You can route the wires how you see most fit to your taste. The most hidden way would be to fish the wires down through one of the drainage openings on the bottom of the tailgate, behind the skin where it won't be seen, then anchor it on the bottom of the tailgate all the way to the corner, go under the hinge, then down under the truck. I had a HELL of a time trying to get the wires through (very cold fingers, fussy coat hanger, etc) so I said forget it. I used a nice factory hole on the side of the tailgate.
Special Note: If you would like the tailgate to unlock with your passenger door (two clicks of your keyfob to unlock) then while reading the instructions, switch "driver's side" with "passenger side." All routing of wires and minor disassembly should be just as straight-forward
Here's the process:
1. Anchor the wires inside the tailgate so they won't move around. I used an adhesive zip-tie mount. Pic 24
2. Route the wires either through one of the weap (drainage) holes at the bottom of the tailgate, or come through the side near the hinge where there is ALREADY a factory hole. Pic 25 (I used rubber tubing that came WITH my actuator to conseal the wire / look more factory. Pic 25
3. Once the wires are hanging behind the bumper, under the truck, cut them and crimp on your quick disconnects. This is where you will unplug for tailgate removal. Do NOT anchor the wires on the removable side. You will be tightly anchoring the other free end of wire that you are connecting to, the wire going into the cab. When the quick disconnects are connected together, the wire will be tightly held up and out of sight under the truck bed.
4. With a free length of wire, ~20 feet, start to run the wire from the rear bumper forward. Leave some slack, you can always trim off later. Follow the existing wire bundle in the black split loom. Zip Tie your wire along this. Black zip ties look the best. Make sure you tie it at each bend, and every 12 inches or so.
5. When the factory bundle turns towards the center of the truck, KEEP routing your wire forward on the driver's side frame rail. Do not follow the bundle at that point. You will use existing anchor points on the frame rail to mount the wire, OR use some handy adhesive zip-tie mounts (like Pic 24)
6. If you are laying under the truck and looking between the bed and the cab on the driver's side you will see a rubber plug with a face about 1" in diamater. (I have a king cab, the location might be SLIGHTLY different on the CC).
7. Taking note of that plug's location, go in your cab and fold the rear seat in the up position (seat bench stored against the back wall of the cab). If you pull back the carpeting that covers the back cab wall, starting in the lower right, you will reveal the other side of that rubber plug (about 1/2" diamater on this side). Pic 26, 27
8. Push the rubber plug out and poke a hole in the very center to feed your wire through. After all your wire is pulled through, put the plug back in.
9. Tuck the wire down and under the edge of the carpet, running along the driver's side floor edge. Carefully push the back wall carpet back in to place.
10. Remove the two sections of door sill covering the front and rear door floor edges on the driver's side. They just PULL out. Don't worry, if the plastic panel clips stick in the bottom of the cab you can pry them out and reattach them to the door sills later. Its not a problem. Start at the very rear of the cab and pull straight up on the sills, working your way forward. You will have to manipulate them by pulling back towards the bed at the end when you have reached the front.
Door sills removed: Pic 28
11. Simply route the wire through the HUGE gap in the floor between the cab's tub and the carpet. Try to go through the white plastic wire cover that goes along the driver's seat base. Pics 28 and 29
12. Remove the driver's side floor kick panel. There is one plastic clip UNDER the E-brake pedal that needs to be removed with a flat head screwdriver or panel puller tool. When the clip is out, JUST PULL back and to the right, manipulate it without flexing the plastic. It comes off pretty easy. Pic 30 Note: I have aftermarket door locks (XE) so my wires are different color)
13. Locate your door lock wires, coming in to the cab through the rubber tube between the door and the hinge area.
The wires going to your door lock actuators will be green and purple (violet).
14. Splice into each wire and make a TEMPORARY connection for now to test the polarity of the wires.
15. Go back to the loose ends of wire under the rear bumper and crimp on your other quick disconnects on the wire that is running under the truck to the cab. Connect with the wires coming from the tailgate. Anchor the wires coming from the cab tightly under the rear behind /under the taillight, or where ever you feel appropriate. Make sure the wires are tight enough to keep the independent end tucked up and out of sight and easily accessible to unplug when you want to remove the tailgate.
16. Make sure your tailgate is unlocked by key and your truck is unlocked/disarmed. Hit the lock button. If the tailgate locks, you can go make your connections permanent in the cab and clean everything up. If the tailgate unlocks, then go switch the wires and try again before putting things back together.
17. Go back to tailgate and watch inside the access panel when you repeatedly hit lock and unlock. Look for anything that shifts around when the solenoid moves. Does the wire strap stay over the rotating key pin? Does the handle still operate normally and the lever is not being interfered by the metal strap? Test everything, give your connections and zip-ties a once over and use ELECTRICAL TAPE over all connections to make more water/mud resistant. You will be glad you did later.
18. Put everything back together, you should be done.
I most likely forgot something, so let me know by post or by PM and I will be happy to walk you through this.
If you are local to me, come on by and I will be glad to help you out.
I was going to estimate the install time, but everyone's will vary. Initially, I spent two hours on the project, stopping to jot down quick notes for the How-To and to snap pictures.
Then, I went back and spent another hour cleaning things up and making everything look alot more presentable and took some better pictures. All together I spent about 3 hours on the install.
This should take you between 1 and 3 hours depending on your ability, hopefully less since you are not stopping to make a tutorial.
On a scale of 1 to 10, 1 being changing a flat tire and 10 being installing your own remove start alarm (pretty light scale :teethmast) this would be about a 3. Its a cinch, really.
The reason I went in to so much detail and had so many pictures was to make it easy for everyone else to duplicate with the least amount of "WTF?'s" possible.
Good luck! Hope everything goes smoothly. Again, contact me for help.