[55mike]

I will be doing some towing with my (non BT) 2007 CC, 2wd. Currently the plan is to move across the country from Florida with my 18' car hauler (open trailer) and my 55 Chevy loaded on. The total weight of the trailer/car will be 4900 lbs. I've towed this combo one other time about 300 miles (150 miles each way) with no issues. However, with this move, and many more hours of driving, I decided to beef up a few things.
First I installed a Bosch electric transmission temp gauge in the (blank) 4x4 switch spot. A few pointers... pull the radio-dash bezel out (I just got a hold of it with my fingernails along the top and gave it a tug.. came right out. This will allow access to the back-side of the round button. There is a clip along the top and the plug will pop right out. Using a 2" hole saw, I carefully cut a perfect 2" hole and with a tiny bit of hand filing, got the gauge to pressure fit right in. Popped the plug with gauge back in the dash, wired to a 12v switched source (I found the fuse panel on the far right side to work). I grounded it using one of the radio mount screws. The switch wire was fished down by the A/C drain hose, to the transmission.

Ordered a PML pan with 1/8 NPT hole for the sensor from Burtman Industries. Wow what a nice piece. The quality is outstanding !!! Using a lift (I wouldn't want to do this job on the ground.. just say'n), I drained fluid (100K miles on this truck). the fluid was bright red, and looked fine. Pulling the pan was almost a disaster. I should've let it drain more. When I pulled the final bolts, I almost got a nice hot fluid bath. Luckily, I didn't dump it on my face. I did measure the amount of fluid both drained, and poured out of the pan. For me, that was right at 5 qts. The PML pan adds 3.5 qts (more than stock). This means I needed about 8.5 qts to get the level correct. I used Valvoline MaxLife ATF. This stuff came highly recommended and certainly does cover Nissan J, K, or S requirements. (After driving it about 10 miles I ended up adding a bit more to get it perfect).

I also changed the rear gear oil with Mobil-1 75-140 Synthetic. When I drained it, the original oil looked like new.. oh well.. guess it was still smart to do. It took about 2.5 qts. A tip.... don't think you'll just stick the bottle up to the fill hole and squeeze.. get a good funnel. Dang what a mess I made of what should've been the easiest part of the job.!

Finally I changed the oil with some semi-synthetic 10-30. I have been using 5-30 M1, but, I got a smoking deal on this stuff.. and being the cheap-azz I am, and knowing I'll be towing in the heat of the summer, I reasoned the 10-30 will be fine. :smile:

 

[Rear Axle Seal]

I have deep PML pan too. Never got hot after it was installed. I even took off the Trucool aux tranny cooler afterward. That extra 3.5 quarts is a huge increase and only brings it close to what the Tundra holds. The pan does a great job of dissipating heat. Much better than flat steel one. I just flat towed a 1977 F-250 from Missouri. But that was in February. I have been convinced that a thicker viscosity oil in heat is actually not better like I always thought. 5-30 is better when it is hot. Or even 0-30. Check your brakes and U joints on drive shaft before you head out.


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[all torque]

I will be doing some towing with my (non BT) 2007 CC, 2wd. Currently the plan is to move across the country from Florida with my 18' car hauler (open trailer) and my 55 Chevy loaded on. The total weight of the trailer/car will be 4900 lbs. I've towed this combo one other time about 300 miles (150 miles each way) with no issues. However, with this move, and many more hours of driving, I decided to beef up a few things.
First I installed a Bosch electric transmission temp gauge in the (blank) 4x4 switch spot. A few pointers... pull the radio-dash bezel out (I just got a hold of it with my fingernails along the top and gave it a tug.. came right out. This will allow access to the back-side of the round button. There is a clip along the top and the plug will pop right out. Using a 2" hole saw, I carefully cut a perfect 2" hole and with a tiny bit of hand filing, got the gauge to pressure fit right in. Popped the plug with gauge back in the dash, wired to a 12v switched source (I found the fuse panel on the far right side to work). I grounded it using one of the radio mount screws. The switch wire was fished down by the A/C drain hose, to the transmission.

Ordered a PML pan with 1/8 NPT hole for the sensor from Burtman Industries. Wow what a nice piece. The quality is outstanding !!! Using a lift (I wouldn't want to do this job on the ground.. just say'n), I drained fluid (100K miles on this truck). the fluid was bright red, and looked fine. Pulling the pan was almost a disaster. I should've let it drain more. When I pulled the final bolts, I almost got a nice hot fluid bath. Luckily, I didn't dump it on my face. I did measure the amount of fluid both drained, and poured out of the pan. For me, that was right at 5 qts. The PML pan adds 3.5 qts (more than stock). This means I needed about 8.5 qts to get the level correct. I used Valvoline MaxLife ATF. This stuff came highly recommended and certainly does cover Nissan J, K, or S requirements. (After driving it about 10 miles I ended up adding a bit more to get it perfect).

I also changed the rear gear oil with Mobil-1 75-140 Synthetic. When I drained it, the original oil looked like new.. oh well.. guess it was still smart to do. It took about 2.5 qts. A tip.... don't think you'll just stick the bottle up to the fill hole and squeeze.. get a good funnel. Dang what a mess I made of what should've been the easiest part of the job.!

Finally I changed the oil with some semi-synthetic 10-30. I have been using 5-30 M1, but, I got a smoking deal on this stuff.. and being the cheap-azz I am, and knowing I'll be towing in the heat of the summer, I reasoned the 10-30 will be fine.

We might be slapping hands. I'm moving from SoCal to Florida in couple of weeks. I also did a few things to get my Titan ready for the tow across country. I didn't get a chance to do the PML pan but I did install a Stillen radiator. I hope it helps keep my tranny nice and cool as well as the engine.

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[dkmura]

I've had my PML tranny pan since 2012 and been pleased with it's performance. Between the extra capacity and Redline tranny fluid, I've towed across the country with my 24' enclosed racecar trailer many times.

 

[Jason B]

I have deep PML pan too. Never got hot after it was installed. I even took off the Trucool aux tranny cooler afterward. That extra 3.5 quarts is a huge increase and only brings it close to what the Tundra holds. The pan does a great job of dissipating heat. Much better than flat steel one. I just flat towed a 1977 F-250 from Missouri. But that was in February. I have been convinced that a thicker viscosity oil in heat is actually not better like I always thought. 5-30 is better when it is hot. Or even 0-30. Check your brakes and U joints on drive shaft before you head out.

PML deep pan works great. I tow some heavy loads and there is no issue I have.

Bypassing the radiator in the summer keeps things cooler, but in the winter (depending on your location) your transmission will not work properly, because it requires the fluid to be warm.

The best upgrade is the finned deep pan.

I have the PML pan and love it.

Temperature once installed has never waivered and I've climbed a lot of hills where other friend's trucks heat started climbing quickly.

It's a whole two inches deeper than the OEM one.

I've sold a ton, I mean a TON of these over the years. They are one great way to protect your investment and keep your tranny lasting. Most people buying these don't even tow, because they know what can happen. (I added a few more quotes from another transmission thread I just posted on )

Burtman Industries PML Transmission Pan, ORDER LINK