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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello I was asked to start this so that way people can see this swap happening. Yeah its not new to this forum but I have been working on this for awhile. I have been researching this for awhile. Researched and found other peoples mistakes when doing this swap so I will now be able to build a clean swap super quick. (money allowing of course lol)

So far all I have done is the chassis has been fully stripped down and is in the midst of being caged. Got a friend of a friend who will be tigging my cage and chassis reinforcement.

I already have the VK motor and it is stripped down at the momment. I bought this motor for $775 shipped from Bessimer Alabama from Mr. Vidal. Thank you Mr. Vidal for this motor, I really appreciate it.

Ok the backround of the motor. The motor had a blown head gasket. I stripped the motor down and pulled the gaskets out. They were not broken in any way. I then started looking at the valves and piston, as well as spark plugs to see if anything had been cleaned due to the coolant being burned. Again nothing. So I asked around, came to the forum and still no answer. I started to worry and thought the block maybe had a crack in it. So, I investigated and looked at the cylinder walls very carefully. And as expected still no answer to the coolant being burnt, that had not cleaned a cylinder or any of the valves. Again I started to worry. I remember when I drained the oil pan it flowed green for a few seconds then went to a chocolate milk color. I was stumped.

A week later I took the motor to a machine shop since all the possible cause of coolant in the cylinders and coolant in the oil could not be found. I waited about 3 weeks and they called me. Said the block was fine and the cylinder heads were warped .009" and that the gasket would not have sealed. During this time the cylinders were rehoned and the cylinder heads were redecked. This was a huge relief. So now its basically a fresh motor. Ready to be put to the test and track abused.

Engine mounting is already worked out. I made a deal with McKinneyMotorSports for there VK swap mounts for Sr20det mounts for the 350z. My car previously had an SR20det in it. (never fired it up because I got ahold of this Titan motor.)

My chassis I spent a good 6 months cutting drilling and scraping **** out of. All the excess crap Nissan put in the car was removed. All the 350z OEM wiring found its way into the trash. Not putting that garbage in. Nissan uses mass amounts of wiring so I figured I will re-wire this car myself that way the wire is kept to a bare minimum. No joke all the wiring from the Z probably had a wight of atleast 40 lbs. This weight includes all the fuse blocks, control panels, ipdm and ac computer.

So the plan of attack as for now is Im rebuilding the motor with OEM parts. I am putting new crank bearings in and connecting rod bearing. I will also be doing new piston rings and wrist pin clips. The crank will be getting polished as well.

I plan to set it up with twin turbos in the engine bay since my radiator is now going to be moved to the rear of the car. Im thinking 2 gt28 turbos a 8psi. I will be doing more searching of twin turbo setups on these motors, but have little to no luck doing so far.

As for my chassis Im waiting for the caging and bracing to be finished. Then it will get full interior paint.

After the chassis is done then the car will come together very quickly.

This thread will be a slow one since I have to wait for my car to come back before I can get back to work on it.

Here are just a few pics of the project vehicle.

HERE IS MY 2006 350Z WITH 21K MILES. LOADED UP ON THE TRUCK GETTING READY TO LEAVE. IN THIS PHOTO IS WAS HEADED TO ANOTHER SHOP BUT IT WAS REMOVED FROM THAT SHOP AND SENT TO ADDICTION DISORDER AFTER DECIDING TO KEEP THE CAR.



CHRIS LAYING IN THE METAL AFTER TEMPLATES WERE MADE


CHRIS STARTING TO MIG THE REAR STRUT TOWER REINFORCEMENT.


Bored at home so I cleaned all the covers from the motor and threw a few bolt in them to consolidate them in a corner.


THIS IS JUST A FEW PICS. I HAVE TO PULL ALL OTHER PICS OFF OF MY BROKEN COMUTERS HARD DRIVE. THIS WILL BE A SLOW BUILD SO DONT GET TO ANNOYED IF IT LAGS FOR AWHILE. THANK YOU.
 

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You may want to reconsider using OEM pistons and rods. I know the block/crank are stout, but the rods/pistons are the weak link in the VK engine. If you're serious about boosting this bad-boy then you need good internals. 8 psi is a wasted effort on a built car like you're doing imo. Toomnymods uses a single GT4094R with outstanding results.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
You may want to reconsider using OEM pistons and rods. I know the block/crank are stout, but the rods/pistons are the weak link in the VK engine. If you're serious about boosting this bad-boy then you need good internals. 8 psi is a wasted effort on a built car like you're doing imo. Toomnymods uses a single GT4094R with outstanding results.
This is a drift car. I will do other sorts of things with it but its mainly drift. My concern is to get a little extra power after 4000 rpms. So, I want to size the twins to start building boost at 3500 rpms (just before the power starts to flatten out and or drop) and continue well past 4500 rpms. 8psi is what Im really looking for. (8psi on a Titan may be pointless cause Im sure you dont build them to drift lol, but it nmay be a huge + for me.) Not looking for alot of hold the hell on power, just alittle push in the mid to upper rpms.

If I was running a single turbo at 8psi would a precision turbo gt30 or gt35 give me the power range Im looking for?

I really want about 450hp. Not much more than that.
 

