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Discussion Starter #1
I just installed my mini-lift today after holding on to the parts for months. When i took it for a test spin I noticed a little clunk over bumps. Is this normal? Also, when installing I noticed a red paint mark on the coils before I took the coil-over assembly off. I was going to go off that mark to make sure I put the coil-over back in the same way with the red mark facing out. However, I had to turn the whole assembly 180 degrees to get the spacer to line up to the holes. Now that red mark is facing inward. Is this normal when installing the kit? Could this be causing the clunk?

Thanks,
Dom
 

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Mine has no clunk, but spinning the coilover 180 is normal, and has to be done in order to get it back in. This is normal, and would not be causing a clunk.

Actually, the clunk could be the a-arm hitting the top coil bucket when drooped. Can you tell when the clunk is occurring? On the down travel or up travel?
 

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Everything is normal as said above. The clunking your hearing is the upper control arm hitting the coil bucket. Now we don't know if you are 4x2 or 4x4 and did you purchase the 2" or the 2 1/2" lift? I've got the 4x4 with the 2" mini lift and I'm getting clunks when hitting a 90 degree turn hard but if I drive normal like a "GrandMa", it doesn't hit. When hitting bumps on the road I don't get any clunks either unless I make a hard 90 degree turn where one tire is going up and the other is going down. The one going down is the one that hits the coil bucket. If you just look at your coil bucket, you will see a nice shiny mark (dent) from the upper control arm then that is your problem. If you don't see it then it's something else.
 

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I think the sounds you hear are "normal" - I had the 2 and 1/2 inch Daystar kit on mine and had little "clunk-thunk" sounds driving down the street even as slow as 20 mph. I believe that as the weight is returned from to the suspension after being unloaded that there is a tiny bit of movement and it is perceived in the cab as a "clunk". I can't prove this is happening -- but i can report that since I installed my new SAW coilovers my clunking is gone...
 

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Evo,

How hard was it for you to install that 2" lift up front? Did it require an alignment afterwards?

And by 90 degree turns, I assume you are saying that you only get the clunking when you do sharp turns and drive agressively? So as your truck takes a hard lean to one side or the other it clunks on that side. Assumingly the coil bucket contact many have been talking about.?
 

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Freeze, install of the front spacers are easy. I'm not sure if we have a DIY write up here or not but ************** has a DIY section that has pretty good visual and detail on how to do it. I personally think the most confusing part is taking apart the front sway bar nut and pulling the bolt out. When I did mine, it was pretty obviouse that once you loosen the nut, it wasn't going to come out easy unless you take pressure off the bolt by jacking the lower control arm up a little. You will have to adjust the lower control arm up and down with a lift til you find the right spot for the bolt to slide out easily. The reasoning for loosening each side of the sway bar is to have room to take out the shock when all is unbolted. When I had mine done, the toe-in was affected greatly. When I measured it was out of spec about 1" on each side. So an alignment is a must.

Yes, I only get clunking when I hit a hard turn somewhat aggressive. There is not much room for play. Most will tell you that they don't get the clunking but most don't go over 3k rpm on their trucks so that tells you they don't drive their trucks too aggressive. The design of the Titan upper control arm is crap if you ask me. There is not much room for play especially when lifted slightly. With the 2" lift on the 4x4 or 2 1/2" lift on the 4x2, I recommend getting the PRG upper control arm. There will be more play and you can drive your truck as aggressive and as hard as you want. If you need more help on putting on the lift, just pm me and I can help you through.
 

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I don't think I was too clear on the clunking. When taking a somewhat hard right turn (or lean), the left tire side is the one who is making contact with the coil bucket because it's the wheel that's traveling downward. The clunking is from the downward travel. Same thing as making a sharp left turn, the right wheel side is the side that will hit the coil bucket because it is the wheel that is going downward, droop as some call it.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for the reassurance... It is a 2wd truck and i only notice the cluck when taking hard bumps, but if i take them slow i don't hear anything.
 

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Thanks Evo -

Very good info...I am really considering this, I now want the front lifted leveled with the back and I want some more aggressive or all-season 22" tires, instead of lowering the back to match the front.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I just had some nitto terra grappler 325/60/18's installed on my stock graphite wheels and the level kit with the tires look awesome. Also had the alignment checked and the only thing out was the toe.
 

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Could you please post some pictures of the truck?
 

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It seems like the front sits just alittle higher than the back. Thanks for posting the pictures.
 
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