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Hello. I have a 2004 Nissan Titan, King Cab, SE, 4wd, tow package. It's nothing but problem after problem, and I'm hoping someone can help me. I bought this truck in April last year.
In about July 2009, my axle vent rusted over, oil was forced out the seals, the parking brake shoes seperated, and chunks of metal whirled around inside the brake drum. The abs wheel sensor broke off one side, along with two teeth on the ring. I replaced the sensor, and everything seemed fine for a while, so I don't think the two missing teeth have anything to do with the problem.
In about September 2009, my tailpipe broke off at the joint behind the muffler. I completely removed the tailpipe, I drove like this for about a year, with no problems. Finally, in July 2010, the stock muffler was rusted through, so I put an Edelbrock muffler on, with the stock tailpipe. I thought this would be a simple a muffler change. I start the truck, and within a couple minutes I get a code, #0183, fuel tank temperature sensor circuit high input. I don't have anywhere to go that day, so I shut it off and leave it. It's a bright, hot, sunny day.
The next day, the ses light is still on. I drive about halfway out my driveway, my slip light, and my vdc off light both turn on. The slip light isn't flashing like it does when a tire slips, it's on steady. The truck is still running, but the gas pedal doesn't rev the engine up. I try starting it a bunch of times, same thing over and over, it won't rev up but will run. I get frustrated and leave it for the next day. It's a bright, hot, sunny day.
The next morning I try to start my truck, it cranks like normal, fires up like normal, then dies instantly as if I had shut the key off. I go through this performance a bunch of times, it dies every time. I try resetting the ecm, I try disconnecting the battery, it keeps dying, I get frustrated and leave it. Later that day, I go start it, and it runs completely normal, except for the ses light. It's a bright, hot, sunny day, again.
It seems fine after that for weeks, no vdc off lights or slip lights coming on. Then, one day in August 2010, in a heavy rain, I'm driving home from work. I'm almost home, the vdc off light turns on, the slip light turns on, I have no throttle repsonse, but the truck is still running. I drive home at a snail's pace, blushing as I get passed by mennonite buggies. When I get home, I leave the truck for a day or so, then the next time I start it, it seems fine.
Everything is fine for a while, I still have code #0183, but other than that, things are good. Then in early September, I get in my truck at work, after a day of heavy rain, and I start my truck, but the vdc off light and the slip light are both on. The engine has no throttle repsonse. I get a ride home with someone else, then later that evening, I go to town, and the truck starts up and runs fine all the way home.
I research things on the internet, and I think it must be my IPDM. I replace that with a new one, and I think that will solve all my problems. (Hopefully I can get a refund now that it is a recall.) So in late September, my mom, dad and I are going to go on vacation together. I've got my truck fixed now, it should be fine, right? Well, apart from the radiator that is split open on the bottom and getting worse every day. So we get about eight hours from home. I'm driving in a heavy rain, and sure enough, the silly lights on the dash come on, and I have no throttle response. (A big thanks goes out to Nissan for ruining my vacation!) I get home eventually, and I just let my truck sit on the lawn for a week or so, in disgust at it's shoddy engineering. The next time I try to start it, everything seems ok.
Then finally, last Wednesday, I'm driving to work. It's raining hard, and I get part way there. The silly lights come on, and my overpriced hunk of tin won't rev up.
So my truck is sitting on my lawn buried in snow right now. It won't run. It fires, but dies. I've tried switching relays on the new IPDM. I've cleaned the ecm ground underneath the battery. I've reset the ecm a dozen times. I'm getting codes #0183, #0550 power steering pressure sensore circuit, #0113 intake air temperature sensor circuit high input, #0507 idle speed control system RPM higher than expected, and the scariest, #0605 engine control module. (The manual says if the ecm calculation is malfunctioning, the throttle valve will be maintained at a fixed opening...)
So do I really need a new ecm? Why did it fail? Will it fail again? Why does it always seem to fix itself with time? Am I causing problems with a four gauge amplifier wire going through a fuse block bolted to the ipdm cover; it's unhooked now, but maybe I already damaged something with that? Is there something the Nissan dealer can do with their fancy computer that would change things? Why does it always happen in the rain, except for the first time? Any thoughts?
 
