponsored how to videos that I watch on the net. No corrosion, no hard water, the old parts still look brand new and everything can be basically removed and installed by a frail spinster with a crescent wrench and a screwdriver.
I adopted a VW late last winter. Watched the video on replacing the WS/AB sensor...took the guy about a minute.
3 HOURS to do the pair on the VW. The last three years it has been in VT, previous to that it was in AZ for it's life....I was not expecting such a hard time.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Yup. mine had the same issue in September (Lights and Squealing).. Good for another 100k now
So help me understand this. Surely the lights don’t come on because of the bad bearing right? Lol
 

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See Reason #2: bad wheel bearing: "If a wheel bearing is significantly worn to the point where the wheel can wobble about its axis, more than likely an ABS speed sensor code will be stored."

 

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So help me understand this. Surely the lights don’t come on because of the bad bearing right? Lol
I had no trouble lights illuminated on mine. Possibly because I caught it early.
 

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Nice post "bestachess" for explaining it on #2. Like i said before, it just happened to me in Sept and i could not find it happening to anybody else until this thread. I thought i could of been crazy.

3 failures with the typical loud howl and one with squealing and ABS/Slip lights on with 208 k miles on the '04
 

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Discussion Starter #37
See Reason #2: bad wheel bearing: "If a wheel bearing is significantly worn to the point where the wheel can wobble about its axis, more than likely an ABS speed sensor code will be stored."

Wow. That’s scary that it was that bad that it threw a light. Those lights came on 6 months ago..... Didn’t hear any type of noise till last week :/
 

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Discussion Starter #38
Nice post "bestachess" for explaining it on #2. Like i said before, it just happened to me in Sept and i could not find it happening to anybody else until this thread. I thought i could of been crazy.

3 failures with the typical loud howl and one with squealing and ABS/Slip lights on with 208 k miles on the '04
Yeah the first time this happened about 4 years ago is was a totally different sound. Strange.
 

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I had the same problem on mine. Turned out to be the skid plate rubbing the back side of my rotor. It did it at odd times and speeds and usually always while on a left turn
 
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