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Discussion Starter #1
Got all new Moog LCA, UCAs, sway bar bushings, end, on and on.

Also some new KYB Struts and rear shocks.

After getting the LCA and UCA in on the drivers side, once I put in the strut and secure the top, I have to push over the bottom of the strut about 2 to 3 inches to get it to seat into the LCA.

Is that normal?
 

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Got all new Moog LCA, UCAs, sway bar bushings, end, on and on.

Also some new KYB Struts and rear shocks.

After getting the LCA and UCA in on the drivers side, once I put in the strut and secure the top, I have to push over the bottom of the strut about 2 to 3 inches to get it to seat into the LCA.

Is that normal?
Yeah totally stuff moves around while disconnected I found out the hard way not to have either side down while trying to install new strut on opposite side :) Get a alignment of course.
 

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Just get all the bolts through the correct holes before tightening ANYTHING up. Then tighten it up and get an alignment. I typically put the bottom of the strut in first, then compress with a piece of wood to put the top in. That way if you don't manage to get all the top bolts lined up perfectly a good smack with a deadblow can knock everything into place without a lot of effort.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
i know they say dont torque the LCA, UCA and strut bolts until you the tires on and weight on the system, but what if you put a jack at the bottom of the LCA and jack up till I lift off my stands, wouldn't that basically be the same thing?
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
also, once I got it all together, i put the jack under the lca and jacked up a bit. I would have thought I would see the spring compress a bit and some articulation. the whole truck lifted off the jack stands.

Is that normal? Shouldn't i have some articulation? That's the whole point of having suspension. The UCA is actually touching the Top strut mount and when I jack the LCA up, the coil doesn't even compress enough to move the UCA any.

I also didn't mention that I have the leveling kit put on the top of the strut.
 

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Jacking up the LCA won't provide the same moment arm as putting weight on it from the tire/hub. You're pushing with a different force in a different direction. When you say "push it over" do you mean it's off front to back? Is the spacer sitting flush on the strut?
 

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Then yes, you normally have to compress the shock a bit to get it back into the LCA or UCA depending on which side you installed first.
 

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I just did my struts and I inserted the top of the strut first, and got the 3 nuts on, but I didn't tighten them down. Then I was just able to give the bottom of the strut a bit of nudging and they slipped into the bottom bracket, for the most part. On the drivers side, I had to push a bit more. Then I just lifted the lca with a jack to get the bottom bolt hole to line up.
I guess I've never heard anything about having tires on or anything before torquing nuts down on suspension components. Seems kinda odd as everything runs through bushings or is made to move in some way. Never had an issue.

Too bad getting the struts off wasn't as easy as getting them on. I had to cut 5 of the 6 top bolts on the struts, with a sawzall. The bolts started to spin in the top of the strut assembly, instead of the nuts coming off all the way.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Well, got everything together and dropped it to put all the weight on the tires.

The suspension did not give one bit.

And no, I have not torqued the UCA and LCA bolts yet.

As you can see, the UCA is actually hitting the strut mount.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Well, got everything together and dropped it to put all the weight on the tires.

The suspension did not give one bit.

And no, I have not torqued the UCA and LCA bolts yet.

As you can see, the UCA is actually hitting the strut mount.
 

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If your UCA is stuck underneath the bucket that's why it's not moving. It won't work until you clear the bucket, so you need to take it back apart and get the UCA over the bucket.
 

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Yes it looks like in the picture the arm is stuck on the bucket. You may have to do a little grinding on the buck or upper arm to get it to clear. Sometimes the aftermarket arms are not made identical to the factory stuff. They may be a little thinker or thinner in areas. This is why they recommend changing the upper arm to a aftermarket style like Dirtking. It will be tube and have all the clearance needed. You can make yours work just clear the area that is hitting. This is what I can see from the pics but it may be fine its hard to see.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Thanks for the replies. That was what I was thinking earlier on, but checked and saw it is hitting on the top of it, not under it.

Last night after some frustration, I jacked the truck up high and just dropped it. It actually bounced and I didn't hear any knock or contact noise.
Checked the clearance and I actually got a 1/4" of clearance. I think I am going to bounce it a couple more times and see if I get more, then torque it.

If I hear any rubbing later on as I drive, I will grind the bucket some.

Once again, thanks.
 

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I didn't see any reference to how much spacer you were putting in, but if it's too tall, you may also be bottoming out your UCA at the coil bucket. Grinding might help, but you may also need a UCA that's corrected for the lift. Also, did you install cam bolts? If not, your alignment guy may hate you. Good luck.
 
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