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Nice 1st post!...
 
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Thanks, but it's not really a nice post at all, it's a sad post. I would have liked to come on here to say, "My Titan is so reliable, it's an awesome truck, so great on gas too." This is the fifth Nissan I've owned, and probably the last. I miss my old 89 Mercury, it cost me $500, it had 250,000+km, it started every time I turned the key, and it always got me where I needed to go. My titan costs me almost $500 a month, it's constantly leaving me stranded, it's constantly breaking down, it only has 135,000km, and I bet it will be completly toast before it's even paid for. There was a time when I wouldn't recommend anything but a Nissan to anybody, but now I don't recommend Nissan at all.
 

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Hello. I have a 2004 Nissan Titan, King Cab, SE, 4wd, tow package. It's nothing but problem after problem, and I'm hoping someone can help me. I bought this truck in April last year.
In about July 2009, my axle vent rusted over, oil was forced out the seals, the parking brake shoes seperated, and chunks of metal whirled around inside the brake drum. The abs wheel sensor broke off one side, along with two teeth on the ring. I replaced the sensor, and everything seemed fine for a while, so I don't think the two missing teeth have anything to do with the problem.
In about September 2009, my tailpipe broke off at the joint behind the muffler. I completely removed the tailpipe, I drove like this for about a year, with no problems. Finally, in July 2010, the stock muffler was rusted through, so I put an Edelbrock muffler on, with the stock tailpipe. I thought this would be a simple a muffler change. I start the truck, and within a couple minutes I get a code, #0183, fuel tank temperature sensor circuit high input. I don't have anywhere to go that day, so I shut it off and leave it. It's a bright, hot, sunny day.
The next day, the ses light is still on. I drive about halfway out my driveway, my slip light, and my vdc off light both turn on. The slip light isn't flashing like it does when a tire slips, it's on steady. The truck is still running, but the gas pedal doesn't rev the engine up. I try starting it a bunch of times, same thing over and over, it won't rev up but will run. I get frustrated and leave it for the next day. It's a bright, hot, sunny day.
The next morning I try to start my truck, it cranks like normal, fires up like normal, then dies instantly as if I had shut the key off. I go through this performance a bunch of times, it dies every time. I try resetting the ecm, I try disconnecting the battery, it keeps dying, I get frustrated and leave it. Later that day, I go start it, and it runs completely normal, except for the ses light. It's a bright, hot, sunny day, again.
It seems fine after that for weeks, no vdc off lights or slip lights coming on. Then, one day in August 2010, in a heavy rain, I'm driving home from work. I'm almost home, the vdc off light turns on, the slip light turns on, I have no throttle repsonse, but the truck is still running. I drive home at a snail's pace, blushing as I get passed by mennonite buggies. When I get home, I leave the truck for a day or so, then the next time I start it, it seems fine.
Everything is fine for a while, I still have code #0183, but other than that, things are good. Then in early September, I get in my truck at work, after a day of heavy rain, and I start my truck, but the vdc off light and the slip light are both on. The engine has no throttle repsonse. I get a ride home with someone else, then later that evening, I go to town, and the truck starts up and runs fine all the way home.
I research things on the internet, and I think it must be my IPDM. I replace that with a new one, and I think that will solve all my problems. (Hopefully I can get a refund now that it is a recall.) So in late September, my mom, dad and I are going to go on vacation together. I've got my truck fixed now, it should be fine, right? Well, apart from the radiator that is split open on the bottom and getting worse every day. So we get about eight hours from home. I'm driving in a heavy rain, and sure enough, the silly lights on the dash come on, and I have no throttle response. (A big thanks goes out to Nissan for ruining my vacation!) I get home eventually, and I just let my truck sit on the lawn for a week or so, in disgust at it's shoddy engineering. The next time I try to start it, everything seems ok.
Then finally, last Wednesday, I'm driving to work. It's raining hard, and I get part way there. The silly lights come on, and my overpriced hunk of tin won't rev up.
So my truck is sitting on my lawn buried in snow right now. It won't run. It fires, but dies. I've tried switching relays on the new IPDM. I've cleaned the ecm ground underneath the battery. I've reset the ecm a dozen times. I'm getting codes #0183, #0550 power steering pressure sensore circuit, #0113 intake air temperature sensor circuit high input, #0507 idle speed control system RPM higher than expected, and the scariest, #0605 engine control module. (The manual says if the ecm calculation is malfunctioning, the throttle valve will be maintained at a fixed opening...)
So do I really need a new ecm? Why did it fail? Will it fail again? Why does it always seem to fix itself with time? Am I causing problems with a four gauge amplifier wire going through a fuse block bolted to the ipdm cover; it's unhooked now, but maybe I already damaged something with that? Is there something the Nissan dealer can do with their fancy computer that would change things? Why does it always happen in the rain, except for the first time? Any thoughts?
You fail tomention that if, after all these problems, you ever took it to a Nissan dealership or a mechanic who actually knew what they were doing to diagnose the actual problem instead of guessing and replacing parts. Could be that you replaced all those parts for nothing. seems like your truck has a problem in the rain which makes me think that water could be getting into something and shorting it out. Hence the reason that after a few days, things dry out and it works again. My suggestion is to take it to someone who knows what they are doing.
 

