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I'm looking order a Rough Country 6" lift for my 2013 pro4x 4x4. Wondering if I should buy a set of sway a way front coilovers? And also a set of bilstein 5100 rear shocks, or something entierly different? Any help greatly appreciated. I'm looking for the a nice height, with as close to stock ride quality as i can, and good quality lift.

Or just go with the PRG pro comp sway a way bracket lift performnce package?? It has a stage 1 peo comp lift, sway a way front coilovers, and rear bilstein 5100's?

what would be the best route? highest lift? any opinions suggest are great. looking to hopefully get a great lift, without spending a crazy amount of cash
 

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I would do an RC 6", coilovers, C-30 deavers in the rear and a block plus billstein 5125's for the rear. That would be a tall set up and ride great.
 

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a front sway-a-way would be a good choice, with the c-30 deaver, and bilstein 5125? Would i need new braided break lines? or tie rod ends, or any other parts, so the lift is complete? dont want to order, and bring to the shop for installation and then something not be right. I'm not overly familiar with most of this, never lifted a truck before.
 

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The saws would replace the front spacer. You'd need bracket lift coilovers. As for the rear, the deaver pack will give you 3" of lift IIRC, so you just need to get a block that sets you level with what you gain the front. So, if you gain lets say 7" up front, and the back with C-30's sits 3" lower, then you will need a 3" block. The RC kit is complete with what they sell with it but the coilovers deavers and C-30's will make it a lot taller and ride great. That's the route I would take over just the standard kit. Add the 5125's over the crappy shocks with the RC kit and your rear is set. I would get CST endlinks gor the front or take the sway bar off as the RC ones aren't that high of quality. After that the front os pretty set.
 

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also rough country traction bars would be needed to correct??
and would i need a drive shaft spacer? and would it be better to buy a better heim-jointed sway bar end links, and 4wd transmission mount?? looking at prg's kit:

PRG Products
 

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also rough country traction bars would be needed to correct??
and would i need a drive shaft spacer? and would it be better to buy a better heim-jointed sway bar end links, and 4wd transmission mount?? looking at prg's kit:

PRG Products
 

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also rough country traction bars would be needed to correct??
and would i need a drive shaft spacer? and would it be better to buy a better heim-jointed sway bar end links, and 4wd transmission mount?? looking at prg's kit:

PRG Products
Personally with coilovers I would ditch the sway bar. You may end up not needing the drive shaft spacer. That would be something to assess once the lift is installed. If you wanna spend the cash for a part you don't need than it isn't a bad idea. As for the trac bars look up metalworxlv. The RC trac bars have had some issues and can be noisy, but people tend to be happy with metalworxlv bars.
 

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ok, so let me see if i have this straight, i will need:

RCX 6" lift
front sway-a-away coil overs for 4-6" bracket lift
real bilstein 5125
c-30 deavers for rear
3-4" block for rear(thinking front will be 7-8", so 4" with 3" c30 will give level or 1" front rake)
either cst/prg end links, or remove sway bar
tracton bar from somewhere, need to look into it.

will removing the sway bar hurt anything? I do mainly street driving, with some off road, but the truck will also be used for long hauls, with my family. Thinking leaving them on may be better for me. Could use what rough country provides or order different sway bars and end links maybe?
and what do you mean the saws will replace the front spacer? and would i need the saws with res or just normal ones, both are for bracket lited titans. thanks!
 

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The sway bar just lessens body roll. Most people take theirs off. And what comes with the rcx for endlinks is alright but they are known to snap. As for the coilovers replacing the spacer, bracket lift coilovers are longer so you dont have to use the long *** strut spacer with the kit. And I would do external resi but it doesn't really matter since you don't off road much.
 

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No my truck is on road 90% of the time, offroad 10%, so was debating if the extra 200 is worth it or not.
I was just worried with the sway bars off it may not be as good for long distance/highway drives, but if it is i have no issues removing them.

would i need to buy new front/rear break lines?

thinking buying the driveshaft spacer, and heimjointed sway bar end links from prg may be a good option, just for reassurance lol.
 

