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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I had a trutrac and ring and pinion installed recently and had to take it back for a whining noise that popped up. Turns out the adjustment bolt for the back lash is stripped and it pushed the nut out of adjustment. I've been told this adjustment is built into the housing of the rear end.

Does anyone know a fix for this? The guy that did the install thinks it'll happen again unfortunately.

I searched this forum up and down and couldn't find any old threads for this situation. Thanks in advance.
 

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2017 titan sv 4x4 with tech, convinience, tow, navigation, and Texas packages
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maybe he accidentally did it and thats why he thinks it will happen again?

lets see if anyone else has had the same trouble on that type of locker
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
He's a trustworthy guy. I've known him for 15 years. My old spider gears shattered and screwed that and my r and p up. He thought it would be OK after getting the nut to work again but it slipped the threads within a week. Just my luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I'm really starting to wonder. Everyone I talk to says the housing should be just a housing with no built in adjustment. I also can't find anything online of it or a similar situation. There's no way I'm the first one with this issue with the hundreds of built titan rear ends. I'm praying for someone to chime in and give me some clarity lol.
 

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The housing is threaded on each side. The side bearing preload adjusters thread into the housing. There is no “adjustment bolt”.
is a fairly decent video that shows you what your dealing with.
So, what stripped? The threads on the adjusters or the threads on the housing?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I'm no mechanic by any means btw lol. I was told the adjusters are stripped on one side. And the result is my stuff won't stay tight and within spec. Sorry for my lack of better terms. So what do you think he's saying is stripped? The threads the adjusters go in? Are the adjusters replaceable do you know?
 

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That’s the question to ask your mechanic: which thread is stripped? The housing thread or the adjuster thread?
I’ve seen the adjusters available for the front differential but not for the rear.
If just one adjuster is stripped, your mechanic can use shims to adjust backlash on the stripped side.
You could also have him remove the Assembly and have a machine shop make you a new adjuster by handing them the good one. Although, I’m sure that will take time and I’m certain it won’t be cheap.
If the stripped adjuster is otherwise in good shape (other then the threads) - a shop can turn down the threads, install a collar, and re-thread.
Either way - don’t drive it till it’s fixed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks for all the input, I really appreciate it! Yes, only one side is stripped. I like the shim idea, have you seen that done before? Is there any reason I couldn't weld that bad adjuster at spec?(I'd rather shim it if possible, I'm just curious)
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I'm in a bit of a bind. I got the cajun kit and I have a month left before my times up to get my custom tunes. I've had the worst luck and I've dumped more money into this thing than I want to, and it's been parked more than driven the last year lol. I was thinking I'd buy a used rear end eventually but it's not feasible right now. So I'm not worried about not being able to adjust it again, I just need to get by for a bit.

You've been extremely helpful, I really appreciate it!
 

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You can't weld it at spec. Or at least, not for less than the cost of a replacement rear housing at any level of acceptable quality. Your mechanic may be able to shim it if suitably sized shims exist. He may be able to source an adjuster from a used diff. He may have stripped the threads in the housing tube, though, which means a new adjuster won't work. Need more info to say what the best path forward is.
 

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No need (at this point) in buying a new rear. Don’t weld it. I’m a bit surprised that at this point it wasn’t suggested by the mechanic to shim the stripped side. Install the stripped side and make sure it’s bottomed out and use appropriate sized shim kit. He’ll need to install and remove the carrier a couple times until he finds the appropriate combo of shims, but once the backlash is set - you should be good to go for a long while
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
You can't weld it at spec. Or at least, not for less than the cost of a replacement rear housing at any level of acceptable quality. Your mechanic may be able to shim it if suitably sized shims exist. He may be able to source an adjuster from a used diff. He may have stripped the threads in the housing tube, though, which means a new adjuster won't work. Need more info to say what the best
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I'm going to call him and find out the details. I'm not sure why he didn't think of it either, he works on drag cars, race cars etc and claimed to have done a ton of rear ends in his time. I'm assuming the shims would side over the adjuster and essentially replace the adjusters job?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
So he said both the adjuster and threads on the housing have seen better days. I mentioned shimming the bad side and he didn't think it would work, and it would cause a bearing to have to much pressure on it and eventually crack. Idk if I'm not relaying the message correctly or he's not picking up what I'm throwing down. what but he said he's going to talk to another mechanic and get back to me.
 

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Not over. Inside. The adjusters job is to adjust the left/right position of the assembly therefor adjusting the amount of backlash. The adjuster on the m226 is convenient because you don’t need to remove the assembly to add/remove shims to set backlash correctly.
 

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The biggest pain in using shims is setting preload on the side carrier bearings once backlash is set. With two functional adjusters you loosen one and tighten the other to set backlash. Then you loosen or tighten both equally to adjust preload. It’s a balancing act. Doesn’t sound like fun for a shop that runs on the clock.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I thought my truck was good to go, it whined again and the prognosis was the adjuster won't stop moving in. From my understanding.. I'm being told there's nothing to bottom the adjuster out on, so it keeps pushing in which leads to way too much tolerance.

Does this sound right? thanks in advance!
 
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