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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
*Warning* LOOONNG POST

My '05 sat for a little more than 2 years due to some unforeseen circumstances in life. I have recently regained a lot more mobility and have started to address things that needed repaired and overdue maintenance. As a matter of fact the day I decided to make this a "to do" (among other things) I joined TT. I can't begin to explain the drive (pun intended) that I've built up by reading everyone's posts and receiving instruction,support and encouragement by members here. Yes, simply responding to someone's post here can make a difference in their life,way beyond just the post at hand. You never who you're talking to beyond the vail and the circumstances from which they reach out from. With that said, Thank You and you are very much appreciated.

Now,let's get to my truck repair/mod list,checked off items and help with items.

1) oem bumper,right fender/headlight assembly,windshield replacement *check* insurance covered all this and I was able to beef up my bumper to the Fab Four ranch hand style as seen on avatar/profile pic. As stated b4,I really do need a lift and offset now to match this behemoth. I am beyond thrilled about it tho. It does weigh in at around 300 pds. It will however have more than a chance at proving itself worthy in the river swamps of the apalachicola and on partially cleared woodland. Especially when I mount a winch to the designed winch plate.

2) oem right run board *check* hardware was replaced and the board it myself was salvageable. I MAY take them off at some point and sell them. I would replace with stirrup style ones or none at all. If I don't sell them and decide to keep them on I will paint them black. I will add, for me and my situation, they don't really serve much of a purpose. They're mounted to close to the truck to really serve as a worth while step. I guess I could get longer brackets? Idk but then that's just something else to get hung up and ripped off.

3) front drive shaft u-joint *check* it almost,"BLAM! Sparks down the road" status. Caught it just in time.
3a) Also had the rear checked/re-lubed and was told it was ok. When I asked about the "HUM" I was told that all Nissan titans had that and it wasn't fixable. Per here on TT i was told that is not the case and to check spider gears etc. I have not done this yet.

4) fan clutch and fan- per my mechanic the fan clutch was spinning freely as the fan blade itself had cracks/was not in working order. I ordered the clutch from Courtesy Parts and the fan itself from Nordstroms Auto Inc. out of South Dakota via Ebay. Yesterday I attempted to replace these and the serpentine belt (#5 waiting to be checked). When I went to take off the skid plate I noticed 2 things.
A) the mounting bolts were hex,not metric or sae. "Whoopeee", I exclaimed as I mumbled expletive upon expletive looking for hex set THAT IS NEVER IN THE SAME PLACE AS BEFORE! #MurphyStrikesAgain
B)the right side was sagging bc it was missing a mounting bolt (I blame super lube and myself for never changing it myself on the regular)
C) I was also unable to remove it as the 2 left side bolts were COMPLETELY stripped. Only ways I can think to getting them off are either hammering in a larger wrench or break out the recip saw with the metal blade.

I was able to get my arm wedged in enough to dismount bottom shroud. Once back up top I had to place a seat cushion atop the ranch hand and hood and sit virtually in it bc of the bumper guard sticking out so far and the inability to stand up close to the hood. #BitterSweet
I was able to remove three nuts.it was a pain as the clutch would turn so I had to brace it carefully with a pair of pliers. I got to the 4th and my first turn just went around it like butter. It was stripped completely as well (punches pump house and yells why me to the auto gods). Any advice on this?
I'm assuming when my pops had it and took it to the dealer somewhere within the first 2 years of owning it for the fan being so loud they replaced it or did some kind of work that I'm to tired to even think or care about atm. I guess it got stripped then or by my mechanic somehow idk. All I know is that now I'm stuck. It's sitting under the carport. I also didn't realize I was going to get antifreeze everywhere. I unfastened two different hoses and it went everywhere. Which leads me to drainage the radiator. Can I wash my engine bay out somehow now? I've needed to clean under there forever but I didn't know if that was a no no bc of electrical and such. Also not to do it hot bc I've heard it could crack the block???

5) serpentine belt

6) flush/drain radiator

7) level or lift- was looking at 5100's but was told by Chaz that I had to have cool overs bc spindles designs won't work on a 4wd. So now bc of money that mod is farther out than would like. Could I just put spacers on the fron? Is this info correct about 4wd's and 5100's being a spindle? I've googled everything but an wanting first hand experience.

8) head unit and the cheapest audiophile set up I can buy.

9) preventive e-brake replacement

10) brakes and possibly rotors. I can't recall off hand but I've seen two different posts on here (that I might have screen shot) that had rotor pad combos that worked particularly well for those individuals. If I can find it I'll place the link to that sub post here.

11) differential vent mod

12) fix cruise control

13) check transfer case and service/re-lube it

14) replace all hose mounts to something other than those ****ty oem wings.

15) stock up on hoses for future preventive and necessary replacements

16) light bar on ranch hand and top of truck above windshield

17) wheels and tires- never been a fan of the BFG's that are on it.

