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Discussion Starter #1
Has anyone tried drilling out the bottom channel of the factory Utili-Trac rail so you can slip through the TracRac clamp bolt? It appears like everything should line up; the clamp would rest inside of the Utili-Trac rail and the through bolt would pinch against the top of the rail (the die-cast foot wouldn't fit I don't think).

The Thule website sells adapters for Toyota's factory rail system but nothing for Nissan...

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You might see if the Toyota mounts will fit the Nissan rack (even with some slight mods to the mounts). Looks very much like it would fit, just based on what I've seen. They don't clamp into the holes on the inside face of the rail, so no issue with spacing or the size of the stops. Looks like the Toyota clamps just have a third section, in the middle, and are longer than the clamps you have. They have a flat bar and a screw which tighten the flat bar against the bottom of the rail, and a middle piece which has a tabbed shape to prevent it sliding out of the rail sideways. If you can find a store with some in stock who will let you "try them" you could know for sure.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
You might see if the Toyota mounts will fit the Nissan rack (even with some slight mods to the mounts)...
I purchased the 2016+ Tacoma mounts from walmart.com a few months ago just for :poop: and the geometry didn't line up (the tabbed middle piece was too thin to catch (our rails are "bigger")) along with a few other issues. They didn't line up in anyway that was useful to even attempt to rig them. Ended up returning them for a full refund. I see the Thule website additionally has '05-'15 Tacoma mounts but I'm highly skeptical those would work any better.

I'm half tempted to try my method, the worse that can happen is I'm left with a small hole in the bottom of the rail to drain water when it rains lol... My biggest worry is the metal screw pinching the top of the aluminum rail will eat into the aluminum (along with galvanic reaction) becoming loose over time.
 

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You could always try putting some hard rubber caps on the screws. Would soften your grip a smidge but probably not enough to matter. I'm surprised the yota brackets didn't work in some fashion, but good to know if I ever want to try it not to waste my time with the later model brackets.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Update: I went ahead and took a leap of faith, drilled out 1/2" holes and that did the trick. I needed to purchase new 2" bolts (to clear the Titan box on my passenger side) but they're actually easier to tighten with a wrench rather than an Allen key with the original 3" bolts. The die-cast feet were ground down to fit. Everything lined up fairly well, the front bar seems to skew the clamps a little more than the back bar. If I did it over again I would have drilled the 1/2" holes a little closer to the middle of the width of the rail rather than closer to the inside channel (just on the front bars). I'm not afraid of anything moving or slipping, pretty happy how it turned out.
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