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Titans need backpressure my A##

14668 Views 221 Replies 33 Participants Last post by  DRTYAZN
Here is a video from a member on CT. He was running 14.0X forever with 07+ exhaust with 2 spintec mufflers. Now he's running just straight pipe after the headers with 2 14" magnaflows and ran a 13.7. He has NO X pipe or Y pipe on his truck. We argue on here about the X or the Y being better and now we have a member running this....LOL

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Here ya go J, not the best sound quality, its off my old camera. Forgot to take the terry cloths out this one. Take one idle.
ViperTruck066.mp4 video by ViperPowa - Photobucket

Couple small blips of the throttle
ViperTruck068.mp4 video by ViperPowa - Photobucket

Take 2 idle, i know, i shoulda gave a few revs
Headers, midpipes, exhaust video by ViperPowa - Photobucket


See my scavenger spikes (orange juicers) in my header collectors? lol
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Sorry, not an exhaust guru. Hopefully this pic will help. The only modified component is the two bullets and piping.



Thanks
LOL im no exhaust guru either. You got a nice setup, you can still put an x-pipe between your two banks where they come straight and parallel together. it should help keep your velocity up. that is a long distance of tubing to not have another scvenging point for velocity. At the very least you could put an h pipe, but a x would be better.
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Damn thanks Jason that was a big help! I gutted my cats this morning took a total of 2 hours start to finish. I spoke with the tuner and he said I shouldn't be WAY out of whack but "we can definitely squeeze more power out of it with what you've done" he wants 190.00 to retune it... Should I do it after I throw the magnaflow on? Man I hope someone comes out with an LSD for my truck
Yes a good retune is worth $190. As me an Deer know (especially Deer), gutting the OEM cats yields a good amount of power for a free mod, especially if your tune is right.
Sheit....makes me wish I had done the same before I got rid of it........live and learn.......lol That SRT10 sounds like it has a mild cam in it @ idle.......what gives?
LOL im no exhaust guru either. You got a nice setup, you can still put an x-pipe between your two banks where they come straight and parallel together. it should help keep your velocity up. that is a long distance of tubing to not have another scvenging point for velocity. At the very least you could put an h pipe, but a x would be better.
As far as his tubing is out of whack length wise, it will serve no real performance benefit to put an x-pipe in there where they come together. Firing order pulses are out of sync there. By the time the pair of pulses get all the way over there, you will have the other 2 from the pass. side arriving around the same time. Instead of splitting up the pair of pulses from left and then to right, you're gonna have 4 pulses arriving approx. the same time fighting to get out......creating turbulence and restriction. For un-equal length systems, a properly sized merge y-pipe is the most ideal setup, sizing it for the engines intended use/rpm power band. 13yrs and counting of exhaust fabrication as well as learning some theories from a couple of friends who professionally drag race have taught me this. If you can't put the x-pipe in-between the exhaust pipes equal distance from both inlets, then it's a wasted effort.
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Damn thanks Jason that was a big help! I gutted my cats this morning took a total of 2 hours start to finish. I spoke with the tuner and he said I shouldn't be WAY out of whack but "we can definitely squeeze more power out of it with what you've done" he wants 190.00 to retune it... Should I do it after I throw the magnaflow on? Man I hope someone comes out with an LSD for my truck
Before you spend anther $200 I'd find someone are you with a BDGT or Cipher to check your AFR's. If your good then no need to get re-tuned and save that $200 for trutrac or NOS:)
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And on a side note, GM had at one time in 1994 considered making a 7.5L V10 (455cu in) version of the Gen III LSx. Just think of the performance potential of that..........
GM V10.....lost
for sure good call brothers i do need to find someone with a bdgt to check my afrs...it already feels faster. when i first did it it felt so flat in first but after resetting the ecu its learned since and kind of woke up haha. i want to get that magnaflow swapped asap but everyone is closed for memorial!i kind of want to do nitrous and then retune so then im not wasting my time and money to gain 5 whp lol
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for sure good call brothers i do need to find someone with a bdgt to check my afrs...it already feels faster. when i first did it it felt so flat in first but after resetting the ecu its learned since and kind of woke up haha. i want to get that magnaflow swapped asap but everyone is closed for memorial!i kind of want to do nitrous and then retune so then im not wasting my time and money to gain 5 whp lol
Cut that ***** off & use band clamps, not the ubolt kind. My borlas are band clamped.
Get NOS, then re-tune=)...Check craigslist, Nitrous systems go for low prices all day. I love Nitrous in moderation, I mean how else can you gain 100hp with less then $500....Hell 100hp for $1000 is still a bad-a** deal. Some people look down on Nitrous as the poor man's racing solution, but I don't give a sh**, they aren't the ones getting their head slammed back into the seat with a big smile for a few bills. I'll probably run moderate Nitrous on everything I have from now on.

