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Discussion Starter · #1 ·



so gotta question and maybe looking for some insight on this or drop some knowledge on me if you will :wink: so what i'd like to know is traction? whenever i'm at a light or intersection i have to basically roll foward slowly giving it gas gradually until i'm going. if i give it a bit too much gas off the line the wheels will spin and the slip light comes on. when i say a bit too much gas i mean i step on the gas normally like i do on dry conditions. sometimes when i'm bumping my system loud i don't realize i'm spinning my wheels until i notice the slip light blinking on and off which than i'll let off on the gas until it grabs. my question or questions is could it be a number of things like is being a LongBed causing this? with the rear wheels/axle so much further back away from the cab cause this? not enough weight in the bed? could the CJD Traction bars be a factor? or maybe the Bilstein shocks, PRG Deavers and 4" blocks come into play? i know throwing sand bags in the back will help but just wondering why i have to baby the gas pedal on wet surfaces without breaking traction so easily. maybe because the traction bars are eliminating the axle wrap it transferring the power to the tires quickly? i would think having these large 35" mud tires would help add weight? i dunno, like to get your guy's opinions.
 

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traction bars definitely help you transfer more power to the ground, so yea that definitely could be a factor. I noticed that immediately as well. I bet an AT tire would do better on road as well, but IDK. Maybe try a Toyo AT2 next time your MT's wear out. I don't think the long bed causes it to happen worse/more often, it definitely is more noticeable though since it's so long. ha......

Once snow came around in Chicago i had to drive like a grandma or else VDC/SLIP/ABS would kick in at every light.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
traction bars definitely help you transfer more power to the ground, so yea that definitely could be a factor. I noticed that immediately as well. I bet an AT tire would do better on road as well, but IDK. Maybe try a Toyo AT2 next time your MT's wear out. I don't think the long bed causes it to happen worse/more often, it definitely is more noticeable though since it's so long. ha......

Once snow came around in Chicago i had to drive like a grandma or else VDC/SLIP/ABS would kick in at every light.
thanks for the input FORD BOY! :devil: i felt like the traction bars had some play in this. it's gonna snow here pretty soon and that's usually when i throw some sand bags in the back or the axles. maybe i'll order those Toyo AT2's for my OEM wheels and slap those on during winters?
 

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Ford boy?
Snicker snicker.

I agree with the whole AT2 idea.
 

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I don’t have the big lift or the long bed, but I do have trac bars and my duratracs do it to but I have to get into it. I ran cooper at2s for years and they were really bad in the wet, if I knew I had to pull out quick, I would just put it in 4 wheel drive right from the jump to pull out. The duratracs are a huge improvement, they are also on a 15 and not on a 06 like the coops were.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Ford boy?
Snicker snicker.

I agree with the whole AT2 idea.
:devil: do you own a FORD too Walrus? my coworker here just received his new 2018 Ford 150 all blacked out and it's pretty sweet actually. got all the bells and whistles. he always parks next to my truck and keeps telling me "Someday i'll get a big lift like yours!" :wink:
 

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traction bars and sh1tty tires....
 

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My Titan used to have really bad wet weather traction. I was running Toyo MTs (not MT2s) the truck would spin in the wet with even the lightest throttle.

I switched to BFG AT KO2s and my traction improved greatly. Then I added a LEER canopy and now my traction is actually pretty good, instead of a loose spin like I had before, if I gas it too hard the tires slip just a bit, but you can feel an actual "grabbing" from the tires and an abrupt restoration of traction, like going from dirt to asphalt. BFG AT KO2s and a 300 pound canopy did the trick for me.

One bad thing about the KO2s is that they are very "sticky", they make a noise when driving and my MPGs took a hit. My co-worker with a newer GMC Sierra has the same tires and he had the same thing happen also: much better traction and much worse MPGs.
 
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:devil: do you own a FORD too Walrus? my coworker here just received his new 2018 Ford 150 all blacked out and it's pretty sweet actually. got all the bells and whistles. he always parks next to my truck and keeps telling me "Someday i'll get a big lift like yours!" :wink:
he owns a frontier. He just enjoys making fun of me on here....i make fun of him in a FB chat so it evens out:big_grin:
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
My Titan used to have really bad wet weather traction. I was running Toyo MTs (not MT2s) the truck would spin in the wet with even the lightest throttle.

I switched to BFG AT KO2s and my traction improved greatly. Then I added a LEER canopy and now my traction is actually pretty good, instead of a loose spin like I had before, if I gas it too hard the tires slip just a bit, but you can feel an actual "grabbing" from the tires and an abrupt restoration of traction, like going from dirt to asphalt. BFG AT KO2s and a 300 pound canopy did the trick for me.

One bad thing about the KO2s is that they are very "sticky", they make a noise when driving and my MPGs took a hit. My co-worker with a newer GMC Sierra has the same tires and he had the same thing happen also: much better traction and much worse MPGs.
i throw 4 bags of sand in the back so it doesn't spin anymore unless i really punch it. but the bags are only because winter is here tho it yet hasn't snowed but really during spring and summer when it rains i don't have sand in the back.
 

