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So from what I have read, the Titan does not utilize an EGR valve, but rather leaves the exhaust valves open for the first part of the intake stroke. If the cats go back and start coming apart, they suck back into the motor, thus blowing it up. My local dealer mentioned they shouldn't go bad till about 80,000 miles and will throw a check engine light before they do. The guys at UpRev mentioned they can go bad at any mileage and it would be a good idea to get some long tubes right away. I have 80k emissions warranty, 60k on the power train, and if my motor tanks at 75k miles, am I going to be covered on the motor, or just the catalytic converters? I am seriously debating long tubes ASAP because of this! Opinions...?

David
 

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mine went at 63k and nascarjodys titan died because his cats sucked back in.
 

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Those who've had them go bad, did you have major engine mods? I ask because I've owned MANY vehicles with well over 100k, and I've never had a cat go bad.
 

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If you going to get some long tubes be sure you have uprev to check out the AFR you can use short tubes just move the cats down stream of the headers thats what I did and I havent had any problems when I found out about cats going bad and killing motors I wanted to fix the problem asap... I agree with uprev the cats can give out at any time and sometimes wont throw a cel till its way to late.
 

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My passenger side went out at about 60k. Got so clogged the truck wouldn't putt around but at 5mph. Yes, 5mph. I limped it to the dealership somehow. All covered under 80k warranty, but still...scared the sh*t outta me.

Edit: Also wanted to throw in that I bought the truck used @ 50k miles. Never sputtered or mis-fired once. The symptoms start to show pretty early, I made a thread about it about a month ago. I can say however, that the light does come on and blinks three times indicating misfires in the cylinders. That's when you especially need to get it fixed ASAP. Dealership said they've never heard of a cat going out @ 60k, and questioned what fuel mixture/octane the original owner was running in it.
 

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Let me ask a question how is it that your cats or pieces of them can get sucked up when the motor is only exhaling the whole time? Correct me if I am wrong but the motors exhaust valves are closed when the piston is on its way back down the cylinder thus there should be no vacuum pulling the pieces up into the motor right? Are you saying that after detonation the exhaust valve stays open while the piston travels down the cylinder then back up to push the old exhaust gases out?
 

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So its believed that the exhaust valve stays open for enough time and has enough vacuum force created by the descending piston to pull those chunks of cat through the exhaust manifold up into your valve and cylinder before the next exhaust push or stroke? I wouldn't think it would be possible but I cant say that I have never been wrong.:huh:
 

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Yes it is possible. I have seen it several times. Either the fuel pump get weak & doesnt run the proper fuel pressure & runs the motor lean burning the cats up or the IPDM goes out & loads the cats with fuel & when it finally starts the cat gets extreamly hot quick & burns the cat material. Then soon after it starts sucking the cat material back into the motor. Quick way to find out if the cat material has gotten back in the motor is to take a small oil sample & see if it feels like there is sand in it. There is no set mileage that the cats go bad. Just like anything they can burn up at anytime or never.
 
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It is apparently fine grit, not big chunks, as there is a fairly fine mesh screen on the cats. I am thinking something of the consistency of cement dust? If you Google, you will find they are having this problem with Altimas and Maximas also.
 

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I am sorry to resurrect this thread but I may have an issue here. I have a 2010 that this may have happened to.

I was on my way to graduation and it stalled out on acceleration. It was running but just coasting at idle when I limped in. It would not idle good either. It would start but I could smell something burning hot. Finally it started back but it was like it was running on 2 cyls. After a few minutes it was back to idling better but not revving at all. Then as a few minutes passed I popped the airbox lid and it immediately ran better but still crappy. There was a severe lag in throttle response as well.

I had my father in law bring me his truck to get where I needed to be. He drove it home and said that it would not go over 30 mph. I got it towed from there to the dealership.

There the service manager said that it drove in the parking lot "just fine" but then it popped a code as he was finishing his test drive. They have not looked at it since...

Am I screwed???

What are my options if this is the problem???

Can I request a new vehicle???

I didnt pay $41,000 for a truck with a rebuilt engine if this is the case, you know?
 

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I am sorry to resurrect this thread but I may have an issue here. I have a 2010 that this may have happened to.

I was on my way to graduation and it stalled out on acceleration. It was running but just coasting at idle when I limped in. It would not idle good either. It would start but I could smell something burning hot. Finally it started back but it was like it was running on 2 cyls. After a few minutes it was back to idling better but not revving at all. Then as a few minutes passed I popped the airbox lid and it immediately ran better but still crappy. There was a severe lag in throttle response as well.

I had my father in law bring me his truck to get where I needed to be. He drove it home and said that it would not go over 30 mph. I got it towed from there to the dealership.

There the service manager said that it drove in the parking lot "just fine" but then it popped a code as he was finishing his test drive. They have not looked at it since...

Am I screwed???

What are my options if this is the problem???

Can I request a new vehicle???

I didnt pay $41,000 for a truck with a rebuilt engine if this is the case, you know?
So what the outcome on this? What code did the truck throw? I'm interested because I just recently got my 2010 Pro-4X and I wouldn't want this issue popping up on me. Granted it only has 1022 miles on it but like you said ... I didn't buy a $45,000 truck to put a new engine in it.
 

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this thread made me order LT headers today. its freaking me out!
 

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So what the outcome on this? What code did the truck throw? I'm interested because I just recently got my 2010 Pro-4X and I wouldn't want this issue popping up on me. Granted it only has 1022 miles on it but like you said ... I didn't buy a $45,000 truck to put a new engine in it.
Luckily no2010 with this yet. Mine was an air flow meter going out. They fixed it and its fine now but you talk about pissed off, I was!!!!
 

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When they replace the headers on the Titan (mine is a 2004, had the cracked header issue) do they replace the cats too?
 

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Yes, they will replace the cats if they are replacing the factory manifolds. If you are replacing the factory manifolds with aftermarket headers then I would suggest you replace the cats with high flow cats.
 

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To kinda blanket all the questions in this thread. If your cat's go bad within the 8 year or 80,000mile federal emission time frame and cause your engine to go bad you will get new cat's and remanufactured engine. If you have altered your exhaust system before the cat, they can decline your warranty due to any/all aftermarket components will improve performance, thus taking your vehicle from the intended operating parameter that it was designed for. Unfortunatly not all states will allow you to run LT's, but then if you work on cars alot just put the factory stuff on to get your smog check done and put the LT's on. Hopefully this will help with alot of the questions that are in this thread. PM me for further questions.
 
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