I have a 2006 Titan, i need to replace the RF rotor. One of the two caliper bracket bolts wont come out (21 or 22 mm). I have tried pb blaster and other oils, i have cracked a socket and almost burn up an electric impact wrench........HELP!!!
Stuck Rotor Bolt
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Joined
·
17,244 Posts
I think they use a thread locker that might be released upon application of heat (similar to red loctite 271 which requires heating to 482 F).
Joined
·
15,691 Posts
go to advanced auto and "borrow" there serpentine belt tool set, and purchase the correct socket to fit the big bolt on the caliper in 1/2in drive. (22mm??)
that tool kit, when put together gives you about 4 to 6 ft of cheater bar, mine turned like butter. the handle was out past the front bumper.
you have to pay for the tool kit, but when you bring it back they give you the money back. that is the way there tool loan program works.
make sure you have a ratchet that will turn the socket you bought. the tool doesnt have any rachet action, so once you loosen it, you switch to a regular ratchet and take it off.
that tool kit, when put together gives you about 4 to 6 ft of cheater bar, mine turned like butter. the handle was out past the front bumper.
you have to pay for the tool kit, but when you bring it back they give you the money back. that is the way there tool loan program works.
make sure you have a ratchet that will turn the socket you bought. the tool doesnt have any rachet action, so once you loosen it, you switch to a regular ratchet and take it off.
Joined
·
292 Posts
I just put rotors and pads on mine yesterday. Definitely need some heat to break down the thread locker holding them tight. I used a Mapp gas torch and that provided enough heat to break the bond. Without heat, you chance breaking off the bolt before it comes out. That will be a real pain to get out then. All four of my bolts broke loose with just a breaker bar and socket but then tightened up the more I tried to get them out. Air impact would not budge them. Used heat and they finally started to back out again.
Joined
·
209 Posts
Ditto on the 'heat'. I would use an shallow or regular depth 'impact' socket with the correct '6 point' socket that contacts the bolt head on all points of contact. 12 point regular 'thin' walled sockets will break or split, as you mentioned. Keep the heat concentrated on the caliper bracket ( not the bolt head or area the bolt goes through) this may mean heating the caliper, since this where the threads of the bolt fasten to. I wouldn't worry about ruining the caliper. Since this should be able to with stand heat in excess of the 400 degrees mentioned above. Also brake systems are designed to withstand heat in excess of what we're talking about.
Use a 3-4' breaker bar to get it broken loose, and then try backing it out using a 1/2" drive ratchet. Applying heat if needed. Once the bolt is out, clean it with a wire brush or wire wheel on a bench grinder. Brake clean will sometimes soften the thread locker. So spray liberal amounts of that into the caliper where the bolt threads in. Re-Apply thread locker as instructed.
Hope that helps.
Keith
[email protected]
Use a 3-4' breaker bar to get it broken loose, and then try backing it out using a 1/2" drive ratchet. Applying heat if needed. Once the bolt is out, clean it with a wire brush or wire wheel on a bench grinder. Brake clean will sometimes soften the thread locker. So spray liberal amounts of that into the caliper where the bolt threads in. Re-Apply thread locker as instructed.
Hope that helps.
Keith
[email protected]
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Join the discussion
Join now to ask and comment!