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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all!

So with tax returns coming... I will have money burning in my pockets so of course I will need to buy stuff!

I already have a 6'' pro comp lift with Radflos coming from PRG so I was wondering about drivetrain etc...

I have looked into the True trac and diff cover:

True Trac: Detroit TrueTrac Differential-RH3
Diff Cover: Nissan Titan Dana 44 High Capacity Differential Cover-RH3

I found a guy here in Utah - Orem (6 States Distributors) that will do the install and was referred to my by the dealership.

Next I asked him about doing the shift kit and he said he doesn't touch automatic transmissions... dang it!

Big question: Just find a local tranny shop to do the Trans Go or spend more at the dealership...?

Also, any suggestions on maybe a new tranny pan... The forums seem to say that PML is a good purchase...

Skid plate suggestions to protect the stuff lol... not really needed but just throwing it out there...

I am thinking these upgrades should be nice but I am wanting them to be done correctly... Any help would be greatly appreciated!
 

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You won't regret the TT & Mag-Hytech! I love mine. Can't speak for the tranny stuff...
Thanks for the input!

So the stock rear end takes: Differential, Rear..........4.3 pints. The upgraded diff cover adds 2 extra quarts.

So stock rear holds 4.3 pints which is 2.15 quarts. So after the new rear diff cover that is 4.15 quarts. I am thinking 5 Quarts of this will be a good choice:AMSOIL Synthetic Gear Lube - Gear Oil

Now I just need to find out more info on the Trans Go!!!

Truc Trac and Mag-Hytech are a for sure go once I get my tax returns!

I plan to just buy a 12 pack of this when I go to get my shift kit installed: AMSOIL Synthetic Automatic and Manual Transmission Fluid
 

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SHifts kit are generally pretty easy to install...

On the newer automatic transmissions its nothing more than a small valve body about the size of a pepsi bottle. You remove the stock one and swap in the new one...BAM! shifts like a race car... BUT! be warned, shift kits are not fun to install on a normal street duty vehcile. Also you mentioned you got a 6" lift...I would HIGHLY recommend you not do a shift kit. Your asking to snap an input shaft with a shift kit and huge tires. Shift kits are made for drag racing and bang the gears pretty hard. So trying to have any kind of drink in your vehicle while driving normally is impossible...
 

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Thanks for the input!

So the stock rear end takes: Differential, Rear..........4.3 pints. The upgraded diff cover adds 2 extra quarts.

So stock rear holds 4.3 pints which is 2.15 quarts. So after the new rear diff cover that is 4.15 quarts. I am thinking 5 Quarts of this will be a good choice:AMSOIL Synthetic Gear Lube - Gear Oil

Now I just need to find out more info on the Trans Go!!!

Truc Trac and Mag-Hytech are a for sure go once I get my tax returns!

I plan to just buy a 12 pack of this when I go to get my shift kit installed: AMSOIL Synthetic Automatic and Manual Transmission Fluid
4 qts should be fine. Something about the TT being larger than the OEM diff... Much over 4 qts and your axle seals may begin leaking.
 

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Jesus, that is a really involved shift kit...

I have installed loads of shift kits through the years, all of which usually take no more than 20-30 minutes. I would say 90% of them was the ford Lightning in the 00-04 years and that was by far the easiest shift kit every to install. You needed the Factory R type valve body which was about $200, then it was better to just go ahead and get the Moroso trans pan. Jack up the truck and take a punch and knock yourself a drain plug in the pan. Drain it out, remove the pan, take aftermarket valvebody and replcae factory one. it was literally 2 hose clamps with locks, and bolt it in. bolt on new pan and fill...done...

Thats trans go shift kit, you actually get in there and remove the actualy valves and entire working part of the tranny. Would be real easy to foul that up...
 
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Discussion Starter #8
SHifts kit are generally pretty easy to install...

