Can you give some kind of instructions on the install so I can get an idea what it takes to do this? I and the rest of us would really appreciate it man!! I'm ready for TT big time. I want TT and (2) lightweight rims with some DR's or slicks on them
True Trac update
Installed the True Trac a couple months back. Fairly simple on the Titans. Just dumped the dyno break in oil and replaced with full synthetic.
NO MORE ONE WHEEL PEEL! That alone is worth the cost. Probably recoup the TT cost in not replacing one tire all the time. This is the rear end the Titans SHOULD come with from factory. I love it! Improved use of torque off the line. Really launches the truck. Seems smoother, no clunking when shift into drive/reverse. Gas mileage even seemed to imporve slightly. Probably due to more efficiencly of the driveline and less waste on tire spin. I'm extremely happy with this upgrade.
Will be hauling the travel trailer this weekend and look forward to seeing how the rear end handles the load.
NO MORE ONE WHEEL PEEL! That alone is worth the cost. Probably recoup the TT cost in not replacing one tire all the time. This is the rear end the Titans SHOULD come with from factory. I love it! Improved use of torque off the line. Really launches the truck. Seems smoother, no clunking when shift into drive/reverse. Gas mileage even seemed to imporve slightly. Probably due to more efficiencly of the driveline and less waste on tire spin. I'm extremely happy with this upgrade.
Will be hauling the travel trailer this weekend and look forward to seeing how the rear end handles the load.
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Yup, I've got a brand new one sitting in the living room with new races and bearings as well.
Only local place wants $650+ for the install, but I found a place a few hours away that'll do it for closer to $250.
Have you worked on rear ends before? Did you have someone help you?
I'm seriously thinking about Craigslisting an ad for an experienced, possibly out-of-work mechanic to come to my house and help me with this and some of the other parts I need installed.
I'm mechanically inclined, but I'm no mechanic. It would be nice if I could help with the installation of my own parts, both for the fun of the experience AND to save a little dinero.
Anything you can tell us will help.
Only local place wants $650+ for the install, but I found a place a few hours away that'll do it for closer to $250.
Have you worked on rear ends before? Did you have someone help you?
I'm seriously thinking about Craigslisting an ad for an experienced, possibly out-of-work mechanic to come to my house and help me with this and some of the other parts I need installed.
I'm mechanically inclined, but I'm no mechanic. It would be nice if I could help with the installation of my own parts, both for the fun of the experience AND to save a little dinero.
Anything you can tell us will help.
cant be any different than installing a diff no? other than the super long axles you gotta move out the way..
Here is my diff install on my Z....
DIY: Quaife LSD install in a BASE 350Z : 350z / 370z Discussion
Checking backlash shouldnt be too hard.. I need to look into this as well... now that I have a DIFF and I know how much of a difference it makes compared to an open diff.. I wouldnt mind checkin out for the titan.. If I ever do mine - I will for sure do a DIY with detailed pics of the install..
LD5050 - if you are going to get it done anywhere near DFW - let me know. Wouldnt mind checkin it out - turnin some wrenches..
Here is my diff install on my Z....
DIY: Quaife LSD install in a BASE 350Z : 350z / 370z Discussion
Checking backlash shouldnt be too hard.. I need to look into this as well... now that I have a DIFF and I know how much of a difference it makes compared to an open diff.. I wouldnt mind checkin out for the titan.. If I ever do mine - I will for sure do a DIY with detailed pics of the install..
LD5050 - if you are going to get it done anywhere near DFW - let me know. Wouldnt mind checkin it out - turnin some wrenches..
The cheapest place I found that sounded like they knew their head from a hole in the ground was in Dallas:
stan hopkins co
8370 C F Hawn Freeway
Dallas, TX 75217-7009
(214) 398-0636
stan hopkins co
8370 C F Hawn Freeway
Dallas, TX 75217-7009
(214) 398-0636
http://www.titantalk.com/forums/titan-engine-transmission-drivetrain/112715-diff-gear-swap-info.htmlInstalled the True Trac a couple months back. Fairly simple on the Titans. Just dumped the dyno break in oil and replaced with full synthetic.
NO MORE ONE WHEEL PEEL! That alone is worth the cost. Probably recoup the TT cost in not replacing one tire all the time. This is the rear end the Titans SHOULD come with from factory. I love it! Improved use of torque off the line. Really launches the truck. Seems smoother, no clunking when shift into drive/reverse. Gas mileage even seemed to imporve slightly. Probably due to more efficiencly of the driveline and less waste on tire spin. I'm extremely happy with this upgrade.
