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Alright guys this isn't my problem, but a guy I came across. Every time he takes off his after market and factory wheels his studs break. He'll probably chime in here in a minute, I just got him to join lol. I don't know exactly what studs, but probably any input or advice would help if anyone has had this happen before. Thanks fellas.
 

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over torquing
Cross threading the lug nuts
water in the lug nuts when putting them on. Maybe try a little squirt of wd 40 in each lug nut before putting it back on. Maybe this is bad advice, but i did this all 80,000 miles on my 06 and never had a problem.
 

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Are they rusted when they break? Is it just the stock ones that break? Might be a good time to replace all of the studs... lol
 

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They break everytime I take my wheels off every stud on the truck has been replaced everytime I change wheels r tires and I put the lugs on with a four way so I can't tighten them to tight and I make sure they go on without cross threading idk what it is lol
 

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^^^ Agreed. Maybe a pencil necked geek like me can't over-torque using a lug nut wrench like unless I stand on it. I always use a torque wrench on mine and haven't had any problems. My wheels come off 2 to 4 times a year.

I wouldn't put any lubricant on the lug nuts threads.
 

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If you live anywhere other then the southwest states, keeping rust from building up on those studs is the answer....A dab of anti-seize and as others have mentioned proper torquing of the nuts is crucial...

Remember Nissan made a big mistake in running only 12mm wheel studs...they should have been 14mm......
 

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And the proper torque spec is???????

(then we need a thread with that one piece of info and a sticky)
 

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Wheel lug nuts are to be tightened to 98 ft/lbs according to the Nissan Titan 2007 Owners Manual.
 

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2004 Service Manual

When installing wheels, tighten them diagonally by dividing
the work two to three times in order to prevent the wheels
from developing any distortion.

Wheel nut torque: : 133 N·m (14 kg-m, 98 ft-lb)

Discount Tire has a chart that specs 105 ft-lbs for Titan, but 100 ft-lbs for 12 mm studs.

Wheel Torque Chart - Discount Tire

In many shops, they hammer them on with an impact and a 100 ft-lb torque stick, which may or may not be in the ball park to actual torque, depending on air pressure and impact gun used. My local Discount Tire always uses a torque wrench to tighten lug nuts.

I have been running 85 ft-lbs for several years based on recommendation by JetTech to perhaps avoid warping brake rotors.
 

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In my opinion most tire shops aren't doing you any favors the way they tighten lug nuts. They use the impact wrench to get the nuts tightened and THEN they use the torque wrench just to make sure they got the nuts tight enough. From my observation of the process they never get the nuts any tighter with the torque wrench as it clicks right away.

I start the nuts on by hand to make sure they aren't cross threaded. Then I use my impact wrench on setting #1 (of 3) to gently seat the lug nuts. Then I use setting #2 which gets them to about 90 ft/lbs. I finish it off with the torque wrench. It always needs about a half rotation of the wrench to get to ~98 ft/lbs.
 

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Excellent and accurate commentary! Perfect execution for proper torque too.

Use of anti sieze on studs, changes the torque required. it is called Dry vs Lubed. No specs exist for use of anti sieze on automotive studs; but do on bolts, it would be about 15-25% less if lubed. I have used anti sieze on an industrial water pump, and seen the bolts on the head come loose because the materials did not lock up the same, even though it went together easier. Its clamping power was the same; but the vibration of the application caused it to loosen up easier, as it would on a rim. I would never use lube on studs.

Metric Bolt Torque Table - CNCexpo.com
 
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