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You should be able to make that n/a easily with a custom intake manifold and healthy cams.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
im checking out jwt cams... doesnt say a hp range of increase.. And If Im going to be paying the 1300-1500 that thewy are and its only a 40hp gain then Im going to FI it.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
You may want to reconsider using OEM pistons and rods. I know the block/crank are stout, but the rods/pistons are the weak link in the VK engine. If you're serious about boosting this bad-boy then you need good internals. 8 psi is a wasted effort on a built car like you're doing imo. Toomnymods uses a single GT4094R with outstanding results.
Found out from Toomnymods that his motor is all stock internally besides cams.. This is a great platform from what I see. 411whp @ 4.3 PSI imagine what 8 psi will be.. Im guessing a good 450whp..
 

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Discussion Starter #7
THE DAY MY CAR ARRIVED AS JESSE FLECKS SHOP FOR CAGING AND BRACING. (PRIOR SHOP IT WAS HAT HAD A SODA BLASTER AND IT WAS PARKED NEXT TO. SO THE SODA BLAST WENT ALL OVER MY CAR :( ..... ITS CLEAN NOW.


CAR STRIPPED DOWN READY TO START MAKING A GAME PLAN


HAD MY CYLINDERHEADS SODA BLASTED. (NEVER USE A MEDIA BLAST FOR THIS. SODA BLASTING IS SAFE AND WILLNOT DAMGE COMPONENTS. TO CLEAN IT OUT YOU SIMPLE RINCE IT OFF ITS JUST BAKING SODA. I HAD THIS DONE TO FIND ANY CRACKS IN THE CYLINDER HEADS.


MORE TO COME.
 

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Subscribing!
 

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sweet man that will be a torque monster
 

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Subscribing! Thank's for sharing all this info with us!!! For 1, im really excited to see the end result & 2, learning about everything that go's into doing a VK56 swap is really cool too!!! :)
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Subscribing!
Thank you.

sweet man that will be a torque monster
Hell yeah the stock VQ had torque or so I thought so this should be a moster..

Subscribing! Thank's for sharing all this info with us!!! For 1, im really excited to see the end result & 2, learning about everything that go's into doing a VK56 swap is really cool too!!! :)
FOw those of you who dont know, I am fairly new to these motors. I have only disassembled 1 so Im still learning about them. I originally thought that this motor was going to need extensive internal work for it to become alot more powerful than it is...

I originally wanted 450whp but seeing as a few mods in FI will easily obtain that I have sized my turbo from Precision 6265 Ill be aiming upwards towards 500.. Ill be tuning it with Uprev Tuner series tuning and using 660cc injectors. TOOMNYMODS built 490whp on 109 gas on a boost setting of 7.9 psi.

I will be calling up Cometic for aa custom thicker headgasket to run closer to the 15psi. I hoping that 15 will set me closer to the 500whp on 93 as I still have to research race gas options. But for now an octane boosted 93 will be just fine.
 

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I like seeing people try do new & different thing's with these engines! You never know what is possible until someone tries it. This forum has a wealth of knowledge on the VK56 & some very helpful members! Ive learn so much & met so many great people in the last 3 years ive been a member!
 
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Discussion Starter #14
I will be sending my headgasket to cometic. They will give let me know how much it will cost for headgaskets. They can produce them from .009 -.140"

Tower welded around shock..this is done for shoch regidity..
 

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Defintly going to be keeping an eye on this thread!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Cool! Keeping an eye on your progress.....
Defintly going to be keeping an eye on this thread!
Its going to bea slow build until its finished caging and bracing.. after that I have everything ready to go back in.. I have to rewire, run the brake line,clutch line all off which have been converted over to -3an braided. Then plumb the fuel system and button up odds and ends... i honestly will be surprised if its done in the next 8 months. I got alot of work to do when I get it back and parts cost some serious $$$..
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
okay so I have chosen to go with a Precision 6265 turbo with aa 96 ar t4 divided vband exhaust housing. For the wastegate setup I have chosen to do dual 38mm wastegate.

Wastegates: Since I am running the Titan headers backwards and the collectors face the front of the motor I will have a 38mm wastegate intergrated to the collector of each header. (I choose 38mm wastegates because in comparrison to buying one giant 60 or 66mm wastegate it is still cheaper. It also allows will be able to regulate more compared to a 60 or 66.) I will then run a crossover from the passenger side to the driverside and it will merge together to a t4 inlet flange. I will locate my turbo to the vecinity of where the AC compressor would be. I hope this will allow me to leave the radiator in the front under the hood. I will still use and inline 12v remote pump (made by Maziere) because it will assist the stock water pump and flow 55 gpm on its on. The reason I am doing a external pump as well as keeping the OEM one is I will try to use a Chevy radiator that has a dimension of 19" tall and 21" wide (including end tanks) because it is compact. The inlets and outlets of the radiato will be cut off and plated over. I will have 2x 12an fittings welded onto the radiator for the inlet and outlet hoses. I may also have 2 6 or 8an bungs welded to the inle and outlet sides of the radiator to serve as coolaant inlet and return lines for the turbo. It should have a good cooling capacity but to be sure I want to add the external 12v water pump to circulate coolant faster and to aid the cooling process.
 

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Sick build project. Everyone is also waiting to get the details of VK to 6spd transmission mounting. Only a few postings on here have glossed over that—none done in detail.

I've got a ghetto-rat-rod z31 drift project going on right now. Trying to get it done with about 150hp and a total budget less than the budget of your cage!
 
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