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What's odd is one time I tried to start it in the morning in the 30 degree range and no luck. Went back out later when was was in the 50s and it started. I'm wondering if its dependent upon coolant temp. But that doesn't really make since for why it starts as soon as I put cables on it.
 

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What's odd is one time I tried to start it in the morning in the 30 degree range and no luck. Went back out later when was was in the 50s and it started. I'm wondering if its dependent upon coolant temp. But that doesn't really make since for why it starts as soon as I put cables on it.
Does it always start as soon as you put the jumpers to it?

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Can you put a multi meter on the battery terminals and observe the battery voltage while cranking the starter motor? If the starter motor draws the battery voltage below a certain threshold the ignition system may not have enough voltage to fire.
Eddie 300 or Outkast will probably know the magic voltage number. Maybe even baseball.

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I notice when cranking on mine it drops pretty low, like below the 1/4 mark. Would that mean that the starter is bad? I'm not getting any codes on my BullyDog. I'm getting tired of throwing money at it that's for sure!

Wagoner, I'm replacing the coolant temp sensor on Wednesday evening and having the fuel pressure tested that day. I'll let you know if it makes a difference.
 

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The starter could possibly be drawing too many amps if it is coming up on the end of the life cycle. Test voltage at the battery, not with the dashboard gauge.

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I've actually had the battery tested 4 times. The last time was yesterday, I pulled the battery and dropped it off at O'Reilly. It tested good and charged to 100%. I also had the starter tested at the battery, it was good....key word WAS. I've been cranking on it so much this last week it's sure to be the next failing part!
 

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Discussion Starter #67
Can you put a multi meter on the battery terminals and observe the battery voltage while cranking the starter motor? If the starter motor draws the battery voltage below a certain threshold the ignition system may not have enough voltage to fire.
Eddie 300 or Outkast will probably know the magic voltage number. Maybe even baseball.

Sent from the auto lockup auto crash app. Hey look! a pic...... boom.
This is basically where the dealer and Nissan Tech is diagnosing mine. They stated there needs to be a minimum of 10 v going through the ECM to start. Only 9v is going through at start up.
 

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Discussion Starter #68 (Edited)
The starter could possibly be drawing too many amps if it is coming up on the end of the life cycle. Test voltage at the battery, not with the dashboard gauge.

Sent from the auto lockup auto crash app. Hey look! a pic...... boom.
This is was the first thing the dealer replaced on mine. Did not fix issue and did not see any changes. I wouldn't waste money unless you are sure. I do have a more efficent starter now, but still at square one.
 

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Discussion Starter #70
Only a suggestion, IPDM or Crank position sensor?
Different IPDM was installed on mine. Was my original thought on issue. That one does not seem to be prevelant int the '07 models from what I am seeing, just the earlier ones.
 

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Does it always start as soon as you put the jumpers to it?

Sent from AutoGuide.com App
Every single time but once when my truck was covered in ice. It starts as soon as I put cables on it and walk to the driver side and crank it.

I can check voltage when trying to start it this weekend. Its dark when I leave for work and when I get home. I actually had to jump it leaving work today and it was 32 degrees.

I've already replaced my negative cable. It was so corroded it wasn't even flexible. I'm probably going to check the continuity of the cables on the positive side. They may be corroded as well and creating some resistance. New IPDM should be here end of the week.
 

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Magic number depends on the ambient temp.rule of thumb 12 to 12.3.. Should be ok.
That voltage they getting when cranking .is it at the battery or at the Ecm plug?
ask they disconnect the drive belt use another wire from battery to Ecm plug (back probe).

Have u ever done a compression test...wet and dry?
Chance are lossing compression when you crank
it builds but pulls battery down .that little boost is what's it needs for the extra turn..
If u don't know how it works u can't fix it......Sent from my titan
 

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Every single time but once when my truck was covered in ice. It starts as soon as I put cables on it and walk to the driver side and crank it.

I can check voltage when trying to start it this weekend. Its dark when I leave for work and when I get home. I actually had to jump it leaving work today and it was 32 degrees.

I've already replaced my negative cable. It was so corroded it wasn't even flexible. I'm probably going to check the continuity of the cables on the positive side. They may be corroded as well and creating some resistance. New IPDM should be here end of the week.
Good idea.
Gonna be tough to get to the starter end of the positive.
Is your engine dirty and oily? Or is it pretty clean?

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Good idea.
Gonna be tough to get to the starter end of the positive.
Is your engine dirty and oily? Or is it pretty clean?

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Its pretty clean. I'm not going to have time to do this until the weekend though.
 

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I wish mine would start period! Ever since Friday its not run FML. I see a 1500 ltz in the near future.
 

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I wish mine would start period! Ever since Friday its not run FML. I see a 1500 ltz in the near future.
What was the last thing you did with the truck before the problem showed up?

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I put a bottle of Heet water remover in with 20 gallons of premium gas, drove it for the day, plenty of starts and stops, and then parked it. Overnight it dropped to -17* and it hasn't started since. I've got icicles hanging from the bottom of the truck to the pavement!
Tomorrow I'm going to try and warm the oil pan and motor before re-installing my fully charged battery. I'm going to drape a tarp over the hood and put my catalytic heater under the oil pan for a couple hours. Then I'm going to use my new DieHard jumpstarter with the fully charged battery and try to shock Frankintruck to life.
Then I'll drive it to a shop up the road (no dealer for 60 miles) and have them install the cooler temp sensor and test the fuel pressure.
I don't know what else to do?
 

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The truck first started (didn't start) this at Thanksgiving when it got below freezing. It finally started about mid day once it warmed up.
A couple weeks later the radio geeked out. It ejected all the cds, then wouldn't turn on the next day, then all of a sudden just came on while driving. Since then no problems with the radio?
In the last 5 months, I replaced the condenser, rear calipers, and radiator. Also 2 of my window motors crapped out and I noticed the driver side floor wet, under my weathertechs.
I don't if any of that's linked but its adding up.
 

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The truck first started (didn't start) this at Thanksgiving when it got below freezing. It finally started about mid day once it warmed up.
A couple weeks later the radio geeked out. It ejected all the cds, then wouldn't turn on the next day, then all of a sudden just came on while driving. Since then no problems with the radio?
In the last 5 months, I replaced the condenser, rear calipers, and radiator. Also 2 of my window motors crapped out and I noticed the driver side floor wet, under my weathertechs.
I don't if any of that's linked but its adding up.
Hmmm. Water. Just for giggles, dig on the passenger side for the connector where the wire looms join. It will be behind the fender liner, low, behind the wheel well. Some guys who had driveablity problems discovered that connection was loose or dirty. Cleaning it up solved their problem. I wonder if that could be your problem Jason.

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Worth a shot! I'll do that before I take it to the shop today. Thanks
 
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