On the newer automatic transmissions its nothing more than a small valve body about the size of a pepsi bottle. You remove the stock one and swap in the new one...BAM! shifts like a race car... BUT! be warned, shift kits are not fun to install on a normal street duty vehcile. Also you mentioned you got a 6" lift...I would HIGHLY recommend you not do a shift kit. Your asking to snap an input shaft with a shift kit and huge tires. Shift kits are made for drag racing and bang the gears pretty hard. So trying to have any kind of drink in your vehicle while driving normally is impossible...
You know I never really thought of that... funny how small things skip my mind sometimes... Well TT and new diff cover it is!
 

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Our valve body is about the size of a phone book and requires attention to detail. One wrong move and you WILL be purchasing an entire new valve body for over $700. For this reason, I just sent mine to IPT. LOL Transgo will perform the same though and it is a very respectable reprogramming/shift kit, I say do it. It will also save your tranny in the long run by not having the torque converter open for so long. Nissan does this for driver comfort, but who the hell needs that right? LOL Normal driving is fine and you probably won't even notice it, until you mash the pedal.... Then the Titan wakes up from its nap.

Truetrac is the best and only LSD out for our Titans right now, if I am not mistaken. ENSURE you take the 12 bolts out, clean them dry to include where they screw in to, and use high temp loctite (research it here), and torque all bolts down to 55-60lbs. After let it dry for a good day, then install with generic Nissan 75w-140 gear fluid to let all metal particles come out. Then drain 200-500 miles later and fill with good 75w-140 oil. Some will say dino, amsoil, or what have you... Its up to you as long as you used high temp loctite and torqued everything down properly. As for the Maghytec cover, I used roughly 4 bottles of royal purple 75w-140, after the 200-500 mile break in period with stock Nissan oil.

Fill ONLY to the bottom of the first line on the MagHytec dip stick. Do not overfill it. Good luck man and you will not be disappointed. I also wash the cover when I wash the Titan. hahaha Gotta represent man, along with the rear anti-sway bar.

Forgot to mention, when you order Truetrac do NOT forget to order the races and bearing kit, it is roughly $45.00 made specifically for the Titan.
 

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Our valve body is about the size of a phone book and requires attention to detail. One wrong move and you WILL be purchasing an entire new valve body for over $700. For this reason, I just sent mine to IPT. LOL Transgo will perform the same though and it is a very respectable reprogramming/shift kit, I say do it. It will also save your tranny in the long run by not having the torque converter open for so long. Nissan does this for driver comfort, but who the hell needs that right? LOL Normal driving is fine and you probably won't even notice it, until you mash the pedal.... Then the Titan wakes up from its nap.

Truetrac is the best and only LSD out for our Titans right now, if I am not mistaken. ENSURE you take the 12 bolts out, clean them dry to include where they screw in to, and use high temp loctite (research it here), and torque all bolts down to 55-60lbs. After let it dry for a good day, then install with generic Nissan 75w-140 gear fluid to let all metal particles come out. Then drain 200-500 miles later and fill with good 75w-140 oil. Some will say dino, amsoil, or what have you... Its up to you as long as you used high temp loctite and torqued everything down properly. As for the Maghytec cover, I used roughly 4 bottles of royal purple 75w-140, after the 200-500 mile break in period with stock Nissan oil.

Fill ONLY to the bottom of the first line on the MagHytec dip stick. Do not overfill it. Good luck man and you will not be disappointed. I also wash the cover when I wash the Titan. hahaha Gotta represent man, along with the rear anti-sway bar.

Forgot to mention, when you order Truetrac do NOT forget to order the races and bearing kit, it is roughly $45.00 made specifically for the Titan.
Good Trutrac advise in case I ever do it.
 

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Just got my Transgo kit in the mail. Holy crap is that a small amount of parts for $200!

And I just read that the TruTrac is only for 2wd trucks?

That sucks. So I have to launch in 4H, and hope for the best?
 

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Tru trac is a universal part...I had one in my Mustang Cobra...They are a great rear end unit. Really tough, can beat on them pretty hard, and if they break they can be rebuilt by the owner preatty easily.

Buy the tru trac, when your offroading you will be a happy camper, you will not notice a different on the street.
 

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Tru trac is a universal part...I had one in my Mustang Cobra...They are a great rear end unit. Really tough, can beat on them pretty hard, and if they break they can be rebuilt by the owner preatty easily.