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Hello. I have a 2004 Nissan Titan, King Cab, SE, 4wd, tow package. It's nothing but problem after problem, and I'm hoping someone can help me. I bought this truck in April last year.

Truck is old, expect maintenance to be high initially, as a normal function of age/mileage.

In about July 2009, my axle vent rusted over, oil was forced out the seals, the parking brake shoes seperated, and chunks of metal whirled around inside the brake drum. The abs wheel sensor broke off one side, along with two teeth on the ring. I replaced the sensor, and everything seemed fine for a while, so I don't think the two missing teeth have anything to do with the problem.

Again, rust and subsequent chain of failures were a function of age....complete repair recommended, i.e. the two missing teeth.

In about September 2009, my tailpipe broke off at the joint behind the muffler. I completely removed the tailpipe, I drove like this for about a year, with no problems. Finally, in July 2010, the stock muffler was rusted through, so I put an Edelbrock muffler on, with the stock tailpipe. I thought this would be a simple a muffler change. I start the truck, and within a couple minutes I get a code, #0183, fuel tank temperature sensor circuit high input. I don't have anywhere to go that day, so I shut it off and leave it. It's a bright, hot, sunny day.

Failure to do proper repair; and in a timely manner, allows heat to be directed to wire harnesses and other parts possible. Fumes may enter cab easier too. I would never recommend allowing exhaust to exit at the muffler. Several have had wire harness melt near rear axle due to exhaust system failure. Multiple codes resulted. Particularly relating to ABS, Cruise Control type issues

The next day, the ses light is still on. I drive about halfway out my driveway, my slip light, and my vdc off light both turn on. The slip light isn't flashing like it does when a tire slips, it's on steady. The truck is still running, but the gas pedal doesn't rev the engine up. I try starting it a bunch of times, same thing over and over, it won't rev up but will run. I get frustrated and leave it for the next day. It's a bright, hot, sunny day.
The next morning I try to start my truck, it cranks like normal, fires up like normal, then dies instantly as if I had shut the key off. I go through this performance a bunch of times, it dies every time. I try resetting the ecm, I try disconnecting the battery, it keeps dying, I get frustrated and leave it. Later that day, I go start it, and it runs completely normal, except for the ses light. It's a bright, hot, sunny day, again.
It seems fine after that for weeks, no vdc off lights or slip lights coming on. Then, one day in August 2010, in a heavy rain, I'm driving home from work. I'm almost home, the vdc off light turns on, the slip light turns on, I have no throttle repsonse, but the truck is still running. I drive home at a snail's pace, blushing as I get passed by mennonite buggies. When I get home, I leave the truck for a day or so, then the next time I start it, it seems fine.

