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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Titan was dead when i tried to start it a couple weeks ago. Local shop diagnosed it as IPDM(ER). Couldn't replace because when replacing it, apparently needs reprogramming and they don't have access to the reprogram tools.

Towed to dealer gave them local shops diagnosis. Dealer says fuel pump, replace the fuel pump, no start. Fuel pump is no charge from dealer. They take local shops reccomendation, replace IPDM(ER). No start. Reprogram keys, NATS etc. No Start.

Just called me, say maybe the remote start I had installed is the cause. Went to dealership, totally removed the remote start, cut the wires, taped her off, remote start back in the box. They reprogram whatever.... No Start!

What in the hell is up!?!? I don't know what to do either, they are pulling no codes on the OBD, I guess I gotta let them just start part swapping.

Ahh soo frustrating!
 

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year, Mileage??

Is it not turning over or it turns over but no fire??

The IPDM can be swapped without a reprogram. I know I just replaced mine, took a whole 10 minutes and have 200 miles on it.

Have they even checked spark? with todays super smart vehicles a lot of mechanics forget the basics. Is there fuel pressure in the fuel rails? Have they pulled the timing chain covers too see if the timing chains are good and to verify timing? is it getting air? what about the ECU?

No fuel pressure but new pump. Could be fuel pump relay. check power to pump when starting.



good luck, let us know what they find.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the reply. 2004 with about 70,000 miles.

I think they are too damn worried about what the computer says, and their computer is saying nothing. they did have fuel pressure, that much is verified. the original shop that looked at it, had showed me where 4 of the cylinders were not firing and that is why they claimed IPDM.

I have told the dealership multiple times that 4 cylinders were not firing and which ones weren't. They said they don't understand how they can tell me 4 werent firing when they can't get it running!?

I dunno much about engines etc but I know if 4 cylinders aren't firing, it probably will not start!??
 

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Ok thats a start. 4 plugs have spark 4 don't. Need to look at what sends power to the coil packs at the plug or maybe those coil packs themselves. There is all sorts of things that can cause this. Timing is one of them. Did they say which plugs had fire. was it scattered are on one bank. if on one bank (one side) then the timing might be the answer. There is ignition module that could be hosed.

I am almost leaning to the ECU for some reason. The IPDM is nothing more than a glorified fuse panel, I bet it has little to do with ignition.

It's going to be something simple that these computer trained ''mechanics'' aren't trained to figure out. I wish I new more about this new electronic stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for your insight. I pulled out my paperwork from my original local mechanic. It shows the Titan Firing order and which coils aren't firing.

The Titan apparently fires 1,8,7,3,6,5,4,2

My truck is not firing 1,7,6,4 - so every other isn't firing and they are not all on one bank, 2 on one, 2 on the other.

The tech's notes also say replace PCM, I am not sure where I got IPDM, maybe i was thinking PDM, but anyway the IPDM got replaced in my truck still no go.

I have some wiring specs etc and I don't see a "PCM" in our trucks, I see a BCM. I'm thinking maybe ECU.

I'm also wondering if in fact my remote start system could've caused this, I don't see why after 2 years though of having remote starter it would all of a sudden flake.
 

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remote start didn't do it.

PCM and ECU could very well be all in the same, if the mechanic is calling the PCM the ''brain'' of the system.

I wonder if a ECU reflash would help??

Something between the ECU and ignition module is telling the plug coils not to fire. It will be in that area. Even though it's all computerized it's still point A to point B and maybe to point C.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks that's what im thinking is that my original mechanic is meaning ECU, that's why he said they couldn't do it, it would need a reflash etc.

I bet the ECU is going to be pricey if that's the case. I wonder what would have caused the ECU to go if that is what it is, have they been having problems?

I didn't think that the Remote start would do it, it doesn't feed into the ECU or tap any wires out of the ECU. I have an AVIC N1 Navi system in there too but nothing taps the ECU.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Update.... They say that they believe the problem lies in the ECU, but they found a blown 40A Master fuse or somthing, and it had to be ordered, won't be in until Tuesday morning, then they can proceed. With what? Who the hell knows!
 