And like Deer said, run some damn band clamps! You can get it on there and enjoy, and if you end up noticing an exhaust leak, then just take it in and have that joint welded
Sheit....makes me wish I had done the same before I got rid of it........live and learn.......lol That SRT10 sounds like it has a mild cam in it @ idle.......what gives?
lol it does sound like it has a mild cam especially in person, thats the stock cam though, I just had the exhaust open after the midpipes. We were talking about electronic cutouts and that's more or less how my truck would sound with them.

As far as his tubing is out of whack length wise, it will serve no real performance benefit to put an x-pipe in there where they come together. Firing order pulses are out of sync there. By the time the pair of pulses get all the way over there, you will have the other 2 from the pass. side arriving around the same time. Instead of splitting up the pair of pulses from left and then to right, you're gonna have 4 pulses arriving approx. the same time fighting to get out......creating turbulence and restriction. For un-equal length systems, a properly sized merge y-pipe is the most ideal setup, sizing it for the engines intended use/rpm power band. 13yrs and counting of exhaust fabrication as well as learning some theories from a couple of friends who professionally drag race have taught me this. If you can't put the x-pipe in-between the exhaust pipes equal distance from both inlets, then it's a wasted effort.
ahh yes your right, I forgot about it needeing to be equal length pre x pipe. If he wants to keep his dual setup though it's either that or an h pipe can balance out the flow. That's just a long azz setup to be running no merge point downstream. IMO if he wants to do a dual exhaust setup no sense bringing the drivers side all the way to the passenger side if your not going to merge them. It would be better velocity wise to just run them straight back like DeerSlayers set up. Be even better to do cutouts. Ultimately, it's probably not worth the money to change his setup from what it already is untill he gets headers and no or hiflow cats. No matter what setup he's running catback, he's gonna be limited to the flow restristions of his stock manifolds and cats. I suggest to save that money for headers and tune, then he can set up his exhaust differently if he wants.
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I love the sound & the power of my new true dual borlas. By the way I measured, there is 40" of pipe on ea side including mufflers & reso tip. Ill post a pic in a bit. Its an unreal set-up!! I gained .04 off the 60' & .08 in the 1/8 mile with it. .1 total in the 1/4 mile. Cutouts are next to gain that last .1 being left on the table.

There is 21" of pipe before the muffler.............I'll do a rev video here in a few.

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That is a mean looking setup DS! I would put turn down's on them angled out under the frame a little bit!
That is a mean looking setup DS! I would put turn down's on them angled out under the frame a little bit!
Yea I'm going to use 12" turndowns and then the reso's on them. Angled out just a tad.
Yea I'm going to use 12" turndowns and then the reso's on them. Angled out just a tad.
That looks awesome DS! Only concern was the driver's side and was gonna say... Turn those down and out, and maybe adding a "heat shield" to the front of your fuel tank too... just in case... ;)
The argument about an engine needing back pressure has already been answered so I'll skip that and dissect the remainder of your post.

I don't understand your statement "It's not about how large the ports on the head are, it's about how well the head flows." So a port that is smaller in size but more efficiently "shaped" can flow as much air as a larger port that is a little less efficient? You do realize that the size of the port is relative to it's efficiency, right? So a smaller port = less effective no matter how smooth it is. Try blowing into a straw and then a water hose. Tell me which is easier to push.

It's a simple equation: more air + more fuel = more power.
It's not about how large your port is. Try just grinding your ports out yourself, then have them professionally done, and see the difference in flow gains. Unless you're force feeding an engine, port shaping and smoothing to reduce turbulance is as important if not more important that overall port size.
It's not about how large your port is. Try just grinding your ports out yourself, then have them professionally done, and see the difference in flow gains. Unless you're force feeding an engine, port shaping and smoothing to reduce turbulance is as important if not more important that overall port size.
Wow, I just reread my response to you and I sound like a total d-bag, so my apologies. Of course when you get your heads professionally done, it's gonna outflow stock heads. We can all aggree on that, so let's not get off topic.
That looks awesome DS! Only concern was the driver's side and was gonna say... Turn those down and out, and maybe adding a "heat shield" to the front of your fuel tank too... just in case... ;)
There is an oem heat shield on the tank, almost like it was made for true, short duals....lol
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It's not about how large your port is. Try just grinding your ports out yourself, then have them professionally done, and see the difference in flow gains. Unless you're force feeding an engine, port shaping and smoothing to reduce turbulance is as important if not more important that overall port size.
And I totally agree with that. There's a big difference between "grinding" away at your heads on your own and having a shop with flow testing machinery doing it. Shops will almost always ask for the cam specs so they can match the heads as best to that flow as they can. But you can still do your own mild port and polish and see some good gains. We did a minor port-gasket match and polish on my Altima's intake manifold and heads when I noticed there was some overlap and saw some gains in the top-end. I think it was like 16-17WHP with the PnP and SSIM (secret sauce intake manifold) modification at redline. But if you oversize your ports you run the risk of slowing intake velocity especially on stock cams and throwing the whole shebang out of whack. So this is definitely a modification left for someone who knows what they're doing.
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