I would not be surprised to have recurring issues related to wheel speed controls, when system was apparently not repaired thoroughly.
Computer will put engine in Limp Mode to help avoid damage. Seek Professional Mechanic immediately.


Everything is fine for a while, I still have code #0183, but other than that, things are good. Then in early September, I get in my truck at work, after a day of heavy rain, and I start my truck, but the vdc off light and the slip light are both on. The engine has no throttle repsonse. I get a ride home with someone else, then later that evening, I go to town, and the truck starts up and runs fine all the way home.
I research things on the internet, and I think it must be my IPDM. I replace that with a new one, and I think that will solve all my problems. (Hopefully I can get a refund now that it is a recall.) So in late September, my mom, dad and I are going to go on vacation together. I've got my truck fixed now, it should be fine, right? Well, apart from the radiator that is split open on the bottom and getting worse every day. So we get about eight hours from home. I'm driving in a heavy rain, and sure enough, the silly lights on the dash come on, and I have no throttle response. (A big thanks goes out to Nissan for ruining my vacation!) I get home eventually, and I just let my truck sit on the lawn for a week or so, in disgust at it's shoddy engineering. The next time I try to start it, everything seems ok.

Yes, a refund is possible for the IPDM. I would recommend you consult (put in at dealer) Nissan for evaluation of your concerns. A Professional Mechanic can likely diagnose and correct these issues easily.

Then finally, last Wednesday, I'm driving to work. It's raining hard, and I get part way there. The silly lights come on, and my overpriced hunk of tin won't rev up.
So my truck is sitting on my lawn buried in snow right now. It won't run. It fires, but dies. I've tried switching relays on the new IPDM. I've cleaned the ecm ground underneath the battery. I've reset the ecm a dozen times. I'm getting codes #0183, #0550 power steering pressure sensore circuit, #0113 intake air temperature sensor circuit high input, #0507 idle speed control system RPM higher than expected, and the scariest, #0605 engine control module. (The manual says if the ecm calculation is malfunctioning, the throttle valve will be maintained at a fixed opening...)
So do I really need a new ecm? Why did it fail? Will it fail again? Why does it always seem to fix itself with time? Am I causing problems with a four gauge amplifier wire going through a fuse block bolted to the ipdm cover; it's unhooked now, but maybe I already damaged something with that? Is there something the Nissan dealer can do with their fancy computer that would change things? Why does it always happen in the rain, except for the first time? Any thoughts?
There could be exposed wires due to melting from exhaust system leak of past couple years. You have possibly allowed moisture into the IPDM Box due to penetrating for the Amplifier Wiring. I would have avoided breaching that in such a manner. A direct connection closer to the Battery would have been safer, electrically better... Intermittent problems are common on all vehicles, due to the complexity.

Nothing in your post suggest poor engineering, but I do strongly suspect less than thorough repairs, and an avoidance of Professional Mechanic's service. A "fancy computer" will not solve mechanical issues on it's own, it is only a diagnostic tool. Your problems may be relatively minor, if properly addressed. See your Nissan Dealer for the solution. DIY is not always the best solution.


BTW, My Titan is so reliable, it's an awesome truck, so great on gas too. Considering the power it has, I am well pleased. 14/18 MPG, just as EPA rated it, even though highly modified. My outright failures Parts cost has been less than $90 in 75K Miles, and that was because of Mods I did. All other cost have been due to "Normal Maintenance" Yeah, I'm a happy camper.
 
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so great on gas too
No offence, but i'm just trying to make sense of this all...

You knew you were buying a full size truck right? With a V8?

My titan costs me almost $500 a month
You should take into fact the cost of gas & maintenance before purchasing a vehicle. Be sure you can afford it...

I've had a few hiccup's w/ my Titan, which is normal for any vehicle. Your's is an '04 w/ 100K+ on the clock. Thing's happen, thing's wear out & need replaced. This is normal...

