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Okay, this will sound like a dumb question, but I am reading about folks adding a 2" leveling kit, taking off mud flaps, etc so they can run a bigger tire and then they end up with 33" tires.

I have 2015 SV 4x4 with 20" wheels and every time I get new tires Firestone just puts on street P275/60R20 which is a 33" tire so I feel like 33" is the "standard" tire.
If 33" fit that "easily" and I added a leveling kit and took off the mud flaps I think I should be able to upgrade to 35". But from reading this site it sounds like 35" are a lot tricker than that and most folks just recommend 33" unless you want to get into some serious work.

I am wondering bc I was thinking of adding 1" leveling kit and Bilstein at 1" so I could run bigger tires, but if I am already running 33"s I am not sure it is buying me anything? Do AT tires need more clearance? I would have to do more than that to run 35" easily right?

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All tires are somewhat different. Go to the manufactures spec and read what they say about a specific tire and size.
Also, measure your tires. Just because you think you have 33" tires they are likely somewhat smaller. They may actually be 32" tall.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
All tires are somewhat different. Go to the manufactures spec and read what they say about a specific tire and size.
Also, measure your tires. Just because you think you have 33" tires they are likely somewhat smaller. They may actually be 32" tall.
Dang. You are right. Web says they are 33, but they are actually 32 with my tape measure.

Based on the clearance on top I think I could still get by with AT 33" though right?

I am getting an off-road bumper welded on soon and they are asking if I have any kind of body lift. I am trying to figure out if I need to get a lift done before putting the bumper on.
But if I can run AT 33's with no lift that would be my preferred route.
 

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Having run the tape on my setup numerous times, I can tell you a few things. I have a 2011 Pro4X CC, for reference, and OEM tires were 275/70r18, and sat right at 33" diameter (despite the spec being 33.2). On the truck, they sat at 32" height under load. Recently I put new shocks and a total of 3" front, 2.5" rear lift on my truck. I measured the wheel arches and that's within 1/8th of an inch of what I actually added to the truck, so I'm comfortable saying the lift was as described. After lifting the truck, I moved up to a set of 295/70r18 tires on the OEM Pro4X rims. Manufacturer specs on those tires are 34.4" diameter, and 12" section width, 9.5" tread width. The shop which installed them did an alignment during the install, but did not adjust my PRG UCAs so I'm a little out on camber (within spec, but visibly slanted out at the top) and barely in on caster, as well. Toe is set within specs. With that setup (which I plan to remedy by adjusting my UCAs myself and getting it realigned) I had to pull the mud flaps and still have ever so slight rub of the inside rear of the tire at the frame rail at full lock. I suspect fixing the camber and caster will resolve that frame rail rub, as it will pull the pivot forward just slightly. I've seen some Titans where the mud flaps could stay on with 295/70r18s, but mine had to come off. At the closest point to the fender, I have about .5" of clearance, and my flaps took up more than .5" in that spot. I highly doubt I could fit 35s on my truck with just 3" of lift, based on what I'm seeing here. I might get one of the smaller diameter 35s to fit (there are some which spec 34.5-34.6" diameter) but with the added width of 12.5-12.6" versus 12" at the section, and more importantly the additional tread width of .4-.8" (depending on manufacturer), I suspect I'd have to at least run a pretty hefty trim on the pinch weld. I'll probably end up trimming that and reshaping my fender liner as I'd like to swap out to some 0 offset 18x9" wheels, which would put my tire edge about 1" further out from it's current -23 offset OEM wheel position. At that point, I'll have a better understanding of whether 35s would fit, but it will be tight for sure.

I think some folks like a lot of clearance on their tires, and so they add level or lift and go with 33s. And bear in mind, in the Gen1 Titans, not all OEM tires were 33s. Many Titans came with 265/70r18 tires, which are rated at 32.5-32.6" diameter, and would likely show a loaded height of 31.5-ish. Moving to a true 33 (like a 275/70r18, which was the OEM size on the Pro4X) would give a bit of a bump in tire size to go with the lift for those folks.

To answer your question above, without knowing what sort of offroad bumper you're getting and how it fits in the fenderwell area, I'd say you will not need a lift for 33" AT tires. You could go with 275/70r18 or possible even 305/65r18 depending on your wheel offset and where that bumper sits in relation to the OEM bumper at the fenderwell.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks @dubyam Tons of great information. I appreciate the thorough response.

