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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I have a 2010 SE 4x4 with 2.93 gears, 45k miles on it (purchased new), and hope to get another 5-7 or more years out of it. I drive it only on the weekends as evidenced by the miles and until recently have only towed approx 1,500 miles with light weight 2,000 to 5,000 lbs. I've purchased a travel trailer and weighed and measured. I'm coming in right at on tongue weight and just over on tow weight (rated 7,300 lbs, weight calculations has me at 7,600 lbs). The 7600 lbs is fully loaded including passengers and gear loaded up.

Looking to haul once or twice every month or two, 200 miles each way so 400 miles round trip. There's a few hills "rolling" enough to notice, but no mountains (I'm in Florida).

I've done one trip and it seems to haul fine, definitely notice the tran temp climb and it has spiked NEAR the line about 4/5 of the way over but never hit it or sat there (I give it some RPMs when needed).

Am I riding the lightning and going to tear my truck up, or can I make it another 5-7 years and 50k miles doing this?

Thanks for any input!
 

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If that is the dry weight you will be way over by the time you add batteries, propane tanks, awning and all your gear, your towing capacity is 7300 pounds. How many people and how much gear is going to be in the truck when you tow? All of this has a factor in determining how much you have left as towing capacity.
 

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If you have trailer brakes, LT tires, common sense, and a good hitch, it'll be fine. Just keep the tranny temps under control and go easy.
The only major difference between yours and a "big tow" is the final gearing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
If that is the dry weight you will be way over by the time you add batteries, propane tanks, awning and all your gear, your towing capacity is 7300 pounds. How many people and how much gear is going to be in the truck when you tow? All of this has a factor in determining how much you have left as towing capacity.
Understood on being thorough. To be clear the trailer dry weight is 5500lbs. The 7600lbs accounts for crew and all materials not bolted down going in and behind the truck. Edited the OP to clarify that. Thank you
 

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If you have trailer brakes, LT tires, common sense, and a good hitch, it'll be fine. Just keep the tranny temps under control and go easy.
The only major difference between yours and a "big tow" is the final gearing.
That's my thought, guess I'm looking for some additional validation from some more experienced. I had planned to upgrade to a 3/4 ton when I got a travel trailer but it isn't convenient for finances atm. My new trailer has brakes, though since I've never used them (and didn't notice any kind of improved braking), I'm pretty well convinced they're not working. When I pulled in for gas the hubs around the brakes were definitely warm, but I'd expect them to be HOT like normal brakes so plan to get them checked out before next trip. Good everywhere else :)
 

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You need a brake controller. If you make a panic stop, you will jackknife very fast. I think it's a law that you have a controller for the brakes, especially if the camper has electric brakes. (and it does)
 
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You'll be fine at that, just use manual shift and avoid hammering the rough stuff. Odd that in FL there's anything to make the tranny complain. Mine doesn't start cooking until i hit 4%+ grade for more than 1/4 mile and that's with slightly less to a lot more. I'm an 09 with the 2.94 and 145K and tow every day. As long as tongue weight is good, and you preemptively downshift, (keep RPMs above 2700k while climbing, Tow mode on and drive will be fine for flats) you should be fine for a long time.
 

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Since you're close, you might start looking for a few hundred pounds of weight savings. You won't likely find it in one item, but you could swap to some lighter stuff along the way both in the truck and trailer) and leave some unnecessary stuff home, and probably ditch 300 lbs of weight. You have to think like a backpacker or a race car builder. That 300 lbs will come off in increments of a few pounds at a time. Lighter dishes, mattresses, aluminum versus steel, fewer redundancies, etc.

Beyond that, just know that if you are in an accident and are a little over, it could cause you big issues with both the insurance companies and the law (civil or potentially criminal).
 
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Since you're close, you might start looking for a few hundred pounds of weight savings. You won't likely find it in one item, but you could swap to some lighter stuff along the way both in the truck and trailer) and leave some unnecessary stuff home, and probably ditch 300 lbs of weight. You have to think like a backpacker or a race car builder. That 300 lbs will come off in increments of a few pounds at a time. Lighter dishes, mattresses, aluminum versus steel, fewer redundancies, etc.

Beyond that, just know that if you are in an accident and are a little over, it could cause you big issues with both the insurance companies and the law (civil or potentially criminal).
If you are not obviously over weight, they will never know. Never heard of anyone taking the debris from a wreck and having it weighed. Now if you are obviously, it will cause suspicion, but most are just going to write it up with out thinking about it.
 

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Dubyam makes a good point, I think being legal or close to it is something to consider.
Gear selection is number one though. A torque converter will heat up fast if it's abused.
 
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