Will be hauling the travel trailer this weekend and look forward to seeing how the rear end handles the load.
Old man Hooper & John at J&S Gear said non synthetic gear oil was best for a LSD
I had never worked on a rear end prior to this experience. Did a bit of research on the forums and compiled the best info. Also used the service manual for reference. Originally thought I would need a dial torque wrench to check bearing preloads, but an old timer rear end specialist told me if I wasn't messing with the pinion at all that it was pointless. This made the job MUCh easier. Really, it was as simple as jack up, drain out, pull cover off, remove bearing plates from axles and pull them out a little. I marked everything inside the rear end for exact stock location. Checked backlash and used gear marking paste to check the pattern. Pulled out the old gear set, swapped the ring gear, installed TT and checked backlash again. I could have put the bearing cups back to stock but went one hole tighter on the one side to tighten backlash. Mine was a little on the high end of spec. Reassembled and ran dino oil for break in. After 500 miles I dumped the dino, pulled the cover and rechecked backlash and gear pattern. Nothing had changed. Loctite is your friend and torque everything properly. Titan rear ends are waaay easier to work on than say a Chev from what I found out. This is not a job I would be afraid of, just allow yourself the time. I did run into a problem with the axle seal/bearing plates. A couple of the studs spun on me. I did not have a welder to tack them in place so had to get creative.
Yup, I've got a brand new one sitting in the living room with new races and bearings as well.
Only local place wants $650+ for the install, but I found a place a few hours away that'll do it for closer to $250.
Have you worked on rear ends before? Did you have someone help you?
I'm seriously thinking about Craigslisting an ad for an experienced, possibly out-of-work mechanic to come to my house and help me with this and some of the other parts I need installed.
I'm mechanically inclined, but I'm no mechanic. It would be nice if I could help with the installation of my own parts, both for the fun of the experience AND to save a little dinero.
Anything you can tell us will help.
WHY do they say this? No one has given me an explanation and others are running synthetic successfully. Just like Nissan states "Nissan J Matic only" in the tranny and yet I have been running Red Line synthetic for years. I find it is usually based on preferance/marketing and not science. If you have a compelling reason to stick with dino, then I will consider it.
http://www.titantalk.com/forums/titan-engine-transmission-drivetrain/112715-diff-gear-swap-info.html
Old man Hooper & John at J&S Gear said non synthetic gear oil was best for a LSD
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WHY do they say this? No one has given me an explanation and others are running synthetic successfully. Just like Nissan states "Nissan J Matic only" in the tranny and yet I have been running Red Line synthetic for years. I find it is usually based on preferance/marketing and not science. If you have a compelling reason to stick with dino, then I will consider it.
I agree the old clutch type of LSD my not grab correctly with the synthetic, but the Trutrac is a Torsen or gear style LSD and the type of fluid will not make any difference. I have been running Royal Purple Synthetic for thousands of miles with no problems, except of the well known problem of the bolts backing out due to the wrong type of locktite used at Eatons factory.
Yes, there is no clutches to slip in a TruTrac. It's driven by helical "worm style" gears.
What version (year) of TT did you install? I believe they solved the bolt issue by going with more and smaller bolts. I made sure the TT version I installed was current.I agree the old clutch type of LSD my not grab correctly with the synthetic, but the Trutrac is a Torsen or gear style LSD and the type of fluid will not make any difference. I have been running Royal Purple Synthetic for thousands of miles with no problems, except of the well known problem of the bolts backing out due to the wrong type of locktite used at Eatons factory.
Yes, being a helical gear style LSD, not clutch pack style, there will be no slipping whatsoever, no matter the lube used. I have had great success with Red Line synthetics in both the rear end and the transmission. Never ever see the tranny heat gauge move, even towing a heavy load up hill.
IDK, it has been installed for 3+ years now.What version (year) of TT did you install? I believe they solved the bolt issue by going with more and smaller bolts. I made sure the TT version I installed was current.
I also agree, you can put K.Y. in there and it will still work.... LOLYes, being a helical gear style LSD, not clutch pack style, there will be no slipping whatsoever, no matter the lube used. I have had great success with Red Line synthetics in both the rear end and the transmission. Never ever see the tranny heat gauge move, even towing a heavy load up hill.
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
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