That's it for now,I'm to frustrated to remember them all but 17's a good start lololol
 

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billy 5100's are struts that your coil splrings mount over, the spindle is a totally different part. You could also go with spacers, your call.

If you gushed your radiator dry, it's flushed.

Lube shops WILL always (IME) destroy your skid-plate bolts (As well as bow the inner wall of the air-box out so it doesn't close properly...even after you tell them several times you have a K&N you take care of yourself and not to touch the damn thing...Good thing I'm experienced with my heat-gun)

You'll likely have to drill out, and use extractors on the stripped alan bolts, as for the one on the fan clutch.. you might try pulling on it with some needle-nose and turning it to the left at the same time, to see if it can catch a thread...but I foresee a tight quarters 90 degree drill and a set of thread taps in your future.

Washing your engine bay out with all purpose cleaner and med to low pressure will hurt nothing, as long as you make sure the motor is cooled to ambient temps before spraying it, you aren't risking cracking or warping anything. Just don't flood out the fuse and IDPM boxes. As an extra precaution, (One' I've never taken) you can also disconnect your battery before the engine wash, and not hook it back up until all is dry. Don't use a heavy duty engine degreaser spray, there's too much plastic under the hood that will suffer if you do. 409 or the equivalent will do fine. My greasy-oily part cleaner of choice is awesome orange from the dollar store, undiluted. Due to both price and function.

T-case drain and fill is easy with a bottle pump.

Do what you will with light bars, and I'm all for one on the bumper, but IMO the 'bro-brow' is the worst place to mount one, particularly with a white hood perfect for the glare to offset any visibility gains, and it will turn even a light fog into a visually impenetrable wall.
 

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Read the writeup on swapping the OEM struts for 5100's. Fairly easy task (hey I did it myself, can't be that hard) 5100 struts on mid setting will give you 1" up front, pair that with a 2" spacer and some aftermarket Upper Control arms (Rough Country or Dirt King) and your set, swap out the rear OEM's for some 5100 shocks and a 1" (or 1.5") and you will be sitting very close to level and gain a little bit of height
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thx for taking the time to read all that guys. I appreciate your 2 cents all the time.

Kaipo13 these weren't really in any particular order yes I did accomplish #6 kind of as I took off that hose but it wasn't completely. I'm gonna go ahead and do that while working on this clutch nut. Also,I agree, 11 & 13 are getting bumped up. Taking care of all things fluid/line related then getting to sparkys and such.

I don't know what Chaz was talking about. I hope he stumbles upon this to explain what he meant to u guys. Fish I'm with u on that write up,that exact write up is what made my brows do a Dwayne The Rock Johnson when I read chaz' response to me.


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I've bought lots of stuff from Chas over the years, nothing against him, but he is a parts guy. Mike who used to work with him at Tap, is also a Titan owner, so not sure Chas knows as much about the Titan as Mike does. Mike is now with Off Road Warehouse and is still a vendor on here, so my business has moved to ORW in the future
 
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I am trying to install 5100's on my Titian. However, when I removed the old shock and tried to install the 5100's it seems I don't have enough clearance. Do I need to have both sides jacked up in order to get enough sag to install the 5100s?
 

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Nope, loosen the spindle nut (on the upper control arm ball joint until it is at the bottom of the bolt, hit the knuckle of the spindle a couple times with a hammer and it will drop down to the nut, that should give you enough room to pop the strut in. look at photo 4 http://s3.amazonaws.com/roughcountry/install/9286200.pdf
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Ok so after another shot of WD and taking a vice grip to it that sumbich came off. Now I'm gonna change the ole serp while I got wiggle room. Also gonna completely drain the radiator. May go ahead and flush it. Can't find my dam oil drain pan so I'm taking the sawzaw to an old gas tank and cuttin er sideways. If alls well from here on out I'll be done by midnight. I'm just takin my sweet little evan green label time.


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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Also,this bad boy is Dirty!

And I think my life long mechanic was trying to get over on me on this one. My fan blades seem fine to me. Not chipped or anything. The one I bought is used but looks pretty good.




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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
Correction: I said "stripped" when explaining skid plate and clutch nut. My apologies, I meant to say "rounded". The threading was fine. Where the hex tool would fit,on the skid plate bolts, was rounded out completely. The nut for the clutch was as well. I should also add that the horrible flex had ratchet wrenches I picked up from harbor freight were 12 sided.


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always six if available,.. glad it saved some blood, sweat, and bad words. I got that the bolt on the skid was just rounded, but I thought the clutch bolt you were talking about was stripped. even a snapped bolt is better than stripped. Alan bolts rounding is a PITA too. Keep on keepin on man, you're making decent progress.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Yeah all pieces in question were rounded. I have an issue now where the clutch has no more play than the new one. Even turned the springs on the front side with needle nose pliers with ease just like the new one?


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