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Titans need backpressure my A##

14641 Views 221 Replies 33 Participants Last post by  DRTYAZN
Here is a video from a member on CT. He was running 14.0X forever with 07+ exhaust with 2 spintec mufflers. Now he's running just straight pipe after the headers with 2 14" magnaflows and ran a 13.7. He has NO X pipe or Y pipe on his truck. We argue on here about the X or the Y being better and now we have a member running this....LOL

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I wish we could get someone with some cash to get an intake manifold on the Titan then have the heads ported with either a JWT s2/s7 cam or if they could get JWT to custom grind something a bit more aggressive. If we already have 1 Titan who ran 12's with just cam/stall (and he used the mildest cam available), imagine a more aggressive cam, intake manifold and ported heads, maybe with some 1 7/8 primary headers, and full 2.5" or 3" exhaust.....The more you think about it, with some real mods, the Titan would be a BEAST!

Dang it!!! Me and my thread jacks lol....I should be banned, but seriously^^^^^
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The VK56 has all the right goods to be a great performance engine. I mean, the GTR race car uses one and it makes 600 n/a hp. This engine was made from the get go as a truck engine guys, through and through. Just imagine how much more powerful it can/would be with the right supporting hardware..........
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I wish we could get someone with some cash to get an intake manifold on the Titan then have the heads ported with either a JWT s2/s7 cam or if they could get JWT to custom grind something a bit more aggressive. If we already have 1 Titan who ran 12's with just cam/stall (and he used the mildest cam available), imagine a more aggressive cam, intake manifold and ported heads, maybe with some 1 7/8 primary headers, and full 2.5" or 3" exhaust.....The more you think about it, with some real mods, the Titan would be a BEAST!

Dang it!!! Me and my thread jacks lol....I should be banned, but seriously^^^^^

JWT has bigger grinds: http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/wolfpdf/CAM_SPEC_CARD_VK56_ALL.pdf
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We know this, but it does no good to put bigger ones in our trucks w/out the other pieces in place, such as a better intake manifold and TB. Our intake has very long runners to promote low and mid tq production. Bigger cams than the S2/S7 combo will not be able to be used to their potential because of this. The intake is tuned for TQ, not high rpm HP.
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So with a CAI and LT headers, a true-dual setup would potentially increase performance on my 06 4x4, as long as I keep the actual pipes the same length (accounting for different routing patterns) to avoid creating an uneven pulse cycle and keep the velocity up?

If a matched pulse cycle (and in turn a high exhaust velocity) helps keep the low end TQ, then I'm all in. In theory, electronic cutouts in the exact right place in both B pipes would have this effect, correct?
So with a CAI and LT headers, a true-dual setup would potentially increase performance on my 06 4x4, as long as I keep the actual pipes the same length (accounting for different routing patterns) to avoid creating an uneven pulse cycle and keep the velocity up?

If a matched pulse cycle (and in turn a high exhaust velocity) helps keep the low end TQ, then I'm all in. In theory, electronic cutouts in the exact right place in both B pipes would have this effect, correct?
In theory, YES... realistically, not sure... Only way to find out is through experimentation, so try it and let us know your results... ;)
I was going to install just one electric cutout after the Y and before my Gibson muffler, but with all this in mind I'll go with dual cutouts and measure closely so they end up allowing for equal exits.
Then before and after results will be stupid easy, just open or close the cutouts.
This is going to be my next step after installing all the crap I've got piled up. I'll start a new thread with results and pics, but it'll be a few months down the road.
I was planning on increasing my exhaust flow eventually, and this gives me the direction I was looking for. Thanks to the OP and everyone else who added pertinent info.
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If doing cut-outs, I would do them in the b-pipes or very beginning of y-pipe.
I was going to install just one electric cutout after the Y and before my Gibson muffler, but with all this in mind I'll go with dual cutouts and measure closely so they end up allowing for equal exits.
Then before and after results will be stupid easy, just open or close the cutouts.
This is going to be my next step after installing all the crap I've got piled up. I'll start a new thread with results and pics, but it'll be a few months down the road.
I was planning on increasing my exhaust flow eventually, and this gives me the direction I was looking for. Thanks to the OP and everyone else who added pertinent info.
Hawaintitan told me to go with dual cutouts close to the headers. You could just put flanges on both sides of the cutout & just bolt it up instead of welding it all. Id weld the flanges to the cutout. Test fit 1st. Keep us posted because Im wanting to do this also. All this testing is doing nothing but good for the T community:)
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The cool thing about the cutouts is I'll be happy with the sound even if the performance gains aren't crazy good.
And if they open quick enough, I can try launching with 'em closed and opening them halfway down the 1/4.
LD5050, are you going to end up running headers and full exhaust? If so I would suggest to just hold off on throwing the cutouts on there untill you get your headers. Reason why is if you choose a certain diameter cutout for stock pipes, it might be too small for your aftermarket header collectors. Starting and setting up your exhaust with the overall goal in mind and doing it right the first time will save you money and trouble. So after you pick what headers you want, you set your exhaust up according to that. If your gonna run cutouts you run them as close to the headers as possible. Welding a flange to the front of the cutout pipe and going flange to flange on the collectors is where your best gains will be. Here's my choice for cutouts

