2004 Nissan Titan 109K miles. I would turn the key to the first two positions and everything worked fine. When I turned it to the third and "start" position,all I would hear was a click through the dash towards the passenger side, but the engine would not even try to crank over. This happened about every 20 starts until finally it happened more frequently to the point it would would not crank at. When it did crank, it would fire right up. I read numerous posts on the forum to trouble shoot it before I took it to the shop, and I believed it would be the starter (my worst fear knowing where the starter was located). Sure enough it was a bad starter. The repair cost including a fresh oil change and inspection was $650.00. I consider this an expensive repair, but I really like the particular shop I took it to and trust the owner and the techs. Besides routine service, radiator, and brakes the truck has not been expensive to maintain at all, so parting with the $650.00 was a no-brainer for a truck that has served me well for the past 10 years! The best part about it, besides a truck that starts, was that they had to take off the so much stuff to get to the starter that they had to replace the manifold gaskets. My titan had the problem of a bad driver's side gasket and made the exhaust leak noise at start up until the manifold gasket got warmed up. Now I have a truck that starts again and makes no more noise at start up. The truck now gets handed down my daughter who gets her driver's license today! I wonder how long she will have it before she wrecks it. Not a single wreck or dent over the past ten years....maybe I gave it good "MOJO"!
'04 Titan 239,419 miles. A few weeks ago I started having the same problem as Kaiser. The truck is normally in Georgia. Since I'm temporarily in Kansas I initially thought it might be the colder temps because it was only happening in the morning. A few days ago it was happening during other times of the day but usually after the car had been sitting for a while. Had battery checked. OK. And, like Kaiser, when it did turn over it started with gusto so I discounted the battery.
Yesterday it was happening through out the day and very random. What did seem to work was instead of turning the key all the way back to "lock", I would only go back to "3" and gently jiggle the key then try again. It would work.
Since jvig1014 only posted today, I'd like to hear how its going in a few weeks. I hope for his sake it is the starter. I'm leaning towards the ignition switch. Its $400+. Either way, not what I was expecting right after Christmas.
Didn't happen to my T, but similar situation in my wife's Sonata. Had power, lights to everything, heard the fuel pump when the key was turned, but wouldn't fire, didn't even make a sound. It sat for 2 days, said let's give it another try and has fired up over 10 times in a row. Took it to the dealership as it's only a 2011 with 34k, just got a call that they got it to act up and turned out to be the starter.
During the past week or so the weather got better, had the occasional starting problem but this afternoon.....nothing for about ten minutes. Around the time you were posting I was cursing at the top of my lungs! I was 30+ miles, 2 towns away from where I'm living. Finally got it started and hauled butt home!
Still in Kansas after my last update, no tools or a dry place above 32 degrees to swap out the starter myself and the shops are 2 weeks out. So I had more time think about the problem.
Although I've not been able to find a diagram showing the mechanical & electrical together or a picture showing the insides of the steering column, I think there is a contact in the gear mechanism that tells the system its either in Park or Neutral. If the contact isn't made the system assumes its in D,R,L or.....won't start.
There is a little play in the gear and while in Park it tends to rest away from the steering wheel, closer to the dash. Initially I found that if I pull the gear, slightly, towards me a few times I hear a clicking. I'd turn the key and it would start. Now I nolonger pull and release, I pull slightly till I hear the click and hold, turn the key and it turns every time.
I think before when I thought it was in the ignition switch I may have been moving the gear switch as well.
Should be heading back to GA in a couple of weeks and should be able to find a repair shop. I'll post if and when i get it fixed.
I'm having a similar issue. Mine will crank just fine but it will start to sputter and die. All the lights and stuff on the dash will flicker and stuff when this is happening. Then it will crank up and run just fine until it randomly decides to mess up. I've shaken the cables on the battery thinking maybe a loose cable or bad battery but it didn't change anything. Still ran fine. I don't know. Any help?
My 2004 Titan sits for months and unfortunately I neglected to even turn it over for weeks, so the 4 year old battery drained to the point that I could only get a few clicks at the first attempt to start it.
