[osiris10012]

What would you all choose between the following. Regear my T to 3.73's or remove my body lift, drop the 5100's to bottom perch and go to 33's. Regearing is very expensive ($1400 just for parts after shipping). My 325/60-20's make it drive pretty bad on the highway due to it riding right on the shift point at 55mph. Pic of my current set up.

 

[Hot_Titan]

I say go with 4.10s

I have 35s now. Re-gearing to 4.10s that way when I need new tires I'll be good for 37s.

Truck already gets horrible mileage. What's another loss of a mpg or two?

Oh and while you're doing the gears you can put in a truetrac, that's my plan anyways.

 

[osiris10012]

I say go with 4.10s

I have 35s now. Re-gearing to 4.10s that way when I need new tires I'll be good for 37s.

Truck already gets horrible mileage. What's another loss of a mpg or two?

Oh and while you're doing the gears you can put in a truetrac, that's my plan anyways.

Lol. That actually crossed my mind for the exact same reason. Thing that sucks is I just got these tires so it will be quite awhile until new tires will be needed. If I do regear I plan to stick to the 3.73's. I think they would still work great with 37's. I recently found out 3.73's are about 300 rpm higher with 35's compared to stock and 3.36 big tow gears.

 

[GalaxyPro4X11]

Lol. That actually crossed my mind for the exact same reason. Thing that sucks is I just got these tires so it will be quite awhile until new tires will be needed. If I do regear I plan to stick to the 3.73's. I think they would still work great with 37's. I recently found out 3.73's are about 300 rpm higher with 35's compared to stock and 3.36 big tow gears.

I'm also contemplating a change to 3.73 for a little more get up an go.

Did you mean 300 rpm more with 35's an 3.73 over 35's an 3.36?

 

[AZPRO4X]

If you were to spend $1-$2k to regear it wouldn't make any sense to only go up to 3.73's. These things would of better off coming with 4.10's from the factor, heck Tundra's have 4.30's.
4.10's would be just fine with 33's & great with 35's. Gobbs of torque off the line

 

[dubyam]

The Tundra doesn't have the transmission gearing of the Titan, though. That's the key to these trucks and their seemingly high diff ratios. The 3.36 is, at the wheel, essentially the same final drive ratio as a traditional transmission with either 3.73s or 4.11s, if I understand correctly.

If your diffs are in good shape, I can't imagine gears and install kits costing $700 per axle, but maybe it's been too long since i bought gears. But if you like the truck's stance, and you like the way it performs other than on the highway at speed, regearing will solve the itch and keep the things you like. If you go back to 33s, the chance is pretty high you'll end up gearing and going back up at some point in the future, if you're like most folks.

 

[Lee-the-Impaler]

I'd go with 3.73s.. that's on my master list....and a toggle activated air locker..lol

 

[Hot_Titan]

I'm doing 4.10s and a truetrac, in the next few days I'll let ya know!

 

[Jspawn80]

I currently had the option to make the switch to 3.73's as my diff was rebuilt last week but i kept my 4.10's, so much torque. It takes a little getting used to at first. If you do alot of highway driving you might not like them tho since my truck seems sluggish at those speeds.

 

[osiris10012]

I'm also contemplating a change to 3.73 for a little more get up an go.

Did you mean 300 rpm more with 35's an 3.73 over 35's an 3.36?

From what I understand the 300 rpm higher is with 3.73's and 35's compared to stock tires and big tow gears. I just asked to make sure. So I will let you know for sure. He said he runs 2300 rpm at 70 mph. Most say the stock big tow set up is 2000 rpm at 70 mph.

I'd go with 3.73s.. that's on my master list....and a toggle activated air locker..lol

I would love a locker too, but just can't spend that much coin right now.

I'm doing 4.10s and a truetrac, in the next few days I'll let ya know!

Sweet thanks.

The Tundra doesn't have the transmission gearing of the Titan, though. That's the key to these trucks and their seemingly high diff ratios. The 3.36 is, at the wheel, essentially the same final drive ratio as a traditional transmission with either 3.73s or 4.11s, if I understand correctly.

If your diffs are in good shape, I can't imagine gears and install kits costing $700 per axle, but maybe it's been too long since i bought gears. But if you like the truck's stance, and you like the way it performs other than on the highway at speed, regearing will solve the itch and keep the things you like. If you go back to 33s, the chance is pretty high you'll end up gearing and going back up at some point in the future, if you're like most folks.

They aren't cheap for trucks. Plus the install kits add a chunk to it. Here are the ones I am looking at
https://ruggedrocksoffroad.com/niss...-60251.html?osCsid=1fagtm7ti6h0kg1cmcjcv09tp6

 

[osiris10012]

Just got an update on the 3.73's. The 2300 rpm is at 70 mph and running a 275/65-20 (34.1"). All stock big tow is 2000 rpm at 70 mph and stock non big tow is 1700 rpm at 70 mph. From the sounds of it 3.73's and 35's would be perfect to run about the same rpm range as a stock big tow rig.