I will probably go with the 33" to keep it simple. I prefer a fuller wheel well so can possibly get by with no leveling!
 

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I would suggest a lift. I have a 3" RC lift and just put on 285/70/R18s. Nitto says they are 33.98" but on the truck they are barely 33.25". They do not rub but I can tell you if they were even a 1/16" bigger, they would rub. I do have mud flaps on too, so maybe without flaps you would be ok.
 

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Yeah - in almost all cases the lift supports articulation off road (or entering/existing the mall parking lot). Off-road, 33’s on a stock height and stock wheels will probably rub. With the lift and the proper offset, 33’s would be a great tire for all-out fun. I’ve lived with tires rubbing the frame, the sway bar, the fenders, or the radius arms on trucks...when I was 17-18 years old. In my 40’s now...to old for that shiz.
 

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I can assure you that stock, 33s don't rub on my 2011 Pro4X. They were the OEM size. Ran 2 sets of them for 122k, much of which was rough use on my mountain deer lease and trails. Never rubbed anything but the ground.
 

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If your considering 35s you best stick close as possible to stock offset! 1 inch lvl may not be enough even for stock wheel offset. Be prepared to make some cuts to pinch weld and more. Possible interference at wheel locks not to mention slight incline and decline turns in parking lots. Annoying as hell. Can cause premature tire wear. Especially if your considering MTs.
 

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Okay, this will sound like a dumb question, but I am reading about folks adding a 2" leveling kit, taking off mud flaps, etc so they can run a bigger tire and then they end up with 33" tires.

I have 2015 SV 4x4 with 20" wheels and every time I get new tires Firestone just puts on street P275/60R20 which is a 33" tire so I feel like 33" is the "standard" tire.
If 33" fit that "easily" and I added a leveling kit and took off the mud flaps I think I should be able to upgrade to 35". But from reading this site it sounds like 35" are a lot tricker than that and most folks just recommend 33" unless you want to get into some serious work.

I am wondering bc I was thinking of adding 1" leveling kit and Bilstein at 1" so I could run bigger tires, but if I am already running 33"s I am not sure it is buying me anything? Do AT tires need more clearance? I would have to do more than that to run 35" easily right?

View attachment 547563
NISSAN Motorsports

Nissan Motorsports Performance Suspension Kit



(New in the Box) NISMO Titan coil over suspension kit, 2" lift to 2" drop. Includes four Bilstein shocks,(fronts are adjustable with threaded perch) front coil springs, front upper shock mounts, rear shackles and rear add-a-leaf. Compliant and great on the street or light off-roading. All hardware included. Seriously interested contact Rob at [email protected]

See details at: NISMO Performance | Nissan USA. $1150.00 Firm or better offer!!!
 

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NISSAN Motorsports

Nissan Motorsports Performance Suspension Kit



(New in the Box) NISMO Titan coil over suspension kit, 2" lift to 2" drop. Includes four Bilstein shocks,(fronts are adjustable with threaded perch) front coil springs, front upper shock mounts, rear shackles and rear add-a-leaf. Compliant and great on the street or light off-roading. All hardware included. Seriously interested contact Rob at [email protected]

See details at: NISMO Performance | Nissan USA. $1150.00 Firm or better offer!!!
You’ll need to verify if this kit will work on your year Titan! It’s good for 2004-2010 or possibly 2012.
 

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Nash, this isn't really a dumb question since there's a lot of different measurements that go into tire sizes that most people don't understand. Reading this thread, nobody is touching much on tire width & wheel offset. Everybody's concentrating on diameter. You also keep talking about "33's". Are you referring to flotation sizes or a close P-metric size? The common flotation size is 33-12.50-18/20/22/24, whatever the wheel size is. That is a standard measurement of the tire itself. It's 33" tall & 12.5" wide. A P-metric tire that wide is going to have to be about 325 mm. Your 275's are considerably narrower. In many cases that's the difference in clearance. In order to get that wide tire on often you'll need aftermarket wheels. Then wheel offset comes into play, and possibly a lift. If you keep your tires on the narrower side you may be able to run a tire even a little taller than 33", but not the typical flotation sizes.
 
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