I don't know what your specific problem is or what other problem's you had w/ previous vehicles, but you blame everything on Nissan is just ignorant.
 

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I have an easier problem. The SES light came on and I just had the second oil change done. Its a completely stock 2010 Titan LE. Has the little message thing in the middle of the gauge cluster that tells you plain as day that maintenance is due. I'm assuming that the SES light coming on is just because the dealership didn't reset it after the maintenance they just did. This is the first time I have seen it on. There are no changes in performance or MPGs as well. Can I just reset the SES Light?
 

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Yeah, I'm poor, I know that, I don't have a half a grand to throw at the dealer every time I blow a fuse. So, hypothetically, let's pretend I spend $300 dollars to tow my Titan to the dealer. They're going to charge me ~$100 to hook their computer up. They'll get code 605, same as I did. They'll go through the diagnostic procedure in the same manual that I have. Then they will replace my ecm, for ~$700, at ~$80/hour. They'll also tell me I need $1600 of balljoints and control arms, which I know I don't. So I'll leave after paying over $1000, and the problem might not be fixed. Should I really expect anything more from a car dealership?
Shawn, exactly which parts did I guess and replace? The only part I replaced to try to fix this problem was the IPDM, and even though it should never need replaced, it wasn't a total waste of money, it fixed my problem of having no low beams. It was nice to finally not have to shut my headlights off every time I met a car on the highway.
TitanBlue, about the exhaust system, I have to wonder why it was fine for a year without a tailpipe, then less than two minutes after I put the tailpipe back in the exact same location as stock, then it causes problems? The holes in the IPDM cover for my fuse block is a good guess, but I had problems before I installed it. I know a "fancy computer" won't solve mechanical issues, which is fine; I'm having electrical issues, and maybe they can reprogram my ecm or something similar? That's nice that your Titan is what you say it is, maybe mine is just a lemon.
Weasel, do you think I went to the car dealership, looking to buy a VW, and while I was banging my arm against my chest and drooling, I confused a Titan with a little car? Of course I knew I was buying a fullsize pickup, with a V8. Thanks for the financial advice, and thanks for assuming I'm an idiot. My truck is piece of junk, and yes, I can blame it on Nissan, they built it. If someone said everything you said to me in person, then I might punch that person in their mouth.
FrenchFrog, stay out of my thread with your off topic question.
I was actually excited to get an email saying there are new posts in my thread, I came on here hoping I might be able to fix my truck and not have to hitchhike to work tomorrow, and I get to read a bunch of words criticizing my financial situation, and people assuming I must have a mental deficiency because I'm poor.
 

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Hi Matt.

Please don't this in any way other then a honest positive question, however, is it possible there is an electrical issue due to a problem with your stereo installation or a component within the stereo?

The reason I ask is that my son had similar ECU issues with this Dodge Stealth, some months after he installed a killer stereo system. As it turns out, nasty little electrical spikes from a couple mismatched amps and/or capacitors caused the ECU to loose its mind with embarrassing regularity.

Just a thought from past experience for your consideration.

Rick

BTW my son sold all the Stereo parts and then Stealth, then got a less killer stereo in a very clean Dodge Hemi. Its reliable, stereo sounds nice, however, he wants to borrow the Titan every chance he can get. :)
 

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My truck has done all the same things. I love the truck when it's right. When it's wrong I think it's a piece of Shat. Look over the rear right axle. The wiring harness there may be melted together causing all these problems. I don't know why mine melted. I did have the broken exhaust thing but my buddies wires melted too with no broken exhaust. I agree ****ty engineering. To many people having same problems and Nissan not owning them. When I do get somehting new it will not be a NISSAn.
 

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Thought about your problem, read the entire thread. Your third post of your entire TT membership makes most think "WHY HELP THIS A**h*** OUT".


Then I tought to myself. The kid is frustrated so here are my thoughts to your questions.

