[GatorT]

I have seen numerous posts about TT in 2008+ axles but most of the installs I can find are for 04-07. On justdifferentials.com it says that 08+ need to swap the driver side axle with passenger side and passenger to driver side. Is this correct? Thanks for any input.

 

[ricquil09]

Do you have a pro4x w/ elocker?
If you dont, you are good on installing a trutrac,

 

[GatorT]

No, I have an 05 with a 08 axle. Thanks

 

[CVTitan05]

04-15 Axles are all exactly the same axle. Nissan screwed up and said they changed the spline count, but they didnt.

Only difference in axles is like ricquil09 said, if you have the elocker, then you will need different axle shafts, as the elocker rearends had shorter shafts.

 

[GatorT]

Thanks

 

[nightowl]

It will fit just fine. Josh19k proved that on his 09. There is a thread on here about it somewhere

 

[GatorT]

Update on post, I kept original rearend and had it rebuilt. I just had truetrac installed from local 4x4 shop that says they had experience and had done a few. All seems to be OK and then tonight I started getting a howling or whining sound from rearend. Anyone have a ideas? I did read from another post that said synthetic gear oil can cause this whining? I had Amsoil synthetic gear oil put in with install. Any suggestions would be great. Thanks

 

[BWV]

A freshly rebuilt rear shouldn't howl or whine because of oil, unless there was a lack of it or they used something too thin.

Avoid driving it till you can have the shop flatbed it back to correct it.
That is, if you have confidence in them and they are decent folks that will make it right.

It could be a bearing failing... or could be they didn't set the pinion depth, ring gear side position and backlash correctly. It can be tedious to do right.

What exactly did "had it rebuilt" include? Side bearings, pinion bearings, ring and pinion? or did they just stick new side bearings on the new diff and drop it in?

If they reused the ring and pinion, regarding the contact pattern on the teeth... its really gotta go back in set up as close as possible to where it was with the old.
I've seen guys just put new side bearings on the original diff, leaving the shims or adjusters where they were and have it work out ok...cause bearings are usually real close (I'd check it..but thats me...)... but if your shop replaced all the bearings and installed a new TruTrack... that probably wouldn't fly... it's gotta be set up right... and if they replaced the pinion bearings and seal.. the depth should also have been set correctly or dead on with what it was before.

The gears shoulda been marked before disassembly to see what the contact pattern looked like, and then installed and shimmed up to get it as close to that original pattern as possible.

Gears with some miles on them can be noisy if not set up real close to what they were before new bearings, and that noise can precede gear damage.

Hoping for the best for you.. good luck.

 

[GatorT]

I had the pinion and seals replaced a few months ago, I put off TT install then because that guy didn't feel comfortable and I didn't want any issues. I did some more research and found a local 4x4 shop has some reviews stating they had done quite a few so I went with them. They replaced pinion and side bearings with TT install. I drove it all day an did not notice any issues or noise. then tonight I kept hearing a slight whine around 45-55 that would come and go. it seemed that at 55 area it would be the loudest. it wasn't real loud but noticeable. I'm not sure I trust them now but I will question them on whether they did the stuff from above then go from there. Thank for the response.

 

[GatorT]

So If they didn't do the stuff above, can it be fixed now?

 

[jdmartin]

Call me paranoid, but I would only have a rear diff installed by a differential specialist. Anyone can stick one in, it's getting it positioned exactly right that takes know-how. I would think a 4x4 shop would know how to do this, but some diffs have more tolerance than others, and some of these shops just swap in entire axles, which doesn't even involve opening the pumpkin. I had a supposed driveline specialist destroy the rear diff in a GMC truck I owned years ago, so I'm probably a little more paranoid than most about these things.