Welcome to DMH Performance!
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Yeah, if you click on my mods in my sig, I've got LT headers, full exhaust, and DMH is my ONLY choice for electronic cutouts (they're on my wishlist).
They're the only ones I've found that have a 4 year (!) warranty.

Basically, I learned that high exhaust velocity, and not back pressure itself is what gives our Ts low end torque. That made me change my plans from one cutout after the Y merge to 2 cutouts close to the headers. As long as I keep the exhaust paths truly equal lengths, I won't create erratic pulse cycles and will keep a high exhaust velocity.

I want to keep all the TQ I can. My exhaust was one of my first mods, and at that time a single, swept-side catback exhaust gave me the most gains for my mod level.
Now that I have CAI, headers, and plan on a TB and hopefully IM in the not-too-distant future, I would normally plan on swapping out my single I/O catback to something better flowing. With the cutout option, I don't have to look at replacing the entire exhaust and can get the same beneficial decrease in backpressure a true dual system would offer me.
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How would I go about measuring the difference in length between the Doug Thorley right and left header? They're definitely different, if only slightly.
I would have to compensate for that by placing one of the cutouts further downstream an equal distance to get harmonious cycling, and a good scavenging effect.

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No need to put a cutout further then the other since the only reason you need the exhaust equal length pipes is if you merge them. With the cutouts open and close to the headers that won't matter cause the exhaust dumps right there. Even what you do after that won't matter much since it's not gonna outflow to cutouts. One thing guys do is make thier exhaust after the cutouts docile and set up more for low end tq daily driving. Open up the cutouts for when you want to race.
You can still use your single exit exhaust after the cutouts, it's probably better that way to run a y pipe after the cutouts cause with them closed you don't know how erratic your flow will be after them, the y pipe will help balance the uneveness out for your daily driving.
I'm not saying it's a measurable difference, but I would think that at least in theory it would make a difference if the cutouts were placed to allow equal length exhaust exits.
If exhaust velocity is as dependent on both sides being in synchronization as I've been led to believe, then creating an out-of-phase setup would decrease velocity and low end power.
The purpose of an X pipe, an H pipe, or in my current case, a Y pipe is to get the 2 sides to cycle in sync, right?
What I'm trying to say is thier actual syncronization beween the two exhaust banks will have nothing to do with one another with the cutouts open, the separate banks pulses cannot help eachother scavenge untill exhaust paths merge. The cutouts will be way before any merge so their syncronization between one another won't have an affect on the open cutouts velocity. What will have an effect on their velocity when open is how far upstream or downstream you out them from the collectors, the closer to the collectors the better. Syncronization will come into play with the cutouts closed. An x pipe doesn't make them in sync, it takes advantage if thier sync to help scavenge. If they are out of sync before the x pipe it won't help scavenge. Nothing down stream has much effect on the velocity coming out of the cutout.
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By 'collector' you mean the bottom end of the headers, where all 4 pipes merge into 1?

So, the best place for dual cutouts is basically attach them to the headers, or as close as I can?
By 'collector' you mean the bottom end of the headers, where all 4 pipes merge into 1?

So, the best place for dual cutouts is basically attach them to the headers, or as close as I can?
Yes sir

the further downstream you put the cutouts your defeating their whole purpose
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