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Here is this site that has them. A guy on a dodge forum posted that site and I was looking around and always wanted to do this on the titan but never got around to it... They have some cool stuff there to..

Maybe this has been posted before, i dont know ha


KP Technologies
 

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My 2005 LE KC does that stock...up and down. And by the way I love it...
 

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My 2005 LE KC does that stock...up and down. And by the way I love it...
No. No it doesn't. Down only.

If yours somehow rolls them up it's been modified and is no longer stock.
 

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they have a few neat things i would like.
 

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i did my own window roll up mod with the help of someone from here on the forum and it cost me $25 an a bit of time.......i did sell them for some time but have no time to make any anymore. I can post how to make it if you guys want
 

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i did my own window roll up mod with the help of someone from here on the forum and it cost me $25 an a bit of time.......i did sell them for some time but have no time to make any anymore. I can post how to make it if you guys want
why WOULDN'T we want to see that info? :huh::bangit:
 

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Agreed^^^^^ post up a how too! Thanks
 

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No. No it doesn't. Down only.

If yours somehow rolls them up it's been modified and is no longer stock.
When was this added? My 09 CC front windows go both down and up. I do remember that my 05 went down automatically, but I can not remember if they would come back up or not by themselves.
 

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If it changed somewhere along the line, I'm not familiar with when. Honestly wasn't aware that even the newer ones would roll up from the fob. Donny states that his is an '05...mine is an '06 and I know that up to that '06 model year it was down only via the fob.
 

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What button is held to roll them up in the newer models?
 

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Good question, TB. I don't recall having ever read that this became available on any model year, until this thread. And if it did, what year??? Inquiring minds want to know for future reference.
 

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If it changed somewhere along the line, I'm not familiar with when. Honestly wasn't aware that even the newer ones would roll up from the fob. Donny states that his is an '05...mine is an '06 and I know that up to that '06 model year it was down only via the fob.
Oh, My bad! I didn't see that y'all meant through the key fob! I thought we were talking about the buttons on the doors. No, the key fob does not roll them back up, only down. You can use the key though to roll them up and down from the outside. That feature was available on both of my trucks.
 

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Anyone know if this unit rolls up the back glass? If so, it's worth $50 to me for sure.
and no you cant make the rear roll because it wasn't auto to begin with unless you do many wiring...lol
 

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Materials Needed:
(1) Multi-Purpose Timer Relay (found mine at altronics.com - part # 6062)
various lengths of wire, i used blue, purple, black & red..
(2) Standard automotive relays (5 terminal was used in the example but 4 will work)

Instructions (King Cab)
**The basic setup is the same for Crew Cabs however some of the wires have changed location, please look below at the crew cab edit if you're having trouble locating wires.**

Step 1: Remove your drivers side door panel, everything you need is right inside. Start by removing the plastic trim at the door handle, the door handle "puller" and the arm-rest. There will be (2) screws in the puller, (2) at the handle & (1) behind the arm-rest.. (first photo) Then the door panel will pop off, it's attached using orange push in fasteners. Next reach behind the panel and detach the cable going to the latch & door lock. Finally pop off the puddle light & switch panel. & disconnect the wires.

Step 2: Locate the following wires in the larger of the two harnesses that you disconnected from the door/window switch.

White/Red heavy gauge > +12 volts Constant
Black heavy gauge > Ground
Blue > lock cylinder wire

I slit the insulation on the door right above the speaker to chase my wires up to the door switch, there's ample room behind the door panel at this location to mount your timer. Strip each wire back and connect the wires here and make up your connections (I solder everything but to each his own)
(see picture 2)

You'll need an enclosure of some sort for the timer as it comes in just a cardboard box. I used an empty butt splice box since this was an experiment i'll pick up a plastic project box to finish it off.

On the switch panel I connected red to white/red, blue to blue, and black/yellow to black these wires hook up to the altronix timer using the following terminals.

Red to the + terminal
Black to the - terminal
A jumper from the - terminal to the NO (normally open) terminal
Blue to the C (common) terminal


Step 3:
The final wire we need to connect is the door lock wire, this wire is NOT located in the switch wiring. If you go to where the pull cables for the handle & lock come out of the insulation and slit the foam you'll find a bundle of wiring. The wire you want is the purple one, heavier gauge.
(see picture 3) This wire gets 12v pulsed to it whenever you trigger lock button on the keyless fob. Strip it back and connect a wire here, i used purple. Chase it over to the timer module and connect it to the TRG (trigger) terminal.


Timer setup. You need to set the dip switches on the 6062 timer module to the following settings:
1=OFF
2=ON
3=ON
4=ON
Then set the timer for just below 15 seconds, you may have to fine tune it depending on how fast your windows roll up.

**** Edit Addition of relays to require a double pulse to roll up windows ****
1) Disconnect the wire connected to the "C" terminal of the Altronix module this wire goes to the lock cylinder wire.
2) See diagram below to wire up the relays.

NOTE: This diagram is only good for King Cab Models, See Attached Diagram For Crew Cab Models


a) Connect the wires going to terminal #30 of both relays to terminal "C" of the timer module.
b) Connect the wire coming from terminal #86 of relay #2 to the "+" terminal on the altronix module. (12v+ constant)
c) Connect the wire coming from terminal #86 of relay #2 to the "TRG" terminal on the altrronix module. (trigger wire)
d) Connect the wire that was connected to terminal "C" in the original mod to the yellow wires (terminals #87 on relay #1 & #2)

- What this does is when you hit lock the first time, the timer starts, it then grounds relay #1 & #2 allowing them to activate. When you hit lock a second time relay #1 energizes, in turn energizing relay #2. Relay #1 only stays active for a second (due to the door lock pulse) while relay #2 will remain active until the timer expires.

*********** END EDIT ***************

*********** Crew Cab Edit ************
See attached diagram at the bottom of post for a crew cab diagram.
The CC and KC differ slightly but the connections are in the same location, when you disconnect the connectors on a crew cab you will have one sixteen pin connector, and one three pin connector. The power/ground for the windows/timer will be tapped into the smaller 3 pin connector..

1) Connect a wire from pin #19 (white with red stripe) to the (+) terminal of the timer module.
2) Connect a wire from pin #17 (black) to the (-) terminal of the timer module.

3) If NOT using relays for double pulse. Connect a wire from the (C) terminal on the timer module to pin #4 in the large white harness (blue wire) *note there are two be sure to pick the one in position #4!
--OR--
If using relays for double pulse, connect the wire from terminal #87 of the relay's to pin #4 on the 16 pin white harness.

*NOTE this to my knowledge does not affect the rear windows, unless your rear windows will roll up with the key in the door this mod will not cause them to do so!*
***** END EDIT *****

Notes/Disclaimers:
This mod uses all factory systems, so the limit switches and such all function exactly as they should. When the lock wire is triggered the relay sends a ground to the blue wire, tricking the truck into thinking that the key is in the lock cylinder being turned to the lock position. It then rolls the windows up, if one window is faster the limit switch kills the power to the motor so there shouldn't be an issues if one of your windows is down farther than the other.

The white/red wire has +12 volts on it at all times, if you touch this to ground while you're stripping it or making connections you're likely to blow a fuse. Disconnect the negative battery cable to prevent shorts.

The module is set for x time decided by you, if you have your arm in the window and roll it up it isn't smart enough to stop you'll have to wait for the limit switch to kick in or the timer to end, roll limbs up in the windows at your own risk.
 

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This design was made by one of our members name Pondtunes. Good luck with the constructing it.
 
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