 

[dreep]

Two thoughts... first, Eaton used to recommend that synthetic gear fluid not be used. They have recently changed that, saying synthetic lubes are OK, and that the recommendations of the vehicle manufacturer be followed to protect bearings and seals. Here's their newest language, from page 24 of their installation manual - found at this link: http://www.eaton.com/ecm/idcplg?IdcService=GET_FILE&allowInterrupt=1&RevisionSelectionMethod=LatestReleased&noSaveAs=0&Rendition=Primary&dDocName=PCT_1087652

Detroit Truetrac®
High quality mineral or synthetic gear lubes are required for use in Detroit Truetrac differentials. Regardless of the lube type, always use a GL5 rated lube with the least amount of friction modifier. Mineral lubes lacking friction modifiers (limited-slip additives) were historically recommended for all Truetrac applications because friction modifiers can slightly reduce the bias ratio (limited-slip aggressiveness) of Truetrac differentials. However, to address the continually increasing power outputs of modern powertrains, many vehicle manufacturers have switched to synthetic lubricants as a counter measure for increased axle temperatures and prolonged service intervals. In general, consult the vehicle owner's manual for the manufacturer's recommendations for lubrication type, weight and fill volume. This will ensure lube compatibility with the seal materials and bearings used in the axle. Eaton Performance technical support is available for any concerns in lube selection.
​

Second, I agree with BWV, the fluid isn't what would cause the whining. If the gears weren't set up appropriately, that would be the cause. Take it back to the shop and have them listen to it and address the issue. Sounds like its probably a reputable place. They should be able to handle it.

Good luck!

 

[Pale Rider]

Two thoughts... first, Eaton used to recommend that synthetic gear fluid not be used. They have recently changed that, saying synthetic lubes are OK, and that the recommendations of the vehicle manufacturer be followed to protect bearings and seals. Here's their newest language, from page 24 of their installation manual - found at this link: http://www.eaton.com/ecm/idcplg?IdcService=GET_FILE&allowInterrupt=1&RevisionSelectionMethod=LatestReleased&noSaveAs=0&Rendition=Primary&dDocName=PCT_1087652

Detroit Truetrac®
High quality mineral or synthetic gear lubes are required for use in Detroit Truetrac differentials. Regardless of the lube type, always use a GL5 rated lube with the least amount of friction modifier. Mineral lubes lacking friction modifiers (limited-slip additives) were historically recommended for all Truetrac applications because friction modifiers can slightly reduce the bias ratio (limited-slip aggressiveness) of Truetrac differentials. However, to address the continually increasing power outputs of modern powertrains, many vehicle manufacturers have switched to synthetic lubricants as a counter measure for increased axle temperatures and prolonged service intervals. In general, consult the vehicle owner's manual for the manufacturer's recommendations for lubrication type, weight and fill volume. This will ensure lube compatibility with the seal materials and bearings used in the axle. Eaton Performance technical support is available for any concerns in lube selection.
​

Second, I agree with BWV, the fluid isn't what would cause the whining. If the gears weren't set up appropriately, that would be the cause. Take it back to the shop and have them listen to it and address the issue. Sounds like its probably a reputable place. They should be able to handle it.

Good luck!

agreed.

on a different locker:
in doing some reading on the Spartan Locker, I came across the info on the Frontier.org site and over the net that the best lube to use was Lucas gear lube. The netters and members experience with the spartan was relaying that synthetics caused the Spartan to be clunky and making a ton of noise in relation to how the Spartan locker works.

I have Amsoil severe gear on the shelf and was installed in the Titan rear with the Spartan locker and also experienced what they were claiming. Typically my gear lube choices were Amsoil and Valvoline synth.
So I dumped the Amsoil severe gear in favor of Lucas 85/140 and it was indeed a dramatic noise difference and less clunking on engagement, on off throttle, reverse to forward gear changes. of course if your still rolling in one direction or the other while making gear changes you will create more noise in this situation.

moral of story:
I have been using Lucas so far, already did another gear oil service, fluid looked good, with the normal wear metals. 13,xxxmiles on the locker.

link> Heavy Duty 85W-140 Gear Oil

 

[dreep]

Thanks, PR, good add. As I recall from time spent years ago at Lime Rock, the BMW crowd at the track mostly used SWEPCO 201 - mineral-based, similar to the Lucas gear oil.

I didn't quite finish my first thought, it seems. Needed more coffee. Although Eaton now says synthetics are OK for the TrueTrac, the helical gears seem to like mineral-based oil for smooth operation, and no clunks. The lockup may be more noisy with synthetics, but that wouldn't explain the whining... which is what I was trying to say.

Always wanted to try Red Line 75W140 NS Gear Oil to see if that formulation, which is synthetic but specifically lacks friction modifiers in their other gear oil, might give the best of both worlds - synthetic base stocks, and perhaps smoother lockup without noise / clunks. The NS formulation is designed for tracked cars with limited slip diffs. Anyway, currently have a factory e-locker, so I can't experiment.

