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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I've used my trailer lights in the past no problem but last yr we pulled my 4 x 8 and no lights worked. Later I used my 6 x 12 and they didn't work either when they used too. Today I checked the fittings underneath the trucks rearend, the interior fuses and the underhood fuses and all are ok. I found no rusted fittings, no blown fuses and no loose grounds but dang if I can figure this out. These stopped working probably one yr ago but rarely pull so I just forgot about them. Tuesday I'm going out of town pulling a trailer and REALLY need these lights. Any suggestions????
 

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Are you using an adapter between the truck and trailer? Might be that.

If not, start with a multimeter and have someone go through the various brake and signal activations. Follow the pin diagram and put the red lead on a specific pin and the black lead on ground, and see if you get 12v when you should. If not, you have a fuse or wiring issue in the truck. If you're getting 12v at the plug for the various pins when you should, the problem is not the truck.
 

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Are you using an adapter between the truck and trailer? Might be that.

If not, start with a multimeter and have someone go through the various brake and signal activations. Follow the pin diagram and put the red lead on a specific pin and the black lead on ground, and see if you get 12v when you should. If not, you have a fuse or wiring issue in the truck. If you're getting 12v at the plug for the various pins when you should, the problem is not the truck.
This is the easiest way to check. Start at the farthest point back. If you get power at the plug for various things you're good so you should start at the bulbs on the trailer with it hooked up. If you're not getting anything at the plug start moving up. Check the wires going INTO the plug (wires could be good, plug could be bad), then move forward again to the next point. Electrical problems suck.
 

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And a quick visual inspection is always a good idea, and very easy. The wires to the plug are exposed for a part of the way and prone to damage from road debris. Take a quick look under the bumper and see if you can detect any damage to the wires. Another recent poster here had a similar issue, and a wire cut was the issue; some quick splicing will fix that.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I apologize for not making myself more clear. With a meter I checked ALL the wires at the rear plugs/connectors (there are three) and all are dead EXCEPT for continuity through the ground wire. No tail, no stop, no turn, no nothing through any other wire and nothing has been cut/crushed/damaged, haven't even seen any place that's been rubbing against something. I've pulled connectors apart and nothing is even dusty much less rusted while in the meantime every light on the truck works great. I also used a 12v bulb type tester and probed wires but never got to the point where a dead wire, with further probing, was found to become hot. Anyway, with more pressing issues, tomorrow it's going to the shop. Daughter just graduated college and offered a job out of town out of the blue so she has to move. I'll rent an enclosed trailer so I HAVE to get these lights working asap. Yeah yeah I've had plenty of time to get this fixed and I put it off but NEVER DREAMED she'd be moving out of town to live/work. Never do today what you can put off until tomorrow. Yeah, right!
 

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Not really surprising that continuity to ground is working as that is established in most cases by grounding to the chassis in a nearby location. Why run a wire when a frame rail will do.

I would look at the wiring diagrams in the service manuals still available on NicoClub up to 2017 - I doubt that the wiring harness for this section has changed much. I would suspect a problem at the next upstream connector from the bumper harness which is probably somewhere up near the firewall under the dash. You will probably have to cross-check a couple of different sections in the manuals to find the location, but it's not too hard to figure out.

However if it is already going in for service, let them figure it out. Good luck to you, and congratulations to your DD on her graduation and a new job! Mine graduated 2 years ago and is still struggling to launch - be happy for her!!
 

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It's gonna suck when they charge you $75 for a blown fuse.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Not really surprising that continuity to ground is working as that is established in most cases by grounding to the chassis in a nearby location. Why run a wire when a frame rail will do.

I would look at the wiring diagrams in the service manuals still available on NicoClub up to 2017 - I doubt that the wiring harness for this section has changed much. I would suspect a problem at the next upstream connector from the bumper harness which is probably somewhere up near the firewall under the dash. You will probably have to cross-check a couple of different sections in the manuals to find the location, but it's not too hard to figure out.

However if it is already going in for service, let them figure it out. Good luck to you, and congratulations to your DD on her graduation and a new job! Mine graduated 2 years ago and is still struggling to launch - be happy for her!!
No I wasn't surprised the ground was working. I was just being a bit sarcastic. Lol. I dropped the truck off at 9:50 and haven't heard from them yet and it may still be sitting where I parked it. Thanks for the congratulations. Our daughter crammed a lot into the Summer months last year so she could finish early while holding down a day job so she truly worked her butt off for it. Now there's a mountain of student loans to deal with. I'm sure you've seen it all too through your daughter. Our daughter "put herself out there" on Monster.com and other job sites and guess that's how she got this job so fast. I do wish your daughter lots of luck and it'll come her way but like mine, sadly she may have to move away to get it.
 

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It's most likely your tail light converter box. Easy and inexpensive fix. Uhaul can do it if you prefer not to, since you'll be renting a trailer from them. Two birds one stone
 

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What is a "tail light converter box"?
 

