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Does anyone have any tips on replacing Upper Control Arm bushings? Found out mine are bad and the nissan repair shop wants like $900 to replace them!
 

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buy MOOG uppers and replace the entire arm.
 

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Does anyone have any tips on replacing Upper Control Arm bushings? Found out mine are bad and the nissan repair shop wants like $900 to replace them!
Is that $900 parts and labor? OEM parts alone should be around $250 last time I checked. That's at least 5 hours of labor. I think I could do it at home in 3 hours, maybe. Passenger side is easy*, driver side not so much. Basic tools, but a ratcheting end wrench makes the job easier.

Buy the parts yourself online and take them to a local non-Nissan shop to get them installed.

* - Easy being a relative term in that I've done UCA's before, but it was 8 years ago so perhaps I've forgotten some of the pain. :)
 
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I just got dirt king uppers from TAP for an incredible price using TITANTALK code and installed them myself on SAT. It's really an incredibly easy job. Get yourself a long handle slim profile ratchet and get after it. Bolts in mine were came out really easy after I broke them loose.

Good luck.
 

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If you plan on lifting your truck at all they're worth it. And installing isn't really that hard unless you run into things not lining up properly like I did (thanks Nissan). Now that I've done them a couple times I can have em swapped out quick, it's just a PITA job to do.
 

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Buy Moog uppers and replace the entire arm.



Am I broken? I'm repeating myself again. lol
 

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We have our Titan bushing/ ball joint and heim/ uniball arms in stock and can ship out right away. Here is a link to our website for more info.

Dirt King 2wd/4wd 04-15 Titan Heim UCAs


Link to our website: Nissan Titan heimed Upper Control arms


Dirt King 2wd/4wd 04-15 Titan Bushing UCAs


Link to our website: Nissan Titan Bushing Upper Control Arms

I've been meaning to ask this for a long time, but how 'sealed' are the ball joints on those, and can you even get the LT setup in bushings? I ask, because while I am a ways out still, I WILL be hitting you up for an LT front setup once I have my front diff swap(Screw that flimsy M205)/mini-lift-adapter bracket setup figured out and fabbed. I won't do heims, I live dirt WAY too much, and bushings hold up better when semi-constantly with alkaline heavy clay mud. Same with sealed ball-joints. Unlike a u-joint, I don't feel the need to grease them every oil change. I generally prefer 'greasable' over 'sealed' But not on ball joints, I want them inaccessible to debris and salts.
 

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Buy Moog uppers and replace the entire arm.



Am I broken? I'm repeating myself again. lol
Yes, you're broken! But do post it one more time so you sound like my 11year old daughter when she forgets her ADHD meds on the weekend....
... However, your wisdom, as usual, is utterly intact, sir.
 

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Lee, I think you're on the right track to not use heims. I have heim joints on my PRG UCA and they are magnets for dirt, plus they're quite noisy. When my wife notices that they're noisy then they must be REALLY noisy.
 
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Lee, I think you're on the right track to not use heims. I have heim joints on my PRG UCA and they are magnets for dirt, plus they're quite noisy. When my wife notices that they're noisy then they must be REALLY noisy.

Heims are superior in articulation, performance, etc. the problem is, we don't own trophy trucks, where everything gets replaced/rebuilt every weekend, we need stuff that can be put away wet, and still work just as well next week, or next year, as it did when we first installed it.

I'm all about the high end of superior performance, but there's a line between high performance daily driver, and purpose built, ultimate performance machine, Once you cross that line, reliability is out the window and it's just constant maintenance just to keep it going. How long do you think DK's Z would last running I-25 between the springs and Greeley twice a day? Sure, It'll smoke everyone's civic the first time, but that night, he'll be stuck revamping and tuning, while in the morning, the dude in the stock coupe just rolls out of bed and turns the key. It's the same reason hardcore drag-drivers detest the bracket street legal guys. At the end of the night, they have to drain the fuel, pull the battery (if it has one), stuff it in the trailer with the tools, dispose of that week's tires, and drag it home.. the street legal guy.. tosses his helmet in the backseat and drives it to the bar.

I've wanted a DK LT setup since I first learned of them, but a few of the features seem to push that line (Particularly in an environment like ours), and that worries me with the amount of $ I plan to drop on it.
 
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