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I am just looking to see if it is absolutely necessary to go with synthetic differential lube. I have checked both here in Canada and in the US and it's $20 a litre (quart) for synthetic and like $7 for the regular non synthetic stuff. Thoughts?
 

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Synthetic gives the best heat dissipation, and is required for Warranty coverage. Not worth saving money ($35-40 total difference?) in that area imo.
 

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I am just looking to see if it is absolutely necessary to go with synthetic differential lube. I have checked both here in Canada and in the US and it's $20 a litre (quart) for synthetic and like $7 for the regular non synthetic stuff. Thoughts?
I wouldn't go with less than synthetic. …unless it's for a limited time~i.e. I just put in a trutrac and am running cheap conventional oil in the rear diff for a thousand miles for the break-in period, then I'm putting Mobil 1 full synth back in.
 

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Given the issues early model Titans have had with the rear differential I wouldn't put anything but synthetic in there. Mine gets changed about 30K miles.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I made a couple calls today and can get Royal Purple for around $17 a litre or Quaker State for $23. Both are full synthetic. Thoughts??
 

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Royal Purple has a good following on this forum.
 

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Well I finally did it and I think it was a good thing. Judging by the look of it I have a sneaking suspicion that was the original diff lube. I only drained out 1.75 litres compared to the 2 litres I put in.

Is it normal for it to smell or propane after it's drained. I have to tell you that was the oddest smell.

Anyway I went with the Royal Purple based on many things I read here. Next up will be the tranny, front diff and then the transfer case. I assume these are as easy as the rear diff?
 

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Is it normal for it to smell or propane after it's drained. I have to tell you that was the oddest smell.
Not propane - sulphur.
industrial gasses like propane and methane ('natural gas') are odorised as a safety measure, and that added odor is a 'rotten-egg' sulphur smell exactly so it will be noticed at small (pre-dangerous) levels.

Sulphur is also a high-pressure lubricant common in gear oils.

Next up will be the tranny, front diff and then the transfer case. I assume these are as easy as the rear diff?
Not quite, but not horrible. You will require a 10mm Allen for the transfer case and you -should- have new replacement aluminum crush washers. If your dealer is like mine, first they'll try to tell you there aren't any, then they'll tell you they're the same as the engine oil. Not.

Access is a little tricky for front diff and transfer case unles you're a contortionist but it's manageable.

You won't get all 15-or-so quarts of ATF out through the drain. Maybe 5-ish, the rest are in the torque convertor and the various coolers. If you're determined to change it all at once, there's a procedure for that which involves pouring new fluid in as fast as old fluid runs out with the engine running and transmission in neutral - it's not 100% efficient so it'll take something like 18-20 quarts to change 15.

Or - you can dump and replace the 5 quarts at a time as often as it takes for you to feel good about the total replaced percentage. Do that 4 times over the course of a summer and it'll be pretty darned good.

You have to swallow hard when facing the cost of 20 qt of Matic-J all at once... Lots of guys here are using Royal Purple ATF. My '05 is out of warranty, and I'm one of those Royal Purple-using guys. I have no issues but of course, I'm not going to recommend you do it. It's not cheap either...
 

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Well I finally did it and I think it was a good thing. Judging by the look of it I have a sneaking suspicion that was the original diff lube. I only drained out 1.75 litres compared to the 2 litres I put in.

Is it normal for it to smell or propane after it's drained. I have to tell you that was the oddest smell.

Anyway I went with the Royal Purple based on many things I read here. Next up will be the tranny, front diff and then the transfer case. I assume these are as easy as the rear diff?
lol..to answer your question w/o the science lesson, yes...that smell is normal for gear lube. I use rubber gloves because it's also hard to get he smell off your hands. Synthetics for sure need to go into the rear diff and be sure to use the correct 140W.
 
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