So then I got my jump starter connected and tried it. Switched ON the starter and immediately got a whirring sound from something under the hood on the driver side - (anyone know what that is?), then got in and turned the key, and got absolutely nothing. Repositioned the clamps(maybe without turning off the jumper switch) and then tried again - nothing. Cabin lights still go on, but no ignition attempt whatsoever.
Switched out the battery for a new one and still nothing.
Checked fuses and they all look intact except on the + terminal, the fuse closest to the terminal seems to be burnt. Tried to bridge that gap with a small piece of aluminum foil and then with a screwdriver tip but nothing changed when I reconnected everything.
Changed out the Nissan OEM Fusible Link Holder 24380-79915 and nothing has changed.
So far new battery, and clean terminals and new fusible link holder and there is no change...cabin lights go on, door ajar sound works, but nothing happens when I turn the key at all. Silence. Even the whirring on the driver's side in the engine compartment stopped(happened only twice, when I first hooked up the jumper and when I first switched out the battery). BTW, the "old" battery is now in my wife's Honda Odyssey and working great.
Too cold to get under the truck to tap the starter or check for voltage.
I've been back in Georgia now for 2 years. Have only had the problem once. 3 months ago in Dec.
This may be a stretch but I'm sure the contact in the ignition/steering column has to be closed for the starter & battery to be triggered when turning the key. I would be like trying to start an automatic in neutral. While in Georgia, the barely closed contact may be receiving some assistance from the more conductive humid air.
Just a thought. In any event I would try playing with the gear shift while trying to start before replacing any parts.
Thought it had to be something electrical that was the problem so with the new battery in place I tried a few more things.
First a brief summary: New battery, turn the ignition and get no dash light and no click or any sound whatsoever in any position attempting to start it. Cabin lights and horn and door lock/unlock are working. Moved shifter into different positions, jiggled around, tried starting in Neutral....nothing. Back to battery and jiggled positive and negative terminal cables....got the dash lights and cabin bell for a second while turning key but no crank or anything else and then nothing after first turn of the key. Then get out and jiggle positive terminal where I had replaced the Nissan OEM Fusible Link Holder....nothing at all at turn of the key. Then get out and jiggle the negative/ground wire....turn the key and get the dash light and cabin bell for a moment.....sooooo, ordered and switched out the negative/ground cable and get in the driver seat and ROAR!!!!!!!!! to a start.
Even as I was doing the connection of the new cable, the security horn went off as soon as I touched the terminal to the post making me know we had a much stronger electrical signal.
So lesson learned to look at both leads off the battery once you are sure the battery is good.
Thanks and hope this helps some in the future. BTW, $20 for the first Fusible Link Holder and an additional $19 for the negative/ground cable which both were very easy to switch out.
I'm having an issue where the starter "clicks" and I have to continue to try the key until it finally starts. Usually, happens when the T is hot (can be sitting for hours in the sun and it won't start). Seldom happens in the mornings or nights. The battery is good, and the starter was changed out a month ago. I also had this issue with the older starter and think its what ultimately killed it. Anyone else having this issue? Clicks 3-4-5 even 6 or more times until I can coax her to start.
Hey GTtitan do you have any other info on the switch/contact you are talking about in the steering column? I agree there must be something that tells the truck it is in park to allow it to start. I just started having the same issue today and want to get ahead of it (hoping it is not the starter). When i turned my key this morning to accessory and on everything was normal, but when i clicked it to start absolutely nothing happened. My gut is telling me it is something simple like the switch you are referring to but wondered if you had any details. I would have though that switch would be under the gear shift somewhere. Is your gear shift on the steering column or down on the center console? Mine is in the center console.
I can't imagine I have a bad starter because mine is doing what others have stated, there are no relay clicks and no attempt for the truck to start at all.
There is a recall involving the ECM relay, TSB NTB10-137b
The TSB list 04-06 but give the dealer a call anyway with your VIN.
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