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what a PITA for sure. with todays modern computer controled vehicles the Mechanics are helpless unless they can read a code.

At least they are making headway.
 

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Did you have any luck with the blown fuse? I have a 2005 4x4 Crew Cab LE with the same problem. No codes either. Pump was already replaced.

A mechanic got the truck to start by connecting a wire from a fuse to the coil pack wiring. It starts every time and runs without any problems. Remove this ugly patch and truck goes dead again. Apart from this noone knows the real cause of the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Man, sorry to hear. The real cause will never be known on what broke my truck hell or what fixed it.

They replaced the fuse and the IPDM, and the vehicle wouldn't start. I still am not sure but I think they definately screwed somthing up on the programming. I had already removed the DEI remote starter but had left the harness in. They claimed they needed me to remove the harness as that could be "backfeeding" etc etc.

I removed the harness, next day "automagically" my truck runs. Their claim, DEI Remote starter caused the problem. Will I ever know..... Nope, do I believe that claim.... Nope.

Anywho, "knock on wood" over a month and she is fine. I have 1 year warranty on the work so im not putting the remote start back in, to hell with it. Funny thing is, truck ran fine for nearly 4 years with the remote start.

Who knows..... good luck man!
 

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It seems like once a remote start goes in dealers will blame everything in cluding flat tires on them.
 

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I hope you figure out what it is because mine wont start either :ugh: time to call the stealership
 

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My Titan is in the shop this very minute has been for four days now. Local mechanic indicated it could be the ECU. Dealer shop confirmed ECU. now they are saying multiple errors are not allowing the truck to run right after replacing the ECU. Problem originated with 75K miles. I pulled up to the stop sign and it died. would run very rough idle at less than 100 RPMs. ECU is a warranty product for 8 yr 80K. I just wish they would pay the tow of $250. Please tell me that there are only so many issues one truck will go through.
:domohit:
 

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Although all vehicles will have some ECU failures, I am not aware of it being a real common problem. But it is a complex computer really, and any failure or cracked circuit board, will shut it down. On the issue above, the 40A fuse should have been found earlier it seems.

I had a two complex seeming failures in one month on fleet vehicles, both caused by loss of ground from Engine to Frame. Ground is typical stranded flat braid material, and it had simply worn and arced in exact middle. I ran a Copper Battery Cable to restore path, and all was well. Ground Path is critical for electronics, and must be like original connection points, as much as possible.
 

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Ya I had the ECU issues last week and now the dealership wants to install a new IPDM(ER). What's next NISSAN? They don't want to pay for towing costs, they don't want to pay for parts related to the failure of the ECU but hey you can voice your concern at 1800 nissan1. they will look at a case by case basis to determine if you need to be reimbursed for any Inconveniences you may have gone through.

on another note.

What Emission Control and Emission Related Parts Are Covered by The Design and Defect Warranty?
An emission control part is any part installed with the primary purpose of controlling emissions. An emission related part is any part that has an effect on emissions. Listed below are some examples of parts or systems which fall under these definitions. A more complete list can be found in your owner's manual/warranty booklet. If any of the parts listed below fail to function or function improperly because of a defect in materials or workmanship, causing your vehicle to exceed federal emission standards, they should be repaired or replaced under the emissions warranty if your vehicle is less than 2 years old and has been driven less than 24,000 miles. One manufacturer may use more parts than another, so the following list is not complete for all vehicles.

