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Discussion Starter #81
Every single time but once when my truck was covered in ice. It starts as soon as I put cables on it and walk to the driver side and crank it.

I can check voltage when trying to start it this weekend. Its dark when I leave for work and when I get home. I actually had to jump it leaving work today and it was 32 degrees.

I've already replaced my negative cable. It was so corroded it wasn't even flexible. I'm probably going to check the continuity of the cables on the positive side. They may be corroded as well and creating some resistance. New IPDM should be here end of the week.
The whole positive fuse box/ terminal was replaced by the dealer on mine. This caused a lot of new codes to show up and not solving the issue. This was the most recent thing done, and ther reason they are going in the direction they are, costing me $$$$$$.
 

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Well..mine started around noon today. I put a heater under the oil pan for 2 hours, with a tarp wrapped around the hood and grill. I put my jump starter (750cca) on my fully charged battery and it fired right up. Now I don't know if it was the heater or the extra juice??

Regardless I took it to the Chevy dealer and they offered me $8500 for it with just under 125,000 miles. I'm not sold yet but a 1500LTZ from 42k down to 29k after tax,tag,and title is pretty tempting!

Granted it doesn't have the balls my T has but its comfortable with the warranties and all.
 

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The whole positive fuse box/ terminal was replaced by the dealer on mine. This caused a lot of new codes to show up and not solving the issue. This was the most recent thing done, and ther reason they are going in the direction they are, costing me $$$$$$.
Did they replace the wiring going to the fuse box or just the fuse box? Did the ever test fuel pressure or spark? That's my next thing when I get time.
 

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Discussion Starter #85
Did they replace the wiring going to the fuse box or just the fuse box? Did the ever test fuel pressure or spark? That's my next thing when I get time.
No on pressure or spark because the truck starts if jumped, then continues to start on it's own after that (no sputtering or delays). Nissan narrowed it down to be an amp/volt thing. Nothing in diagnostics pointed to either one of the others.

As stated in my initial post, they are now replacinge all modules and wiring under the hood. Nissan advised this after the ECM, IPDM, and wiring fuse box were all replaced without resolving the issue. Based on the diagnostic reports, there is something that keeps shorting all these things out. That is why they are replacing the whole deal.
 

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No on pressure or spark because the truck starts if jumped, then continues to start on it's own after that (no sputtering or delays). Nissan narrowed it down to be an amp/volt thing. Nothing in diagnostics pointed to either one of the others.

As stated in my initial post, they are now replacinge all modules and wiring under the hood. Nissan advised this after the ECM, IPDM, and wiring fuse box were all replaced without resolving the issue. Based on the diagnostic reports, there is something that keeps shorting all these things out. That is why they are replacing the whole deal.
Good Lord! After they do this last "Hail Mary," I would seriously be looking at envoking the Federal Lemon Law and request a new truck or my money back...

Sent from AutoGuide.com App
 

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Discussion Starter #88
Good Lord! After they do this last "Hail Mary," I would seriously be looking at envoking the Federal Lemon Law and request a new truck or my money back...

Sent from AutoGuide.com App
Oh, I have already called my state attorney general's office to inquire. Regardless I am still going to really go after this and Nissan. Too many things replaced without a solution, and this was based on the Nissan Tech line recomendation. I would be satisfied if they just reimbursed me for all the work that was doen that didn't resolve the issue, and I just be charged for the repair that resolved it. I find that reasonable. but with manufacturer service centers, they have to go through protocal. That is why I'm not even going to bother with them, but rather just bipass and deal directly with the state and manufacturer.
 

