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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys,

I have a 2007 that has some thick white smoke at start up, but not always. After 30 sec or so, smoking stops.

Oil level is good. Trans fluid level is good. Coolant level is good.

I've been trying to chase this down for awhile now, and I just can't figure it out. Shadetree mechanic at work told me it could be a head gasket and to try some Blue Devil gasket sealer. Tried that but to no avail. Engine light indicates codes 420 and 430, catalytic converter Bank 1 and Bank 2.

Also, possibly unrelated, there is a slight but stiff vibration for a few seconds upon takeoff from a stop. Feels like I'm driving over a bunch of those reflectors on the lines between lanes. This happens regardless of where I'm driving. Feels like it's centrally located, possibly the transmission. If I apply a great deal of accelerator, I feel it, but only from a stand still. If I attempt to pass, apply more accelerator to go uphill, or just to change speed at any time, it doesn't do it. Only from a standing start.Truck has plenty of power, haven't noticed any loss there.

I can do most of my own work, unless it's extremely involved in tearing things apart, so any help would be appreciated.

2007 Texas Titan SE
5.6L 149,000mi
 

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Codes 420 and 430 are bad news but the fix is a good thing, your truck will really move when its done. For that the best person to call is Jeff at Cajunbpipes.com, they are forum sponsors here and he can fill you in on the details. As far as the vibration under load I would check your transmission mount,u joints, etc. It is common for the transmission mount to tear though.
 

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Cats are bad. Cut that system out and get some headers and b-pipes and you'll be good as new.
 

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Yep. And while you're in there, change out your PCV valves, as they may be contributing to the white smoke as well.
 
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Yep. And while you're in there, change out your PCV valves, as they may be contributing to the white smoke as well.
And to piggy back on Dub, I would pull the valve covers and inspect for excessive sludge build up...
 

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Is it for sure smoke or could it be condensation? And does it do it when it's warm or just first start of the day?
 

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If you're 4x2 check the carrier bearing between the two rear driveshafts for excessive play.

Check every suspension bolt you can find.

I'm currently dealing with both the 0420 and 0430 codes, after a LT header install. All four sensors have been replaced and I can't find any exhaust leaks forward of the cat-back exhaust, though I have a number of pin hole leaks in the cat-back exhaust itself. I may replace my b-pipes to see if that takes care of it. I recommend you figure out why you're throwing codes before you go to LT headers.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks guys, all of you.

New questions:
1. Where do I find valve covers? Looked at link above with no luck, googled like crazy, still no luck...

2. What are "b-pipes"?

3. Is there any way to change the turning radius? This is the only aspect of the truck that makes me hate it! I have watercraft and it's a pain, not to mention parking garages!

I plan on replacing the valve covers, PCV valves, and would love to go to headers. BUT, this is my wife's daily, so since it's been acting up, we switched, she doesn't need any more power. As far as the cats are concerned, it hasn't lost any power just yet, it'll still sling the tires off the wheels!!

Thanks again!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
If you're 4x2 check the carrier bearing between the two rear driveshafts for excessive play.
Oh, another thing, possibly related to the shaft bearings, I have a vibration feeling like a tire slightly out of balance at around 65mph down to 45mph. When driving and applying power, no vibration. upon releasing the pedal (traffic ahead is slowing, or coming up to a turn), the vibration can be felt as the truck decelerates from 65-45. above that range and below that range, everything is smooth.

I have had the tires balanced and rotated, then had the truck aligned.

My next move is to start looking at all moving parts (shaft bearings above), wheel bearings, brake rotors, etc.

Suggestions?
 

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B-pipes are the pipes between manifolds/headers and exhaust system. They have our secondary set of cats on them.

Turning is what it is. Full size truck, full size battle ship turning radius.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
B-pipes are the pipes between manifolds/headers and exhaust system. They have our secondary set of cats on them.

Turning is what it is. Full size truck, full size battle ship turning radius.
Thanks. As far as turning radius, I drove a Ford 250 for work and it had a longer wheel base but tighter radius. So, I was just wondering.
 

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Yeah we used to have a 2007 Mazda 6 for my wife. That thing turned worse than my Titan did.
 

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I have no idea if they can be had cheaper, but Tasca (sponsor here on the forum, I believe) shows them here:

Factory Direct OEM Ford, GM, Mazda, Mopar, Nissan and Volvo Parts & Accessories Online

That's for a 2007 (though I don't know if there were any changes along the way from 2004 to present).

As for the turning radius, there's just not anything you can do except cut the truck and take a section out of the middle, then weld everything back together. It's a long wheelbase (even in the shortest config) and actually has a better turning radius than most trucks I've driven. Certainly better than the dodge ram it replaced at my house, and the Ford before that.

B-pipes are the pipes between your exhaust manifolds and the Y-pipe which feeds your muffler. They're called B-pipes because they're in the "B" position, as opposed to the manifolds (A) and Y-pipe (C) (which is called a Y-pipe due to it being shaped like a Y). Confusing, yes, but that's the story.

If you're getting the codes for cats, you will want to address that without a bunch of delay. Left unresolved, it can cause some long term damage to your cylinders. The single best solution is a set of long-tube headers, but that will almost invariably require uprev tuning or you'll burn the tops off your pistons from running too lean. Back in the day, we handled it with a rejet of the carb, but now you can't just toss in bigger jets and adjust the float.

The vibration definitely sounds like it could be carrier bearing (if you're 2wd) but it could also just be U-joints. I'm not a fan of tossing parts money at the truck to try to solve things, but if you're on the factory U-joints ($20-30 apiece), it might be a cheap try before you dive into the carrier bearing ($70-ish), though you don't save much.
 
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