I am having the Exact same problem. At first I thought the setting were out because I recently used a Bully dog controller but I set it back to stock and it's still doing the same thing. Just dies as I am driving and no fault codes. Good luck with your search I'll let you know if I sort it out.
Firstly I would advise everyone to rule out fuel pump right off the bat.
There is a quick disconnect under the intake cover that you hook your pressure gauge to.
The procedure has you check it at stall speed but if you can test drive the truck with the gauge secured until it shuts off and you can see if the fuel pressure is dropping at the rail or if pressure is good
Secondly I would check your grounds. There are two under the hood by the battery, one behind it and one beside the basket that the ground cable is on and has a bolt through the little frame.
Then on the drive side under the instrument panel which just has screws in there are two grounds one right by the steering column and one towards the center of the dash to the right of the visible space the bolt is only accessible with a wrench. I would not of been able to find it if I didnt have the service manual to reference. It is basically right next to the radio and such.
I dropped the panel and removed the grounds and scuffed the painted surface up and applied electrical grease and put back on.
There is also one on the passenger side glove box area that I did not do yet. The two under the driver side are for a lot of crucial components.
Then there are two IIRC on the manifolds. The one on the passenger side you can see by kneeling by the wheel and following the rear part of the control arm towards the engine there is a decent side bolt on the engine maybe say 14-15mm that has two tiny ground wires. If I am thinking right these grounds control the coils and the O2 sensors so to the OP maybe check these grounds.
There is a 'system active' test which can be preformed by turning ignition on and hitting the door switch ten times turning ignition off and back on. This should cycle;
Auto Active Test EKS00ARC
DESCRIPTION
In auto active test mode, operation inspection can be performed when IPDM E/R sends a drive signal to
the following systems:
– Front wipers
– Tail, parking, and license lamps
– Front fog lamps
– Headlamps (Hi, Lo) (Daytime light system if equipped)
– A/C compressor (magnetic clutch)
– Cooling fan
OPERATION PROCEDURE
1. Close hood and front door RH, and lift wiper arms away from windshield (to prevent glass damage by
wiper operation).
NOTE:
When auto active test is performed with hood opened, sprinkle water on windshield beforehand.
2. Turn ignition switch OFF.
3. Turn ignition switch ON and, within 20 seconds, press front door switch LH 10 times. Then turn ignition
switch OFF.
4. Turn ignition switch ON within 10 seconds after ignition switch OFF.
5. When auto active test mode is actuated, horn chirps once.
6. After a series of operations is repeated three times, auto active test is completed.
IPDM E/R (INTELLIGENT POWER DISTRIBUTION MODULE ENGINE ROOM)
PFP:284B7
System Description EKS00AR8
IPDM E/R (Intelligent Power Distribution Module Engine Room) integrates the relay box and fuse block
which were originally placed in engine compartment. It controls integrated relays via IPDM E/R control circuits.
IPDM E/R-integrated control circuits perform ON-OFF operation of relays, CAN communication control,
etc.
It controls operation of each electrical component via ECM, BCM and CAN communication lines.
CAUTION:
None of the IPDM E/R integrated relays can be removed.
SYSTEMS CONTROLLED BY IPDM E/R
1. Lamp control
Using CAN communication lines, it receives signals from the BCM and controls the following lamps:
Headlamps (Hi, Lo)
Parking lamps
Tail lamps and license lamps
Front fog lamps
2. Wiper control
Using CAN communication lines, it receives signals from the BCM and controls the front wipers.
3. Heated mirror relay control
Using CAN communication lines, it receives signals from the BCM and controls the heated mirror relay.
4. A/C compressor control
Using CAN communication lines, it receives signals from the ECM and controls the A/C compressor
(magnetic clutch).
5. Starter control
Using CAN communication lines, it receives signals from the ECM and controls the starter relay.
6. Cooling fan control
Using CAN communication lines, it receives signals from the ECM and controls the cooling fan relays.
7. Horn control
Using CAN communication lines, it receives signals from the BCM and controls the horn relay.
CAN COMMUNICATION LINE CONTROL
With CAN communication, by connecting each control unit using two communication lines (CAN L-line, CAN
H-line), it is possible to transmit a maximum amount of information with minimum wiring. Each control unit can
transmit and receive data, and reads necessary information only.
1. Fail-safe control
When CAN communication with other control units is impossible, IPDM E/R performs fail-safe control.
After CAN communication returns to normal operation, it also returns to normal control.
Operation of control parts by IPDM E/R during fail-safe mode is as follows:
Like the whole idea of the CAN communication and less wires and so forth but to diagnose with hand tools they make it hard.
I installed a brand new IPDM in my '05 which had the white one (which I had tried replacing just the relay) and the first test drive first thing I notice my windshield washers don't spray. Get 1.5 mi into the drive and the truck falls onto its face worse than it was before. Wasn't dieseling but just stumbling and dying and wouldn't start for extended periods of time (10min it felt like).
Got it home and was disgusted after spending $300 and having something fubar. Go down and throw the code reader on it and the first and only code I got was a p0335 (crankshaft pos sensor).
So I pulled what info I could up for the crankshaft pos sensor and finally located the quick disconnect under the hood for the fuel line. Checked fuel pressure and it was good and did not fall off when truck shut off.
Bring it home get out the multi-meter and check the readings for the crank sensor everything is with-in spec. During this process I disconnected and reconnected the crank sensor which was a PITA.
Father hooked leads up to it and took it for a test drive one Sunday with my mom and put over 50mi on it and it would not shut off for him.
I put an additional 50-80mi on it with no symptoms and then one day bang it killed my heart. Long story short I rolled under it again after this last time and unhooked and replugged in the crankshaft postion sensor and just put another 200mi on it like nothing was ever wrong.
This thing is pulling at my heart strings after just rebuilding the transmission and getting used to sitting behind the wheel again.
This is my course of action;
1) First I need to pull washer container out to diagnose the motor, see if the motor is fried or something when I changed the IPDM or wire issue?
2) Pull grille and access A/C condenser fan I think its called and put power to it and see if it is good or not. I think I seen a recall on these for faulty motors and some cases of wires decently far up in the harness getting fried.
My truck would not cycle the fan during the system active test nor blink the oil gauge.
I want to get those two systems functioning and make sure that has nothing to do with my issues.
I did not realize the amount of wiring specific issues these trucks had and after reading a lot of complaints off of google I was more broken lol.
Also going to check all the circuits and do resistance checks on the components I can like the ECM and bcm first.
Good luck happy hunting.
Search '2005 Nissan Titan Service manual' on google and there is a nissan group that has it available.
I also have two threads I posted that has the symptoms I was experiencing.
I thought I was in the clear because I had no funky dash or the ABS slip and so forth lights on.
Just remembered they had a recall on the crankshaft or camshaft pos sensor I guess a batch got mixed up and one was placed in place of the other or so on. If you search this info is also readily avail.
Also check harness at rear of truck that runs up under bed specifically by the tail pipe flange that is known to rot off at the clamp