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Discussion Starter #89 (Edited)
"just a quick update since my last post.Last winter my vehicle was still acting up so I took it to the local nissan dealership.While there,they replaced the crank sensor total cost under $300.During summer it ran greatIt now brings me to this winterAs the temperatures drop the truck refused to start.I took the vehicle to a local mechanic,who could find no codes and thought it could be a poor ground issue total cost $120.A while back the truck refused to start for 3 days.I was fed up with it and decided that i was going to find the problem or else.That week the temp stayed in the 20s.I knew that if the temp was over 45 degrees or higher it would start.So i got a extension cord and my wife's blow dryer.I measured the heat coming out of it with a infrared thermometer ant it was 102 degree in 19 degree weather.I tried to first start the truck,it was a no go.Then i took the hair blower and warmed up the ecu for 5 min and to my surprise it cranked right up.The next day i warmed up the ecu in 19 degree weather and once again it started right up.On the third day i attempted to start it without warming the ecu but it was a no go. After the ecu was warmed up it started right up.. I contacted courtesy parts and they matched the ecu by my vin number.It was a plug and drive.Ever since the ecu was replaced the truck has been running great.Its funny how sometimes we take simple things like starting vehicle in single digit weather for granted.I took the other ecu and pried it open and looked at it under a magnifying glass.It had a cracked solder joint.Ill post images of both ecu when i get a chance."

So based off of the CT message above, I'm assuming ECM and ECU are the same thing? If so, I had my ECM replaced with no result. So in my case, this is not the resolution. I noted in another post that they tested the ECM was only having 9 volts going trough it. 10 volts is what is required for starting. This is where The theory above and the result makes sense, just not in my case.
 

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Maybe someone can help me ??? 07 titan with a no start issue. Replaced the ipdm and the battery. Be4 i replaced the ipdm i did the swap with the fog light relay and it started so i went to nissan and bought a new relay put it in and no start so i went and bought 3 more relays. Samething no start. So i orded the ipdm replaced it and still nothing! Ive got 5-6 hundread in this thing and it still nothing but a blacktop weight in my driveway. Any help ???? Plz
 

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"just a quick update since my last post.Last winter my vehicle was still acting up so I took it to the local nissan dealership.While there,they replaced the crank sensor total cost under $300.During summer it ran greatIt now brings me to this winterAs the temperatures drop the truck refused to start.I took the vehicle to a local mechanic,who could find no codes and thought it could be a poor ground issue total cost $120.A while back the truck refused to start for 3 days.I was fed up with it and decided that i was going to find the problem or else.That week the temp stayed in the 20s.I knew that if the temp was over 45 degrees or higher it would start.So i got a extension cord and my wife's blow dryer.I measured the heat coming out of it with a infrared thermometer ant it was 102 degree in 19 degree weather.I tried to first start the truck,it was a no go.Then i took the hair blower and warmed up the ecu for 5 min and to my surprise it cranked right up.The next day i warmed up the ecu in 19 degree weather and once again it started right up.On the third day i attempted to start it without warming the ecu but it was a no go. After the ecu was warmed up it started right up.. I contacted courtesy parts and they matched the ecu by my vin number.It was a plug and drive.Ever since the ecu was replaced the truck has been running great.Its funny how sometimes we take simple things like starting vehicle in single digit weather for granted.I took the other ecu and pried it open and looked at it under a magnifying glass.It had a cracked solder joint.Ill post images of both ecu when i get a chance."

So based off of the CT message above, I'm assuming ECM and ECU are the same thing? If so, I had my ECM replaced with no result. So in my case, this is not the resolution. I noted in another post that they tested the ECM was only having 9 volts going trough it. 10 volts is what is required for starting. This is where The theory above and the result makes sense, just not in my case.
It is the same..
This new Ecm you have on did you try the hair blower on that when it was cold?


If u don't know how it works u can't fix it......Sent from my titan
 

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Yes they are the same thing.

So I did a few voltage checks on mine when I got home yesterday.
Initial - 12.57V (good)
3 hours later - 12.57V (good)
This morning approx. 10 hours later - 12.28V (bad)

A normal short should have produced a lower voltage at the 3 hour mark. I'm guessing that based on the time delay for the battery to start draining, something is getting too cold and then grounding out. Might be why I missed it when I did a parasitic draw test. It was warmer weather. I might open my ecu up this weekend and look.
 