Cheers!

 

[GatorT]

Thanks for the input everyone, I took it back to them this morning and they could hear the noise but I'm still waiting on the final update but the preliminary was possible e-brake issue from re-install. I hope that's it.

 

[Pale Rider]

Thanks, PR, good add. As I recall from time spent years ago at Lime Rock, the BMW crowd at the track mostly used SWEPCO 201 - mineral-based, similar to the Lucas gear oil.

I didn't quite finish my first thought, it seems. Needed more coffee. Although Eaton now says synthetics are OK for the TrueTrac, the helical gears seem to like mineral-based oil for smooth operation, and no clunks. The lockup may be more noisy with synthetics, but that wouldn't explain the whining... which is what I was trying to say.

Always wanted to try Red Line 75W140 NS Gear Oil to see if that formulation, which is synthetic but specifically lacks friction modifiers in their other gear oil, might give the best of both worlds - synthetic base stocks, and perhaps smoother lockup without noise / clunks. The NS formulation is designed for tracked cars with limited slip diffs. Anyway, currently have a factory e-locker, so I can't experiment.

Cheers!

hahaha, I`m having more coffee now, lol...
Thanks for that bit of info. :big_grin:

you say redline, hmmm, I`ve used various flavors of MT-MTL in the asian gear boxes (nissan altima coupe 6spd) and there was a dramatic difference in the way the gear box shifted, for the good of course. I`ve also used the redline gear lubes in some domestic rear axles. heck, I`ve even used a slurry of sorts of redline in the watercraft jet pumps. BTW Amsoil severe gear blended with Amsoil waterproof grease into a slurry was commonly used in the SeaDoo and yamaha jet pumps in lieu of the pasty grease and oils that came stock.

but in regards to normal day to day DD`s, ie: our Past Frontier, FJ cruiser, Ford E250, Xterra, etc etc I used Amsoil sever gear in transfer cases, except where ATF is used, and the front & rear diffs... no issues at all.:wink:

 

[GatorT]

I just got truck back and they say there is nothing wrong with install but I completely disagree. There is a whine from the rear-end that you can hear at 40 and above. I have attached a link with audio file of whine. you can hear it at multiple points but at the 1:01 to 1:22 it's really noticeable.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0By6K3ceK28l8NUhSaXVQbVRRdzA

 

[dreep]

That's not normal. Did they say what they did to decide it's OK?

Take a look at this thread, post 4 has a good set of by-ear diagnostics for differential noise, and post 7 gives a quick check for pinion bearing wear or setting, which can cause whining if it lets the pinion gear move around. If they replaced the bearing, I'm worried that BWV nailed it regarding reusing the gear set, and they didn't get the setup right.
http://www.titantalk.com/forums/titan-engine-transmission-drivetrain/368162-whining-noise-under-load.html.
LC seems to be our resident differential setup expert, BTW.

 

[Pale Rider]

I just got truck back and they say there is nothing wrong with install but I completely disagree. There is a whine from the rear-end that you can hear at 40 and above. I have attached a link with audio file of whine. you can hear it at multiple points but at the 1:01 to 1:22 it's really noticeable.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0By6K3ceK28l8NUhSaXVQbVRRdzA

wow! you can def hear it. doubt its the e brake.

 

[GatorT]

That's not normal. Did they say what they did to decide it's OK?

Take a look at this thread, post 4 has a good set of by-ear diagnostics for differential noise, and post 7 gives a quick check for pinion bearing wear or setting, which can cause whining if it lets the pinion gear move around. If they replaced the bearing, I'm worried that BWV nailed it regarding reusing the gear set, and they didn't get the setup right.
http://www.titantalk.com/forums/tit...ivetrain/368162-whining-noise-under-load.html.
LC seems to be our resident differential setup expert, BTW.

I took it back for 2 reasons 1st and most important was whining in rearend and 2nd was ebrake wasn't adjusted to stop truck at all like it was when I dropped it off. They decided that ebrake was causing all the issue until I drove it home and realized it wasn't. So it's going back for 3rd time this week to completely pull it all apart and reset it all. I now have numerous docs to give them and help them do the job they should've done to begin with or at least I hope so. I leave for mountains Saturday morning for 10 days and this has become more than stressful to say the least. Thanks for everyone's input.

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