EMISSION CONTROL PARTS
Exhaust Gas Conversion Systems: oxygen sensor, thermal reactor, catalytic converter, dual-walled exhaust pipe
Exhaust Gas Recirculation System: EGR valve, thermal vacuum switch, EGR solenoid, EGR spacer plate, EGR backpressure transducer, sensor and switches used to control EGR flow
Evaporative Emission Control System: purge valve, fuel filler cap, purge solenoid, vapor storage canister, and filter
Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) System: PCV valve, PCV solenoid
Air Injection System: Air pump diverter, bypass, or gulp valve, reed valve, anti-backfire or deceleration valve
Early Fuel Evaporative (EFE) System: EFE valve, thermal vacuum switch, heat riser valve
Fuel Metering System: electronic control module (unit) or EFI air flow meter, computer command module or mixture control unit, deceleration controls, electronic choke, fuel injectors, fuel injection units and fuel altitude compensator sensor, bars or rails for EFI or TBI systems, mixture settings on sealed fuel mixture control solenoid, diaphragm or other systems, fuel metering components that achieve closed/other feedback control sensors/loop operation switches and valves
Air Induction System: thermostatically controlled air cleaner, air box
Ignition Systems: electronic spark advance timing advance/retard systems, high energy electronic ignition
Miscellaneous Parts: hoses, gaskets, brackets, clamps, and other accessories used in the above systems
EMISSION RELATED PARTS
These are examples of other parts of your vehicle which have a primary purpose other than emissions control but which nevertheless have significant effects on your vehicle's emissions. If any of these parts fail to function or function improperly, your vehicle's emissions may exceed federal standards. Therefore, when any of the parts of the following systems are defective in materials or workmanship and have failed in a way that would be likely to cause your vehicle's emissions to exceed federal standards, they should be repaired or replaced under the emissions warranty:

Fuel Injection System: fuel distributor
Air Induction System: turbocharger, intake manifold
Exhaust System: exhaust manifold
Ignition System: distributor, spark plugs, ignition wires and coil
Miscellaneous Parts: hoses, gaskets, brackets, clamps, and other accessories used in the above systems.
What Are Specified Major Emission Control Components?
There are three specified major emission control components, covered for the first 8 years or 80,000 miles of vehicle use on 1995 and newer vehicles:

Catalytic converters.
The electronic emissions control unit or computer (ECU).
The onboard emissions diagnostic device or computer (OBD).

http://www.epa.gov/obd/warranties.htm#16
 

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Me too - I've had a similar problem on & off since February. First two times
truck completely dead & dealer found nothing. A couple of months ago is the third time & dealer concludes that it's the battery & replaces battery. Yesterday, truck is (again) deader than Elvis & AAA tests the battery, gives me a read-out of the voltage (2.7) and NO amps, gives me a jump to get me to the dealership. Today dealer calls & says that he can't find anything wrong with the truck despite selling me a battery that I (perhaps) didn't need.

Any ideas ????? :dunno: :dunno: :dunno:
 

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Sonora Nissan in Yuma Az, what a joke my truck has been there 3 times and it gets pulled home by one of my buddys everytime, with something else wrong everytime. First off i got a 2006 nissan titan the truck has been modified to no end. Long travel and all that good stuff. So gave them a call before i went out to the sand dunes with family cause rookie mistake on my part tighting down my intake i had a wrench fall out my pocket and arc the postive post on the battery while running well of course it died so check fuses wire everyting looks straight so i figure h*ll minus well give them a call maybe someone can give me a idea on what to look for. So i call them and they tell me ummm well im not to sure check your fuses and then they go on to say oh yea the truck has 3 recalls by the way so i bring it in. The fuel relay on the idpm the fuel pump and a condesor that i didnt even have needed replaced so they scratched the 2 and fixed the relay then about 3hrs later i get a call saying Hey were not getting any power threw my your ecm and you have a couple wires ripped up on your engine harness. So i cut the cost get a $500 OEM engine harness and $600 dealership ecm. Took it to them today not even sitting in the waiting room for more than 10 mins and they come out saying your BCM cant get power threw it were getting a pin code? So i am at a total loss. Asked them what can i do and told them i aint made out of money so???? He says well we dont even know what to do seeing is how it been really modified were lost it will cost you about $100 $150 and hour for us to just to find out the problem. So i called someone again to have me pulled to a close family friends shop that just works on import type cars. so hopefully he can figure it out. But if anyone could give me some hints, tips, tricks i would really appreciate. H*ll you could even or call me im barely on the computer as it is. Just Ask for Larry 928-750-7792 Thanks Everyone.
 
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