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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Yesterday I noticed my truck cranked longer than usual before starting, but still started and seemed to run fine. Today, it cranks, but won't even attempt to fire up.

I did as much reading up on this as I could and the common issue seems to be the ECM relay or the IDPM. I did have the ECM relay recall taken care of several months back, but went ahead and tried the suggested ECM and fog light relay swap, which helped none. I used my BullyDog to read the DTC's and got code P0340 Camshaft Position Sensor A Circuit.

If I'm understanding the electrical routing correctly, and electrical circuits are far from my specialty, it could still be the IPDM that is keeping it from starting. Or it could be as simple as the code states and be the Cam. Pos. Sensor.

Has anyone had these symptoms, possibly along with this code? If so, did you figure out what fixed it? Is this more often than not the IDPM or the actual camshaft pos. sensor? If switching the ECM and fog light relay didn't fix it, would swapping the IPDM effectively be doing anything different?

I appreciate any input as I hate to just start throwing parts at it without at least trying to narrow it down to the most common issues first. Thanks in advance for any opinions, suggestions, or experience. Also, I apologize for putting this in multiple sections, wasn't sure where it would get the most eyes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Camshaft Position Sensor got it running!!

Just in case someone stumbles on the apparently rare issue (as I couldn't find squat on it really), here are a few things I found after buying a Haynes manual and digging around.

-04-06 Titans have sensor on rear of driver side head. I needed a mirror and light to see it. I think I read the 07-up have it on the front of the driver's side head, though don't remember exactly where cause I have a 2006
- takes either a 9mm or 10mm to remove single bolt holding sensor in.
- harness is a little tricky, have to push in green clip before pulling off
- sensor itself takes some "encouraging" to remove due to o-ring to form good seal


I called couple of part stores, second place luckily had one in stock and happened to be open today (4th of July). Ran right at $25.

Overall, wasn't too bad, just tough to see and fit my fat hands back there. Started right up though and idles nicely so far. :redblob"
 
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That is very typical, just a bad sensor. Crankshaft and camshaft sensors will fail. Lots of times with no code given, or not until they have had intermittent failures many times. Common among many brands. I got me a Haynes manual a few weeks ago too, never saw one before.
 

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Camshaft Position Sensor got it running!!

Just in case someone stumbles on the apparently rare issue (as I couldn't find squat on it really), here are a few things I found after buying a Haynes manual and digging around.

-04-06 Titans have sensor on rear of driver side head. I needed a mirror and light to see it. I think I read the 07-up have it on the front of the driver's side head, though don't remember exactly where cause I have a 2006
- takes either a 9mm or 10mm to remove single bolt holding sensor in.
- harness is a little tricky, have to push in green clip before pulling off
- sensor itself takes some "encouraging" to remove due to o-ring to form good seal


I called couple of part stores, second place luckily had one in stock and happened to be open today (4th of July). Ran right at $25.

Overall, wasn't too bad, just tough to see and fit my fat hands back there. Started right up though and idles nicely so far. :redblob"
Dealer just quoted me almost $500 do swap out the cam shaft and crankshaft sensors. With your tip I think I'll DIY. THANKS.
 

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if my truck sits for any real length of time (5 hours-overnight) and I go to try and crank it, the first one takes longer every time. if I shut it down and try to restart it, it fires up perfectly everytime. its only when it sits for long periods. could this be my camshaft position sensor as well acting up or something unrelated? sorry if its unrelated, im just drawing blanks as to what it could be.
 

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Mine is a 2012 and does that. First start in the morning and it doesn't fire as lively as it does when it's warmed up.

It's not that the temperature is cold, it's normally 80 degrees before the sun even comes up, thought it was bad fuel or battery. As long as she fires, I'm happy.

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Mine is a 2012 and does that. First start in the morning and it doesn't fire as lively as it does when it's warmed up.

It's not that the temperature is cold, it's normally 80 degrees before the sun even comes up, thought it was bad fuel or battery. As long as she fires, I'm happy.

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its weird isn't it? it didn't do it until maybe 6 months ago. it has more "sputter" is all for that first crank. if it were the battery youd think the sputter would be sluggish.
 

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Mine is a 2012 and does that. First start in the morning and it doesn't fire as lively as it does when it's warmed up.

It's not that the temperature is cold, it's normally 80 degrees before the sun even comes up, thought it was bad fuel or battery. As long as she fires, I'm happy.

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My truck has been doing the same thing for the last month or so. Hasn't always done it, well if it did I never noticed it. It was starting to worry me but now that you say yours does it, it gives me some relief.


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Yea mine does it. I thought I was getting bad gas, but a few times I've taken it to a place with 100% gas and she still does it.

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2004 until 2006 carry one cam sensor and they are right head rear 2007 an up carry to and they are in front each bank.for u Gus with long crank before start you all might want to try a tune up
 

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I have 70000 kms on the truck, thought the plugs should be good for awhile longer but it's worth a shot seeing as I drive the sh1t out of the truck.


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im only at 11,500k. don't think I need a tune up just yet either.lol
 

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Coil packs and wire between the coil and the plugs. You can test them too to see if they are bad or good. I bought all new ones and tested each and one was bad out of the box.

Also just to let you know, the start circuit on the Titan is different then the run circuit thru the computer. Our truck is also very particular on voltage. variations and drops.
 

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Coil packs and wire between the coil and the plugs. You can test them too to see if they are bad or good. I bought all new ones and tested each and one was bad out of the box.

Also just to let you know, the start circuit on the Titan is different then the run circuit thru the computer. Our truck is also very particular on voltage. variations and drops.
Forgot about the wires an coil packs. Does msd make after market wires an cool packs? Anyone know.

How did you test them?
Edit: looked an got the answer i thought I would, msd doesn't make anything for Nissan.
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