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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all, so I had the ABS, SLIP, AND VDC OFF lights come on and took my Titan to Nissan. They replaced the two front wheel speed sensors and it still is having issues. They are telling me there could be something wrong with the tone ring and might need to replace the Axel. This sounds crazy to me. Anyone have any opinions?

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Why the front...did they say? Usually, the rear are the suspects and only because they get filthy dirty due to the construction of the e.brake design trapping all the crud around the sensors. The can be pulled and cleaned and usually the problem goes away. Tone rings are easy to diagnose....get a good flashlight and remove each sensor one at a time and while slowly spinning the wheel, look down the hole at the teeth. If one tooth is missing, may be your issue, but all should be intact. Of course you do this with the wheels off the ground and able to freewheel.

ABS sensors count the teeth during rotation, feed that data to the ABS controller and if it 'sees' one wheel rotating as a rate different from the others, it assumes a braking issue if brakes are applied, of a traction issue if the transmission is engaged in a forward gear, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Why the front...did they say? Usually, the rear are the suspects and only because they get filthy dirty due to the construction of the e.brake design trapping all the crud. Tone rings are easy to diagnose....get a good flashlight and remove each sensor one at a time and while slowly spinning the wheel, look down the hole at the teeth. If one tooth is missing, may be your issue, but all should be intact. Of course you do this with the wheels off the ground and able to freewheel.

ABS sensors count the teeth during rotation, feed that data to the ABS controller and if it 'sees' one wheel rotating as a rate different from the others, it assumes a braking issue if brakes are applied, of a traction issue if the transmission is engaged in a forward gear, etc.
They told me the front needed to be replaced because the wires were stretched due to the lift. I have a problem believing that they went bad at the same time when the light came on.

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If they were correct, the issue would have resolved itself. Since it didn't correct...they were wrong and the sensors + labor were an unnecessary expense. You shouldn't have to pay. FYI, a sensor can be tested with a mulitmeter....on OHM or continuity setting....and doesn't need to be removed to test. No OHM reading...wire is broken. Have reading?...then it's working and shouldn't be replaced.

This was a dealership?? What I just described is basic, non specific auto-mechanic knowledge. Any ASE certified mechanic with only one or two certifications would have known how to solve your problem in one step....test with the multimeter, if no errors, then pull and clean, .... while out, inspect the tone rings. Report findings to customer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
If they were correct, the issue would have resolved itself. Since it didn't correct...they were wrong and the sensors + labor were an unnecessary expense. You shouldn't have to pay. FYI, a sensor can be tested with a mulitmeter....on OHM or continuity setting....and doesn't need to be removed to test. No OHM reading...wire is broken. Have reading?...then it's working and shouldn't be replaced.

This was a dealership?? What I just described is basic, non specific auto-mechanic knowledge. Any ASE certified mechanic with only one or two certifications would have known how to solve your problem in one step....test with the multimeter, if no errors, then pull and clean, .... while out, inspect the tone rings. Report findings to customer.
Thank you very much. Any idea what it might be if not the speed sensors?

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There have been posts on this forum blaming an IDPM failure communicating with the ECM, but there are a number of diagnostics that need to be run to pinpoint a likely issue to delve into.. To not follow a set of rules for troubleshooting would be akin to doing your own brain surgery. You might get it right on the first try......or you'll end up a vegetable.

You need to find someone with the right tools (analyzer), right skills, and the necessary experience to decode your problem. I'm not able to do that for you. You may want to revisit that dealership and hold their feet to the fire on this as I explained earlier....and by all means, don't let anyone not a master mechanic touch your truck unless they're giving you a huge discount and a labor warrantee. If there are other dealerships in your area, meet with the service manager and explain what was done by another dealership and how that's not acceptable and you want to know how he'll go about having you get back on the road in what's known as first and final. First and final, means fixed first time and no call backs. Period.

If you brought it to me, the first thing I would do is go over the work already done to make certain the connections are solid, the sensors are in spec,...if all four wheels check out, next do an ABS controller diagnostic. Once the entire ABS system checks out, move on to ferreting out gremlins in other systems.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
NS4787 Have you checked your front wheel bearing and hub assemblies? My truck had similar issues as yours is showing, lifted up the truck and found out that both front wheel bearings were bad and needed replaced.
Thanks! I will take a look but the thing only has 60k on it. Every suggestion helps though!

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