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I would get the brake lines. When we installed the rough country lift on Maddox's truck, another forum member, his brake lines were pretty stretched.
 

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Is it just the front?? i noticed on prg's website, which i think i will order alot from, only have front braided break lines, not rear.
Want to make sure i got everything figured out, and as much knowledge on what im buying so i can order everything and have it all installed hassle free.

I should gain 7-8" up front, and with a 4" block for back should get 8" for rear, is this correct? i want it to sit level, or a bit of a forward rake, not rearward rake.

Also, with this set up, will i be able to fit a 35x12.5 on a 18x9 with a big offset? or even a 37?? I'm looking for a nice big, and wide tire, with a nice aggressive wide stance. I have no mudguards now, but dont really want to do a pwm as i dont have a clue how and dont really want to mess with it.

thanks alot for the help!! Hoping to get this bought, and a new exhaust bought in the coming months and installed.
 

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The brake lines are just for the front. We had no issue with this lift in the rear, when dealing with the brake lines. As for the tires, you could clear 37's with a decent offset, or go pretty damn wide with 35's. If you want max height, I would also look into a set of UCA's so you can crank the coilovers up and not have CBC. With the co's cranked up you'll be able to most likely go a bit wider on the stance.

The PWM is easy man. All you do is pull your fender liner back and look at the little pinch weld that is behind it. You just shave that a bit if you rub and use a heat gun to reform the liner. I was able to clear 35's with just stock rims and a 2.5" spacer with minor trimming of the liner, and don't really rub minus on an incline at full lock. I could have done the PWM and had zero issues, but was lazy and just trimmed the liner. It really wouldn't be hard to do the other, just involves reforming that liner.
 

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When installing a leveling kit on my truck, found 3/4 of the shocks were blown after 27,000 miles... After leveling the truck, I have decided that's as high as I want to go. With that being said, I am leaning towards buying Bilstein 5100's for the front on the middle perch and removing the spacers. I can't find Bilstein 5100's for the rear. Think 5100's in the front and 4600's in the back will be ok?
 

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Read your awesome post on lift kits. My question I have is you mention CST for 4X4, I have the CST 8" for my 2wd which I'll be installing shortly. Is everything you mention about the 7" CST 4x4 the same for the 2wd? Wanna make sure I get everything right when installing it. I'm also installing a 3" body lift and running 20' rims
 

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Bought and installed the Pro-comp stage 2 lift with driveshaft spacer on my '11 Pro-4. Driveline vibrates like all hell, down to less than 3 turns lock to lock on steering, the electrical lines for speed sensors to the rear axle are too short, so no 4x4, ABS, TCS, VDC, etc. Anyone else have these issues? Pro-comp sells a separate 30$ rear block shim kit to eliminate hard rear driveshaft angles. Why they dont simply include it and adjust the price is beyond me. Going to grind the stops down to try and restore steering. But with the wiring, I cant imagine mine is different than all the others. Shouldnt they have anticipated this? Is there a simple solution, or is splicing the only option? Not overly impressed with the kit for the money just due to the problems, but it makes a good looking lawn ornament. LOL.
 

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pretty common thing with the pro comp lift is to grind the stops down. also did you flip the tie rod ends like the instructions say? my pro comp lift was trouble free other then i broke the sway bar end links all the time. its one of the most reliable and easy lifts to install there is.
 

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The spindle stops also wear themselves down over time. Mine were all notched in within the first 3 months. This is where I'm thankful to have a short wheelbase. -lol....
 

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I dropped it at a shop to make right as I'm away at work for a few weeks and need the truck done, and they said everything was done right, but it needed a shim kit for the rear blocks to maintain rear driveshaft angle, they ground the stops down and said the steering is good, but the front driveshaft has about a 20 degree angle to it and is binding. They said I should opt for an aftermarket setup that would fix it. Anyone else run into this issue? It was definitely vibrating like all hell. They also spliced the wires to the rear speed sensors and got the 4x4, abs, vdc and traction control working again, as the wires were too short to accommodate the lift.
 
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