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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Have searched around the forum quite a bit but I can't seem to find a walk through of how to install a sub on a non RF system w/6disc. I've installed large amounts of sound systems but never integrated into stock. Will I need a LOC or does the Non RF deck have pre-outs like the RF deck?

I plan installing a Polk 8in MM840 in a tech12volt 8in underseat box with a Polk 880 momamp (already own everything but the box).

I also plan on dropping polk MM 6.5s in all the doors running of a Polk 660 4ch.

Any tutorials or info would be great!

Thanks
 

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I found it pretty straight forward. I pulled the headunit, tapped into wires for Rear speakers and wired in a LOC and a remote turn on wire, ran the remote turn on and RCAs out of the LOC to the back where I have the amp, good to go. I got the wire colors from installer.com I think. Most Nissan non-premium wire colors are the same, should be easy to find online.
 

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Have searched around the forum quite a bit but I can't seem to find a walk through of how to install a sub on a non RF system w/6disc. I've installed large amounts of sound systems but never integrated into stock. Will I need a LOC or does the Non RF deck have pre-outs like the RF deck?

I plan installing a Polk 8in MM840 in a tech12volt 8in underseat box with a Polk 880 momamp (already own everything but the box).

I also plan on dropping polk MM 6.5s in all the doors running of a Polk 660 4ch.

Any tutorials or info would be great!

Thanks
You will not need a LOC with your Polk 880 amp. I've checked their user manual and the amp does have a connection for high-level inputs (speaker wire connections). You'll need to have the small wire harness that plugs into the small 6 wire connector on your. If you don't have this, I suggest you attempt to find one on ebay or contact Polk or an authorized seller to get one. This will save you money from having to buy a LOC and provide a higher quality sound too.

The installation should be pretty straight forward with the exception of the remote turn-on wire and the speaker inputs to the amp. Before starting this project, please take the time and read through some standard amplifier installation manuals, I recommend starting with the Polk user guide from their website.
 

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I found it pretty straight forward. I pulled the headunit, tapped into wires for Rear speakers and wired in a LOC and a remote turn on wire, ran the remote turn on and RCAs out of the LOC to the back where I have the amp, good to go. I got the wire colors from installer.com I think. Most Nissan non-premium wire colors are the same, should be easy to find online.
Midnight, your ZX400.1 Kicker amp has a high-level input switch on the amp. You can utilize this instead of your LOC. If you find that you have some unwanted noise through your system, I suggest you remove the LOC and use this feature. This is what I'll be using in my Titan, same model amp too. Btw, I'm assuming you're using the 2011 model of the amp.
 

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It was a hand-me-down amp and I didn't want to spend money on the harness for the Kicker...plus everyone knows every guy under 30 that has installed systems for his buddies has a toolbox FULL of LOCs haha
 

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It was a hand-me-down amp and I didn't want to spend money on the harness for the Kicker...plus everyone knows every guy under 30 that has installed systems for his buddies has a toolbox FULL of LOCs haha
haha sure, maybe it's just me, but i despise LOCs because I'm very concerned with sound quality :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Wow completely forgot about the hi-level inputs, luckily do still have the harnesses for my polks. Feel like an idiot now. I've spent way way to much on car audio and installed countless systems but never with a stock deck. Have used hi-level inputs once before so that I can do.

So correct me if I'm wrong to remove the radio bezel just pry from the bottom and pull out, no screws for the bezel.

And I know I've seen one but can seem to find it again. Can someone post a link for the door panel diagram/walkthrough.

Thanks a ton!
 

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So correct me if I'm wrong to remove the radio bezel just pry from the bottom and pull out, no screws for the bezel.
So what you're gonna do is find the biggest screws you can, and screw them in to the bezel, one on each side of the radio. Make sure you screw them in all the way too!, then back them out about 2 full turns. Get two pair of pliers, and pull on those screws with all your might. Thats how you remove the bezel. :)


hahaha just kidding. don't do that.
 

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Yes, there are no screws holding the center piece in. Look at a kit for a titan at bestkits and that will show you the piece that comes out. It is the climate controls and around the radio all as one piece.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Yes, there are no screws holding the center piece in. Look at a kit for a titan at bestkits and that will show you the piece that comes out. It is the climate controls and around the radio all as one piece.

Thanks, I understand the piece that comes out, just a little hesitant since the truck is only a month old and under 2k miles. My first brand new vehicle ever. Oh well its not like I am making payments.

Like I said I have installed a huge amount of car audio (about $25k worth in the past 5 years). Just never on a vehicle I just dropped $35k on, so I am a little nervous. Should have the box and door speaker adapters on the way within a couple weeks and the install shall begin!
 
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