1. The lack of a tailpipe melted the wire loom arround the wire harness by your muffler. and some moisture has entered the harness. Not enough to cause a long term problem as it dries out quickly on "HOT SUNNY DAYS".....your words.

2. The shop that welded on the new muffler used a welder and didnt shield the remaining harness from sparks and slag that flew/fell on your harness melting the insulation from the wire conductors. Causing more chaos in your already taxed electrical system. From MONSTER stereo and hole in IPDM cover.

3. If you can, get under the truck and look at the harness arround the muffler area. Look for melted and or cracked insulation. Both can lead to rust causing the electrical signal to be degraded to a point of resistance that the computer cannot read, causing the "SAFE MODE" type ecm problems with the trottle.

4. Dont be a blatent D***. bashing peeps wont get you far here.

Hope this helps
 

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Thought about your problem, read the entire thread. Your third post of your entire TT membership makes most think "WHY HELP THIS A**h*** OUT".


Then I tought to myself. The kid is frustrated so here are my thoughts to your questions.

1. The lack of a tailpipe melted the wire loom arround the wire harness by your muffler. and some moisture has entered the harness. Not enough to cause a long term problem as it dries out quickly on "HOT SUNNY DAYS".....your words.

Possibly, except everything worked 100% until two seconds after I started it with the new muffler.

2. The shop that welded on the new muffler used a welder and didnt shield the remaining harness from sparks and slag that flew/fell on your harness melting the insulation from the wire conductors. Causing more chaos in your already taxed electrical system. From MONSTER stereo and hole in IPDM cover.

I clamped the muffler on, it isn't welded. There are no open holes in the IPDM cover, they were sealed with silicone.

3. If you can, get under the truck and look at the harness arround the muffler area. Look for melted and or cracked insulation. Both can lead to rust causing the electrical signal to be degraded to a point of resistance that the computer cannot read, causing the "SAFE MODE" type ecm problems with the trottle.

I keep loooking, but I havn't found any bad wires yet.

4. Dont be a blatent D***. bashing peeps wont get you far here.

My desire to fix my truck is much greater than my desire to use tact when people tell me things that aren't true.

Hope this helps

So I got it towed to an auto mechanic in Owen Sound, about a $100 tow. They scratch their heads, and they tow it to a Nissan dealer. The Nissan dealer does the ECU relay recall. It starts and runs, they tell me everything is fine. I don't understand this because I already have the updated IPDM, AND I tried personally swapping the ECM relay with no luck. I go on their word that it is fixed, so I head north into God's country for a vacation. About 1000km from home, it breaks down again, starts but won't rev up. I'm a long way from any town and no cell phone service, so I sleep in my truck. Luckily it ran so I had heat and didn't freeze to death. I wake up in the morning, drive for about five hours at 10km/h to the closest town. After about four hours of relay swapping, cursing, battery disconnecting, etc.., etc.. it finally starts and revs up. I'm hoping to drive the ~500km to the closest Nissan dealer for them to look at it. I get to the dealer in Thunder Bay, they gave me a $50 bill and told me they couldn't replicate the problem. (To Nissan, "couldn't replicate the problem" means "we don't know what to do") (On an off note, I was planning to get a motel room in Thunder Bay to sleep on New Year's Eve, but nobody will let me stay because I don't have a credit card and didn't have a $500 deposit, so I slept in my truck in a Metro parking lot, Happy New Years.) So I keep driving, and I'm heading home, of course it stops revving up again. I'm ~1400km from home, the closest dealer is, ~250km from me, roadside assistance won't help because I'm too far from anything, and it's the first day of a long weekend. I spend ~$200 for four nights in a motel room in a small Northern town, before I can finally find someone to do anything. $1700 to get it towed home, and once again, it's sitting on my lawn, and now it won't even start, it just dies right away. One ex-Nissan dealership, and two Nissan dealerships later, and nobody knows what to do. It's sad when I personally know more about this truck than any Nissan employee that I have ever met in my life. And yes, this truck is a heap of junk. Maybe there are wires melted somewhere, but I've looked for hourse and not found any, and I'm sick of crawling around in the snow to try and fix a vehicle that shouldn't be broken in the first place.
 

