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I'm going to look at a used 2006 Titan SE Crew Cab 4x4 at a Ford dealer this week. It has 116,000 miles and only one owner. The listing says it has the 2.94 axle ratio so I'm assuming it doesn't have the tow package, but I'm having them check the axle label itself since I've read on this forum the door label isn't always accurate. Their initial price is $13,500, but I haven't haggled yet.

I'm tempted to take it to a nearby Nissan dealer to get it checked out, but is there anything I should be on the lookout for or ask about? And assuming the truck is in good condition (it should be since the dealer is reconditioning it and selling it themselves and not wholesaling it out to a used car lot), I'd like to get the price down below $12K. Is that reasonable? I realize there are a lot of factors that go into price, but any insight you experts have would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance.
 

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Yes, that's reasonable. Look for axle seal leaks, exhaust manifold leaks (cracks), leaking power steering/transmission hoses. If you can take it to a Nissan dealer, you can have them check for cracked exhaust manifolds, which is an involved & expensive repair.
 

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RE: big tow package on a 2006, visual cues:

BIG tow =
- transmission temp gauge in cluster
- extendable mirrors

6500# non-big tow vs. 9200ish# for big tow.
 
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After my original post, I realized that my question had been mostly answered in other posts (thanks for not telling me to use the search function!). But I didn't run across this post. That is a fantastic resource! One follow up question. Is there any way to tell if the previous owner drove a bunch of miles with cracked manifolds and if the engine is a ticking time bomb because of it?
 

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I dont think there is anyway to tell 100% how long they drove with them cracked short of cats failing, plugs showing it running super rich or something. IF they are cracked I would do my damnedest to get them to replace them. . many drive with em cracked but its asking for an issue in my opinion. I replaced them myself, it wasn't the end of the world but wasn't a walk in the park either. And unless you find em used "preferably from a newer model because they are reinforced" or live in a state where u can run headers and Uprev, its expensive in either case. I would just crawl under it and check everywhere for leaks. Rear axle seals, rear diff cover, check the axle vent "do the axle vent mod in my opinion if you do purchase it". Check the slip yoke to see if the seal is leaking there and slinging fluid on the under side of the cab. the front diff input seal is prone to leaking as well so check that out. Id check at the oil filter and see it behind it "oil cooler" which is mounted on the block to see if it is leaking.

Check fluids for color/smell. obvious but just saying.

2.94 is non big tow but you can tell if it is big tow generally by having the large mirrors and dead give away is the trans temp gauge in the cluster.

Also since its an 06 and close in miles to mine I would be sure turn the key to on and individually turn the temp knob and the knob that controls where the air blows from back and forth letting it fully cycle a few times back and forth. I have already replaced one actuator and now another needs to be done. They will click fairly loud if they are bad. . not the end of the world but if you find it and they fix it much easier for you and its free.

As stated in a prior reply, I'd check the trans lines and I'd route them out of the radiator into an external cooler and replace all lines with double clamps to avoid a milkshake in the transmission or a line blowout as many have experienced. Power steering lines like to leak on these also. some use stop leak with success, others replace the lines.

I'd also pay attention to the trans mount and if ripped I would replace with the frontier mount or if they'll do it for you I'd take stock til it ripped again.


Sorry that got really long winded but just things I have either come across or read a ton on. They may not replace much or anything but at least you will know what you're buying! Good luck with your purchase
 

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I just sold my 2005 SE 4x4 crew cab with 61,000 miles with long tubes, Cajun b-pipes, JBA cat back and UpRev for $14k. You should definitely be able to do much better than $13.5k on that truck.

Just look out for what others have mentioned. Try to take it up a hill on a test drive and get it under load, then listen for a "ticking" coming from the engine bay. That's a good indicator for cracked manifolds. A lot of times you won't hear it when driving on normal flat roads, especially after it warms up. Good luck in your search!
 

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After my original post, I realized that my question had been mostly answered in other posts (thanks for not telling me to use the search function!). But I didn't run across this post. That is a fantastic resource! One follow up question. Is there any way to tell if the previous owner drove a bunch of miles with cracked manifolds and if the engine is a ticking time bomb because of it?
Not likely. The danger is that long term the cats get damaged from the cracked manifold, and if it starts falling apart and you get the right backpressure situation, debris is sucked back into the engine through the exhaust valves, scoring the cylinders and bearings and thus requiring a rebuild. In all the years I've been on here, I might have heard of one time this happened, but this is purely from memory. It's really a perfect storm type event but is possible.

Bottom line is a cracked manifold wouldn't stop me from buying the truck, but I would fix them if I bought one with cracks. Both of mine cracked on my truck, and one of them was probably cracked for 5-6k miles before I got it fixed, and that was about 65k miles ago and everything's going strong still.
 

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Bottom line is a cracked manifold wouldn't stop me from buying the truck, but I would fix them if I bought one with cracks. Both of mine cracked on my truck, and one of them was probably cracked for 5-6k miles before I got it fixed, and that was about 65k miles ago and everything's going strong still.
Well said.
 
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