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Discussion Starter #1
Ok so this all started in June of last year. Started my truck moved it about 15 feet to load an aquarium backed it up and it never would start again. So here's what's been replaced. Ipdm can and crank sensors planned on upgrading my fuel pump so I did that too areomotive 340. Towed it to the dealer and they said my pump was bad (wrong) then they said I had the can and crank position sensors in the opposite locations which I know is incorrect as well because I broke the first crank sensor trying to get it in. I got the truck back from them running but not running well which is better than not at all. The slip and cel are on. I don't remember the code for the cel but it's got the crank sensor. So I replaced it yet again with no luck and the same code. The slip light I believe is on because of my axle seals....The truck will start fine sometimes and others it doesn't. When in the idling the rpms are erratic I got it to about 50 and I've seen the rpms jump 1000. I haven't driven it because I'm afraid to blow it up. I have searched and seen some pretty bad possibilities of anyone has any input it's greatly appreciated.
 

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If you can't give me codes then I'm forced to tell you to check the wiring....anything that has been spliced or compromised in any way.
 
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Discussion Starter #4
The only one it throws is the P0335 I haven't taken any of the wiring out of its factory loom but everything looks intact as far as never being tampered with.
 

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Start from the beginning how long have you owned the truck, how many miles how it acted before the problem started, what has been replaced by you or the dealer, if anything before it had the issues i.e spark plugs coil packs, etc and what has been done after the issues.
what sounds is it making any weird smells i.e burning plastic, rubber or fuel etc.
if you bought it used, do you have any services records on it? and if so what has been replaced.
then maybe we can help narrow down the problem, thanks
 

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That's a crank sensor code, but it could be more than just a sensor.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Start from the beginning how long have you owned the truck, how many miles how it acted before the problem started, what has been replaced by you or the dealer, if anything before it had the issues i.e spark plugs coil packs, etc and what has been done after the issues.
what sounds is it making any weird smells i.e burning plastic, rubber or fuel etc.
if you bought it used, do you have any services records on it? and if so what has been replaced.
then maybe we can help narrow down the problem, thanks
Ive had the truck for about 2 years. So this has been one hell of a process so far, I do work out of town so I limited time to work on it. it has just under 100k. It ran like a raped ape I could light my 35's up at 20mph. New Crank sensor, New Cam sensor, New Mass air, New IPDM, New fuel Pump (aeromotive 340) New Battery. I've cleaned the throttle body. plugs were replaced at @ 80k. it does smell rich to me. I do not have service records unfortunately. when this originally started it was throwing P0221 which is throttle position sensor, after the dealer had it this code was gone but there was no mention of a problem there or the code, so I brought it up and the answer I got was they did not find any issues there..... This particular stealership was a joke if you ask me. they literally kept calling me telling me it was this or that and I would tell them that "this or That" is brand new then they would call back and say that the issue was something else and the process would repeat itself. they also had the truck for 3 weeks. if they can't find it with consult in 3 weeks something is not right IMHO. I think they were just trying to replace everything!!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
That's a crank sensor code, but it could be more than just a sensor.
Yeah and its had 3 different ones in it. I broke the first one.... I have checked the loom and everything looks in place as far as factory goes but I hope that there is not a broken wire what a pain in the *** that would be. I have heard of flex plate issues could this be a possible culprit?
 

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when it was just a tps code what was the truck acting like?
have you checked all exposed wiring from the battery to the fuse block and so on ( engine wiring harness) for cuts nicks abrasions, anywhere moister or water could enter and corrode the wires. because if it is not mechanical like broken engine parts it is probably electrical. have you checked for air leaks around the intake system?
check out a couple of threads on here like
http://www.titantalk.com/forums/tit...lip-light-crank-shaft-pos-sensor-problem.html
its not all of the same symptoms but it can give you some ideas.
and it does sound like that dealership is just part changers, you know throw enough new parts at it and something has to work.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
when it was just a tps code what was the truck acting like?
have you checked all exposed wiring from the battery to the fuse block and so on ( engine wiring harness) for cuts nicks abrasions, anywhere moister or water could enter and corrode the wires. because if it is not mechanical like broken engine parts it is probably electrical. have you checked for air leaks around the intake system?
check out a couple of threads on here like
http://www.titantalk.com/forums/tit...lip-light-crank-shaft-pos-sensor-problem.html
its not all of the same symptoms but it can give you some ideas.
and it does sound like that dealership is just part changers, you know throw enough new parts at it and something has to work.
That's just it there was no code the truck was fine I moved it 15 feet forward and back and then nothing and I got the throttle position and crank postion sensor code. Yes to the rest of your questions. I have read plety of threads on it and I'm hoping someone possibly had the same issue and sees this thread. If it's the timing chains this truck is leaving the stable period. I could see if it had belts like the tundra but for a timing chain to stretch that much in under 100k come on you might as well make them out of duct tape hell it would Prolly be stronger than whatever they are using. The flex plate I saw was also another issue with people cracking them.
 

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Got LED tail lamp bulbs? Take them out. Put in OEM.
Is the wiring harness above the exhaust manifold melted?
Is the connector under the right front splash panel in good nick?
These three things will all cause the kind of BS you're seeing so look at some simple stuff.
 
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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Got LED tail lamp bulbs? Take them out. Put in OEM.
Is the wiring harness above the exhaust manifold melted?
Is the connector under the right front splash panel in good nick?
These three things will all cause the kind of BS you're seeing so look at some simple stuff.
I don't have LED tails however I do have them in my marker and turn signals. They do have a resistor on them. I have not checked the harness by the manifold. I did read about the exhaust melting the rear harness and some having issues like mine. i will be checking that next. the connector on the passenger side is locked in, i may pull it out to check the connections and spray everything with some corrosionx. I also have removed all of my grounds cleaned the surfaces and remounted them. Thanks for the input bro. if anyone else has anything that raises a red flag feel free to throw it in.
 

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Oops. Harness above the tail pipe.
 

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Are the battery terminals and ancillary connections CLEAN? These trucks like steady voltage.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Are the battery terminals and ancillary connections CLEAN? These trucks like steady voltage.
Yeah and I have actually beefed all of that up. got rid of the factory battery connectors mainly because they were trashed. I used stereo terminals a piece of 0/0 wire about a half inch long with a copper lug to attach the fuse block.
 

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Have you checked the wiring and connector that attaches to the rear diff? Mine was getting melted by the exhaust so I wrapped it up in some heat shielding. IDK maybe you've got exposed wires shorting the whole system out. It's easy to check, so might as well rule it out if you can.
 
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Discussion Starter #17
Have you checked the wiring and connector that attaches to the rear diff? Mine was getting melted by the exhaust so I wrapped it up in some heat shielding. IDK maybe you've got exposed wires shorting the whole system out. It's easy to check, so might as well rule it out if you can.
Have not checked it yet but as soon as I get back in town thats the first place I am going! SLIP light is on as well so I am guessing that it may have something to do with it.
 
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