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Less weight over the axle, trac bars, MT tires. AT tires will give a little better traction, but you're still going to spin. Best road tires I ever had were Michelin MS2's, but they're pricey and they don't have an off road look. I spin my Terra Grapplers in the rain if I'm not careful.
 
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Michelins are NICE.
 

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All the advice you've gotten up to now is good, but I was looking at your pics, and your rear tires are significantly overinflated. Modern tires with larger rims already don't have as much sidewall to flex and give under torque application as the old 15" rims from when I was a kid. Inflating them to where only the center 2/3 of the tire is even in cintact with the road (according to the dust marks on your rear tires) will cause you to spin even more easily. Not sure what your inflation is, but I'd take it down to where you get a nice, even, nearly square contact patch and see how it does.
 

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All the advice you've gotten up to now is good, but I was looking at your pics, and your rear tires are significantly overinflated. Modern tires with larger rims already don't have as much sidewall to flex and give under torque application as the old 15" rims from when I was a kid. Inflating them to where only the center 2/3 of the tire is even in cintact with the road (according to the dust marks on your rear tires) will cause you to spin even more easily. Not sure what your inflation is, but I'd take it down to where you get a nice, even, nearly square contact patch and see how it does.
IDK how many times I've told him to run them at 30-35
 

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I run my BFG TA KOs (1st Gen) at 38 rear, and 44 front. Makes for some hasale at rotation time, but it is worth it. I'm at 40k on this set, and I have about a third of the tread left on these still. I'll get somewhere between 55-60k, if they don't wear more quickly beyond this point. They appear to be pretty steady, though. I'll likely go back with the same tire (well, the KO2) when I replace these, but maybe bump up to a 12x34-is size from the stock 275/70R18s. I'll add 2.5-3" of lift at that point, too.
 

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Nerd alert: Not all tires are designed to excel in the same operating situations. No off-road tire, AT, MT whatever, will provide good wet traction. Tires are complex engineered parts designed to provide coefficient of friction sometimes under specific conditions, such as R series tires used in autocross and others are made to be compromises in almost all situations. Tread compound effects dry pavement traction. Tread design effects wet. (all other factors being equal) As stated above, inflation is also a key factor to both traction and wear, but all things equal, the tread design matters most for wet. An extreme example, but consider using motocross knobbies on a road race motorcycle. A last place finisher for sure. If you look at winter tires, as well as good, better, best road tires, you'll notice the sipes. The more sipes, the better the wet traction. That's why a Blizzak has huge numbers of sipes on every tread block. Like an ice skate, the tires don't actually ride on 'ice', they create a micro film of melt and then move that water off the surface giving the tire the ability to 'bite'. Since HT tires are only designed for dry and wet pavement, they have fewer sipes, but still give a maximum coefficient. Since AT, MT and other block style tires have few to none, there's not much you can do that will increase the performance to match your expectations. The closest you can get to knowing before you buy is to know the UTGQ for the specific tire you're interested in. And then realize that A,B or C is only based on comparisons to tires of the same class made by the same manufacturer and not any other! Pure voodoo.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
All the advice you've gotten up to now is good, but I was looking at your pics, and your rear tires are significantly overinflated. Modern tires with larger rims already don't have as much sidewall to flex and give under torque application as the old 15" rims from when I was a kid. Inflating them to where only the center 2/3 of the tire is even in cintact with the road (according to the dust marks on your rear tires) will cause you to spin even more easily. Not sure what your inflation is, but I'd take it down to where you get a nice, even, nearly square contact patch and see how it does.
i've got it down to 35 psi on all 4 corners after Honda suggest it. these are older pictures of the truck

IDK how many times I've told him to run them at 30-35
i did lol!
 

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Nerd alert: Not all tires are designed to excel in the same operating situations. No off-road tire, AT, MT whatever, will provide good wet traction. Tires are complex engineered parts designed to provide coefficient of friction sometimes under specific conditions, such as R series tires used in autocross and others are made to be compromises in almost all situations. Tread compound effects dry pavement traction. Tread design effects wet. (all other factors being equal) As stated above, inflation is also a key factor to both traction and wear, but all things equal, the tread design matters most for wet. An extreme example, but consider using motocross knobbies on a road race motorcycle. A last place finisher for sure. If you look at winter tires, as well as good, better, best road tires, you'll notice the sipes. The more sipes, the better the wet traction. That's why a Blizzak has huge numbers of sipes on every tread block. Like an ice skate, the tires don't actually ride on 'ice', they create a micro film of melt and then move that water off the surface giving the tire the ability to 'bite'. Since HT tires are only designed for dry and wet pavement, they have fewer sipes, but still give a maximum coefficient. Since AT, MT and other block style tires have few to none, there's not much you can do that will increase the performance to match your expectations. The closest you can get to knowing before you buy is to know the UTGQ for the specific tire you're interested in. And then realize that A,B or C is only based on comparisons to tires of the same class made by the same manufacturer and not any other! Pure voodoo.
There are a lot of AT tires that are great in rain.
 

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