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Recently I began to notice some vibration in the front and rear while braking so I decided to take the truck into the dealer today. Net, the front and rear rotors were warped...at 4,000 miles, with 1k from a trip that we just made this past weekend with mostly highway driving and very little braking. They machined the fronts but I have to go back to do the rears. However, I'm not sure I'm happy with the fact that they were machined and not replaced. Clearly, there is a problem with the build quality of the rotors if they warp in 3,000 miles.

Not a good day for me guys... :crying:

Karl
 

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karlconnell said:
Recently I began to notice some vibration in the front and rear while braking so I decided to take the truck into the dealer today. Net, the front and rear rotors were warped...at 4,000 miles, with 1k from a trip that we just made this past weekend with mostly highway driving and very little braking. They machined the fronts but I have to go back to do the rears. However, I'm not sure I'm happy with the fact that they were machined and not replaced. Clearly, there is a problem with the build quality of the rotors if they warp in 3,000 miles.

Not a good day for me guys... :crying:

Karl
very sorry to hear karl i hope this is an isolated incident i traded my ford in because of some of the same quality issues and if this titan turnes out the same way i will be very dissappointed. i have noticed some faint vibration but disregarded the rotors warping but i will take heed to your warning and mishap with your truck. please keep us posted and maybe you should call
1-800-nissan -1 and voice your complaint i would, dam you nissan dont do this to us :boxing:
 

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This warped rotor thing was a big problem with early Tundras (mine had 2 sets of rotors replaced).

Don't accept machined rotors. That's baloney on a new truck. It's a warranty issue at this point, and you should insist on new ones.

Make DARN sure that the wheels in the front are torqued to factory specs. The early Tundras were coming from the factory with the rims over-torqued, which will almost always warp your rotors.

Also, when they put on new rotors, make sure they replace the pads as well.

HS
 

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huh sounds like a problem some people have whith Isuzus. I know alot of books and such say that lugnut torque on Troopers should be 90ft-lb. That is downright untrure, its 65ft-lb. I would suspect this is much the same deal. i would look in your owners manual for the lug nut torque and loosen all the lugnuts then torque them to that spec. Good Luck
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Half Shovel said:
This warped rotor thing was a big problem with early Tundras (mine had 2 sets of rotors replaced).

Don't accept machined rotors. That's baloney on a new truck. It's a warranty issue at this point, and you should insist on new ones.

Make DARN sure that the wheels in the front are torqued to factory specs. The early Tundras were coming from the factory with the rims over-torqued, which will almost always warp your rotors.

Also, when they put on new rotors, make sure they replace the pads as well.HS
I thought I recalled hearing that about the early Tundra's as well. What would you say to the dealership and Nissan to argue for a new set. My concern is that it's a temporary bandaid fix and can't possibly last over the long haul. Particularly, for what I need my truck to do (i.e., stop almost 12k lbs of moving truck and rv).

Karl
 

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karlconnell said:
Recently I began to notice some vibration in the front and rear while braking so I decided to take the truck into the dealer today. Net, the front and rear rotors were warped...at 4,000 miles, with 1k from a trip that we just made this past weekend with mostly highway driving and very little braking. They machined the fronts but I have to go back to do the rears. However, I'm not sure I'm happy with the fact that they were machined and not replaced. Clearly, there is a problem with the build quality of the rotors if they warp in 3,000 miles.

Not a good day for me guys... :crying:

Karl
Warped rotors are common with Fords & Chevys. Here is what alot of them turn to after replacing 2 or 3 sets of OEM rotors:

http://www.appliedrotortechnology.com/

If this becomes a common problem, maybe we can get a group rate, like the guys from the Ford forums have.
 

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I don't think the owner of a new 30K truck should have to be looking for aftermarket rotors, just so they won't vibrate.

I simply told my dealer that I expect this vehicle to work as designed when it's new, and when it's under warranty, and that having "new" rotors machined to fix a warping problem that clearly must have been caused by something at the factory, is unacceptable to me. I made it clear that I would only accept new rotors and that I would persist until that was the case.

My Toyota dealer was more than accomodating, and I didn't have any problems (Toyota City, in the Twin Cities). That dealer was always very good to me and always solved problems I had without ever trying to go the "cheap" route.

I hope you have the same luck!

By the way, I think 65lbs for lug nut torque is asking for a wheel to fall off (IMHO). 90-100ft/lbs is typical for aluminum rims.

HS
 

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Karl,

Sorry to hear about your brake rotor issue. I have a feeling that you had a one time issue. I've used loaners to tow my trailer over 600 miles and never had any rotor broblems.

As far as turning vs. replacing, you will have to read your warranty booklet in your truck to see what you are due for repalcement vs. repair.

Now, I will say that turning rotors is fine, as long as they are turned correctly.... Slow, Small cuts until true and they will be fine. It just doesn't always happen that way.
 

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I'll have to check but I believe Nissan specs 98 foot pounds. That seems excessive to me. But if all the lugs were tightened to the same torque (be it 65, 98, or 150) the rotors wouldn't warp. It is only when some lugs are tighter than others that warping occurs.
 