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I've used my trailer lights in the past no problem but last yr we pulled my 4 x 8 and no lights worked. Later I used my 6 x 12 and they didn't work either when they used too. Today I checked the fittings underneath the trucks rearend, the interior fuses and the underhood fuses and all are ok. I found no rusted fittings, no blown fuses and no loose grounds but dang if I can figure this out. These stopped working probably one yr ago but rarely pull so I just forgot about them. Tuesday I'm going out of town pulling a trailer and REALLY need these lights. Any suggestions????
Check the #65 15 Amp fuse in the fuse box it controls the trailer L & R turn signal relays.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Well here's the story. About 3 yrs ago I was sideswiped, pass. door, by a hit/run so to the body shop my truck went. After a wk I got it back and they did a fantastic job including color matching. I've had the truck for about 9 yrs and had pulled my 8', my 12' and my 18' tandem and NEVER had light issues. I guessed it'd been about one yr since the lights worked but the more I thought I realized it's been 2 or a little longer. About then I bought a 3 point backhoe and used my 12' to go get it and that's when I found the lights were out. As a best guess this may be what happened and why I can't say but this is the only time the truck was not in my possession but I'll get back to this shortly. Ok, knowing I was going to pull a loaded to the gills UHaul yesterday on a 220 mile trip, I needed lights so as I said earlier the truck went to a shop. They kept it 1.5 days and when I picked it up the mechanic said he worked on it a few hrs before he realized the cause. A lot of vehicles have empty places in the power distribution box for options not wanted. My truck has those too seen as I was checking for blown fuses earlier so I didn't think anything of the empty places. This mechanic said he finally realized both relays in my truck for trailer lights had been removed. That would explain why the lights worked then didn't discovered by me not too long after it returned from the body shop. Do I REALLY believe some douche bag would steal two relays? I honestly don't know.......but my lights work now. So, thanks everyone for the ideas and guesses and suggestions but the bottom line is two missing relays. :mad:
 

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I had to buy and install the relays also when I first bought my Titan. Not the cheapest little things, especially OEM. So your truck got swiped then your relays got swiped at the shop that was fixing the swipe 😂
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Lol!!!!!! I never thought of it that way but suppose you could say it was a double swipe! I really hate to say or think someone at that shop took them but can't think of any other time my truck has been without me at length. And it's a great local body shop and they do fantastic work but ya never know. Anyway, that's likely what happened AND it cost me $152 to find out. I checked every connection I could find and every fuse listed to do with trailer lights but I was scratching my butt because I knew they HAD worked. But I was running out of time and had other things to do to ready for the trip and had to have the lights so I paid. Do you recall what the relays cost back when you bought them? And too it's my own fault for not checking into the problem when I found out they didn't work 2 yrs ago but life happens and time gets away from you.NOW I HAVE ANOTHER PROBLEM. My air bag light came on. The code is B 1086 which shows to be the LH belt pre-tensioner. I found the info below but it doesn't tell me what WITH CONSULT-III and WITHOUT CONSULT-III means so I don't know which I have. I also found the procedure online on how to reset the system to turn of the light but after several attempts the light remains lit. No I haven't had time yet to get into the tensioner to check the wiring but I replaced that one a few yrs ago because it would barely retract the belt causing the door to close on it constantly. Now this one is doing the same as the original. Argggggggggggggggggg!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

With CONSULT-lll

Without CONSULT-lll

DTC CONFIRMATION PROCEDURE (With CONSULT-lll)
1.INSPECTION START
Turn ignition switch ON.
> GO TO 2.
2.CHECK SELF-DIAG RESULT
Check for the DTC on CONSULT-lll.
Is the DTC detected? YES >> Refer to SRC-35, "Diagnosis Procedure (Component Diagnosis)".
NO >> Inspection End.
DTC CONFIRMATION PROCEDURE (Without CONSULT-lll)
NOTE: SRS will not enter diagnosis mode if no malfunction is detected in user mode.
1.IGNITION SWITCH
Turn ignition switch ON.
> GO TO 2
2.IGNITION SWITCH
After air bag warning lamp lights for 7 seconds, turn ignition switch OFF within 1 second.
> GO TO 3
3.WAIT TIME
Wait more than 3 seconds.
> GO TO 4
4.REPEAT STEPS
Repeat steps 1 to 3 twice.
> GO TO 5
5.IGNITION SWITCH
Turn ignition switch ON.
> GO TO 6
6.DIAGNOSTIC MODE
SRS system is now in diagnostic mode and AIR BAG warning lamp flashes. Refer to SRC-70, "Trouble Diagnosis without CONSULT-III".
Diagnosis Procedure (Component Diagnosis)
Recheck SRS after each replacement.
1.HARNESS CONNECTOR
Is there any visible damage to the connector? YES or NO
YES >> Replace the harness.
NO >> GO TO 2
2.WIRING HARNESS
Is there any visible damage to the harness? YES or NO
YES >> Replace the harness.
NO >> GO TO 2
2.WIRING HARNESS
Is there any visible damage to the harness? YES or NO
YES >> Replace the harness.
NO >> GO TO 3
3.FRONT LH SEAT BELT PRE-TENSIONER
Replace the front LH seat belt pre-tensioner. Refer to SB-8, "Removal and Installation".
> GO TO 4
4.AIR BAG DIAGNOSIS SENSOR UNIT
Replace the air bag diagnosis sensor unit. Refer to SR-17, "Removal and Installation".
> GO TO 5
5.RELATED HARNESS
Replace the related harness.
 
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