Buy the tru trac, when your offroading you will be a happy camper, you will not notice a different on the street.
I really only wanted the TruTrac for street application, namely to get rid of the impending one-tire-fire when I get the LTs and UpRev installed.
 

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I really only wanted the TruTrac for street application, namely to get rid of the impending one-tire-fire when I get the LTs and UpRev installed.
It will take care of that, no problem. Its a positive traction style rear end diff. and works well in that application. But it really shines when you get into less than perfect traction situations. Its a VERY street friendly diff. while also providing a great platform for a off road and drag racing diff. I had one in my Cobra, and literally beat that thing to death and it never once gave once. My car has over 600hp to the rear wheels. I launched that thing on slicks as hard as possible, banged gears, nitrous shots, everything possible. And they are near bulletproof....Just install them correctly and it will probably last longer than your truck. I used Valvoline synthetic gear oil along with the small bottle of positve traction additive, last for over 45,000 miles of hard abuse without missing a beat.
 
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Just got my Transgo kit in the mail. Holy crap is that a small amount of parts for $200!

And I just read that the TruTrac is only for 2wd trucks?

That sucks. So I have to launch in 4H, and hope for the best?
I believe the reason why the 4X4 guys choose ABS and other "lockers" is because if the 50/50 ratio you get right away when you need it. Truetrac should work with 4X4's its just that you will not be able to lock it like you would the front, but the gear will ALWAYS be there for you on demand when you need and it will never fail like our stock rears... Its better than nothing. Truetrac works based on the amount of torque applied at the pedal, which locks rear, the off-road guys can't rely on that because when rock climbing they need that 50/50 at all times.... Just something to think about.
 

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I really only wanted the TruTrac for street application, namely to get rid of the impending one-tire-fire when I get the LTs and UpRev installed.

What Teh Wicked is saying is true... Truetrac is virtually indestructible, unless bolts back out. LMAO But that is what the loctite is for. Truetrac helped me on the street tremendously, you will finally have PURE traction, but beware when roads are wet. It will be much easier to kick the rear out because both tires will light up, versus one being neutral maintaining traction... It really helps too when I am coming off a back road on to a good road. On the cheap road that tire would spin but once the other tire hits the good road, I take off like a bat out of hell. Its a good safety feature.
 

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^^^ ROFLMAO Man, I think I bought the 4X4 one... You want to swap? lol Not bashing on anyone, it just that what bestatchess wrote is funny....
 

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The TruTrac is at least as good on a 4x4 as on a 2wd, (better than the 2wd's that don't have Active Brake Limited Slip, (ABLS), which I think all 4x4's come with). Compared to the factory elock it is better for high speed applications because the elock has a 12 mph upper limit and can only be used in 4LO, while the TT doesn't add any speed limitations which aren't already there for 2WD, 4HI, and 4LO.

If I didn't have the elock, I would most likely get the TT, or maybe the ARB air locker if I wanted to pursue more crawling. Some have sacrificed their elocks for TT for the high speed advantage, and to prevent the spider gears from going out, since the TT replaces them.

Launching in 4HI without a TT will still give you 1 wheel peel but on two axles, because you're still running open differentials, just two of them at the same time. ABLS might help some but it's using the brakes on the spinning wheel. The TT and the 2wd setting would be better, and would likely lock the other wheel in before the ABLS engaged unless you have a wheel off the ground off roading. There is also a thread on here somewhere about a mod that can be done to temporarily disable ABLS, which you wouldn't want to do off road, but maybe at the track.

Question on high capacity diff covers ... why?
If your diff gets hot, (mine never did even with the '04 steel cover to 93K miles when they replaced it with the finned one for free without asking me). I can see the logic of more fluid so it takes longer to get hot, if it does, but once it did, it would also take longer to cool down as well. If your OEM cover is hot all the time then a high capacity cover seems like it would be too unless you are taking mostly short trips. But if it only gets hot when towing up a long grade, a high capacity cover would take much longer to cool the fluid back to it's normal operating temperature than the OEM cover, because of the smaller fluid capacity. Just curious, since mine has always run cool.
 
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