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mepr said:
huh sounds like a problem some people have whith Isuzus. I know alot of books and such say that lugnut torque on Troopers should be 90ft-lb. That is downright untrure, its 65ft-lb. I would suspect this is much the same deal. i would look in your owners manual for the lug nut torque and loosen all the lugnuts then torque them to that spec. Good Luck
I traded in my Isuzu Trooper and can also confirm that the torque rate was 65/ft. lbs. I used to work in a tire mounting shop and they had the torque requirements for all vehicles posted on a chart. The Trooper was by far one of the lowest (actually, there were a few vehicles below 60/ft. lbs).

The problem that I encountered with my own Trooper as well as customers who brought their's in was the fact that if you torque the wheel down over the recommended value, it caused several problems.

My main problem is when I would get my tires rotated, balanced, or repaired, the shop that would do it would just air gun them on and when I went to remove the wheels to do brake work or whatever, a few of the studs would snap off. This was due to them gunning on the lugnuts without regards to torque. From my experience, gunning on lugnuts all the way down probably puts the torque in the 100-140/ft. lb range which is too much.

Lugnuts should always be hand torqued down to avoid such issues as this and doing any possible damage to the rotors.
 

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Well I have heard of the Tundra's rotor problem on a Toyota board. Someone mentioned that Ford and Chevy had premature warping, now I can tell you that the Dodge Dakota has the same issue. Don't know why this seems to be such a problem.
 

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problems when an impact wrench is used & don’t trust shops to reff. toque spec. Often one setting fits all in many shops & this will not only warp rotors but trash lug studs. After pressing 4 out from over tightening & cross threading no impact allowed.
 

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Don't our Titans use Bosch brakes? Bosch is a very highly respected vehicle part manufacturer. Hmmm. Maybe Nissan should of had Brembo make our brakes.

BTW, I went through the whole Tundra rotor warping problem and they only turned them for me. Then again it was at 35k miles. I wasn't happy about it, especially since I am very easy on my brakes and had only towed a boat a couple of times...approx 2500-3000 lbs is all. I hope this rotor warping doesn't become an issue on our Titans <fingers crossed>
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Derwud said:
Karl,

Sorry to hear about your brake rotor issue. I have a feeling that you had a one time issue. I've used loaners to tow my trailer over 600 miles and never had any rotor broblems.

As far as turning vs. replacing, you will have to read your warranty booklet in your truck to see what you are due for repalcement vs. repair.

Now, I will say that turning rotors is fine, as long as they are turned correctly.... Slow, Small cuts until true and they will be fine. It just doesn't always happen that way.
Ya, I don't think this is a "across the board" problem either, or we would have heard from others out there that have more miles on their Titan's than I do. It's probably just a defective set or it could be that the wheels were torqued incorrectly like others have said. I guess that makes me even more disappointed that they were machined and not replaced.

Thanks for the comments guys and congrats again Darryl.

Karl
 

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Warped or deformed rotors are never a good thing. There are many instances with new vehicles (or new rotors) that when the rotors go bad the source of the problem was that the rotors were not seasoned properly. With a new vehicle everybody is so concerned with the engine break-in, little or no thought is given to the brakes. The tendency is to baby the motor but to use the brakes in a normal manner.

Karl, I would have nissan check to make sure the hub and the wheel flange are still good and to make sure the brakes are not dragging on the rotors. The odds of all four rotors being bad have got to be way out there.

Here's a good article on warped rotors If you have the time it's worth the read!

Suggested Rotor Seasoning by Baer Brakes
 

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Half Shovel said:
This warped rotor thing was a big problem with early Tundras (mine had 2 sets of rotors replaced).
My Tundra went through 3 sets of rotors. I finally traded it in because of the brake vibrations.

Listen to speedtrip about seasoning new rotors and bedding new pads - Stoptech and Baer are very good sources of info for brake systems.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
speedtrip said:
Karl, I would have nissan check to make sure the hub and the wheel flange are still good and to make sure the brakes are not dragging on the rotors. The odds of all four rotors being bad have got to be way out there.
Thanks Speedtrip...some great info. I have always been conscious about seasoning the brakes as well. And I do agree that the odds are to small to effect all 4 rotors.

I called two other dealers (service managers and shop foreman) and they said it is Nissan's policy to machine the rotors in these types of instances first. The thing I don't like about that is you still don't know the cause. I have thought about the pads dragging on the rotors but I would think that many others would be having the same issue and that I would be getting worse gas mileage than others as well, and I'm not. I'm going to take it in next Wed to have them do the rears and see if that could be the cause however. :crying:

Karl
 

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Hopefully Karl this is an isolated incident. I've got over 5500 hard miles on mine and so far not one bit of brake vibration at any speed. I would guess your wheels probably weren't torqued evenly at the factory. #@it happens I guess.
 

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Albert1234 said:
I'll have to check but I believe Nissan specs 98 foot pounds. That seems excessive to me.
Lugnut torque specs are based on the strenght of the wheel studs. What size/thread pitch are Titan wheel studs?

65 ft-lbs is a common value for M12x1.25 wheel studs - I would hope the Titan's studs are larger than M12.



98 ft-lbs is the correct spec -
 
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