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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Anyone know the torque spec for the the upper ball joint castle nut? Installing the Rough Country upper control arms and installed the castle nut but it is extremely loose, like it still moves around. Cant be right! If I continue to tighten it to where it's snug like the oem it's going to be a good distance from where the cotter pin hole is. This is even with the spacer that they provided. Those with these arms...how much did you torque them down?
 

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the cotter pin is just a saftey to keep the bolt on incase it comes loose till you notice the noise more or less. you defiantly do not want it loose at all. snug it up
 

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in most cases the cotter pin should go through the slots in the castle nut. it`s been that way for years.
I have the same thing with my RC UCA`s. and I wasn`t impressed with that either and the fact that their advertisement is for Ball joints with zerk fittings, and mine came without. I contacted them and they said they switched to a different ball joint.

now you could also apply some RED loctite and torque to spec, then install the cotter pin where it may be. or find the correct thickness 12mm-1/2 hardened washer and add until you are good with it.

but as Paskell mentioned, its ok to torque it to spec and just insert the CP...
just check the torque after you put some miles on it. and did you remove the nubs on the frame mounts before you installed the Arms?

funny how the tie rod ends don`t have any slot and the cotter pin is above the nut...
 

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i know my stock arms did not have the pin go through the nut. nor do my DK uppers. the pin isnt even touching the bolt
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I've got a clunk now sometimes when turning or hitting speed bumps. Checked to ensure everything was tight. Going to disconnect sway links and start there? Anyone experience this with this kit? I never had any clunk with the smaller leveling spacer.
 

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make sure your endlinks are tight. myn seemed tight and still made noise.
 
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