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And I mentioned the fuse block on the IPDM cover because I wondered if it was maybe causing electrical interferance, the same idea as wrapping an A/V cable around a power cord. It seems like everyone jumps to the conclusion the cover is full of holes like a piece of swiss cheese, but it was sealed watertight with silicone where the bolts where. Regardless, I had this problem once before I ever touched the stock sound system, so they can't be related. Anyways, I moved the fuse further from the IPDM and ECM, just in case.
 

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I have an easier problem. The SES light came on and I just had the second oil change done. Its a completely stock 2010 Titan LE. Has the little message thing in the middle of the gauge cluster that tells you plain as day that maintenance is due. I'm assuming that the SES light coming on is just because the dealership didn't reset it after the maintenance they just did. This is the first time I have seen it on. There are no changes in performance or MPGs as well. Can I just reset the SES Light?
Check your gas cap...???? Happened to me, tightened it and light went out after bout 30miles

As far as your maintenace light you can adjust it to your own settings its pretty cool just takes time.
 

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Check your gas cap...???? Happened to me, tightened it and light went out after bout 30miles

As far as your maintenace light you can adjust it to your own settings its pretty cool just takes time.[/QUOTE

If you don't have something to say regarding my thread, then don't post in my thread.
I don't need to "adjust" my "maintenace light". I don't even know what it means to adjust a maintainance light.
 

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Check your gas cap...???? Happened to me, tightened it and light went out after bout 30miles

As far as your maintenace light you can adjust it to your own settings its pretty cool just takes time.[/QUOTE

If you don't have something to say regarding my thread, then don't post in my thread.
I don't need to "adjust" my "maintenace light". I don't even know what it means to adjust a maintainance light.
Just trying to help somebody else that posted on "your thread" . Your right it does not apply to you.

Good luck!
 

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Maybe I seem like a jerk, but it's aggravating when every nickel I own and every nickel that visa will lend me goes inti this truch which is broken down half the time. $213 every two weeks for a little over three more years, and it will finally be paid off. Thousands of dollars for repairs and it still breaks down constantly. Well at least my monthly insurance payment is down from $480 last year to $140 now. I used to be passionate enough about Nissan to tattoo their logo on my arm haha, but I doubt I'll ever buy one again. :(
 

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Oh, and the 4 wheel drive indicator lamp beside the odometer doesn't light up when I turn the key to on. But yeah, sorry if I seem like a jerk, I really would appreciate some help.
 

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maybe you really should invest in someone with a scan tool to figure out exactly everything that could possibly be wrong with your truck.

Also fix your abs tone wheel, the rear ones are the ones that send the ECM the speed signal so if there are teeth missing off of it it'll create all kinds of weird issues... trust me i know, it'll cause the trans not to shift, the engine to go into limp mode, your 4x4 lights not to work etc etc etc etc etc....
 

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Discussion Starter #20
maybe you really should invest in someone with a scan tool to figure out exactly everything that could possibly be wrong with your truck.

Also fix your abs tone wheel, the rear ones are the ones that send the ECM the speed signal so if there are teeth missing off of it it'll create all kinds of weird issues... trust me i know, it'll cause the trans not to shift, the engine to go into limp mode, your 4x4 lights not to work etc etc etc etc etc....
I've already invested in someone with a scan tool. Two Nissan dealers, and one ex-Nissan dealer, they all know almost nothing, other than "maybe a new ecm for $1100 might fix it." The tone wheel sort of makes sense except I drove for a long time with the two missing teeth before I had a problem. The axle shaft needs to come out of the axle for a proper repair, and that seems like an expensive guess.
And believe me, if I didn't owe the bank money I would have gotten rid of it a long time ago. Up here in Canada you can't sell a vehicle that isn't paid for. Your unedited post "Sell the truck then..." sure is a useless respone. Voluntary repossession is an option, except I might never be able to buy a house if I do that to my credit rating.
 
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