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I've been bringing my battery in every night and putting it on the charger. Each night it starts off at 86% charged. With it fully charged it fires right up in the morning, even with it 1* today. My thoughts are is just takes more juice on cold mornings and my battery left outside overnight must be dropping too low.
So...tired of messing with it and getting a new ride tomorrow!

I have a few days before I pick it up. They have to tint the front windows, install a bed liner, and wash her up.

Not to thread jack, but for the guys following this one I have a few things I could strip off my T before I never see it again��

1) BullyDog PP
2) under seat storage bin
3) Weather Tech matts front/back (black)

I'm not leaving tho! I still have my 04'!
 

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Its definitely temperature dependent. Last night I checked the voltage and it was 12.6V. Decided to unhook the battery but left it outside. Went out this morning and it was still 12.6V and it was approximately 33 degrees. Got in to fire it up and no bueno. After 6 attempts I checked voltage and it was 12.27V. Doesn't seem normal. Jumped it off. Left work with it about 58 degrees out and fired up first try. I really don't want to get rid of this truck so I hope the weather warms back up soon.
 

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Discussion Starter #95
It is the same..
This new Ecm you have on did you try the hair blower on that when it was cold?


If u don't know how it works u can't fix it......Sent from my titan
First let me say I may have mislead before.... it was the ECM relay that was replaced, not the ECM itself.

I did not try the blower, but my big takeaway was the finding that the solder was cracked.

I don't know how much the temp on the ECM matters. However, if the solder is faulty, it can get brittle over time and with something electrical, it could crack. This makes perfect sense with my issue, and all others. If it is cracked, that will not allow the normal amount of current to flow through it that would be required to power the vehicle. When it is very cold out, that battery drains down and the CCA is much lower. Between both of these, that is a perfect answer as to why they are not starting in the cold.

Now, I wonder how long it will take for Nissan to acknowledge this as an issue and do a recall? If you Google "2007 Titan starting issues" there are numerous people out there with the same issue.
 

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It makes sense. The cold weather would cause the cracked solder joint to contract and break its connection, however,it doesn't make too much since why putting jumper cables on it works.
 

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It makes sense. The cold weather would cause the cracked solder joint to contract and break its connection, however,it doesn't make too much since why putting jumper cables on it works.
if you have an electrical component drawing to much amps than it should it will cause overheating which will cause loose connections which will create high resistance the colder it the weather gets.
When you put the jumper on it gives it that extra boost

One possible cause could be your fuel pump look at my post a couple day ago we're I made mention about fuel pump.
All you guys who are having this problem how much aftermarket stuff do you have on your trucks?

If u don't know how it works u can't fix it......Sent from my titan
 

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if you have an electrical component drawing to much amps than it should it will cause overheating which will cause loose connections which will create high resistance the colder it the weather gets.
When you put the jumper on it gives it that extra boost

One possible cause could be your fuel pump look at my post a couple day ago we're I made mention about fuel pump.
All you guys who are having this problem how much aftermarket stuff do you have on your trucks?

If u don't know how it works u can't fix it......Sent from my titan
Eddie does not have a whole ton of posts on this site but i have noticed that he tends to be spot on. Listen to him carefully. He will not steer you wrong.

sent from the auto guide auto crash auto lockup app.
 

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Eddie does not have a whole ton of posts on this site but i have noticed that he tends to be spot on. Listen to him carefully. He will not steer you wrong.

sent from the auto guide auto crash auto lockup app.
At least some one is paying attention.... Thanks walrus..

If u don't know how it works u can't fix it......Sent from my titan
 

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I fully understand how electricity works. Yes resistance goes up with temperature linearly but goes away with it. There are fuses in place to prevent an overcurrent condition that could cause damage. And OP already had his starter replaced if that's what you are referring to. Tomorrow is my day off so I will do some more troubleshooting. I'm not dropping the tank to check the pump but will check fuel pressure. Jumper cables would not help if anything was wrong with fuel pressure besides the pump not getting power which would be due to power distribution.
 
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